jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
if you have a fork lift you can use long tines through the back door with a plank across front door openings
james6546
Well-Known Member
Its a telehandler, not a forklift. I don't think the pallet tines are long enough to reach far enough in to lift it all up unfortunately.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Should hope not, I did that a month or so ago!
Think I will just lift it with straps!
Plan is to try to do it after work tonight, assuming nothing else comes up.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
You can lever up the rear tub with a good bar to get a board or metal pole underneith the floor, if you then only undoo the front mounts between the footwells of the bulkhead and the chassis at the chassis end and use a chain or a strap onto those mounts to lift the front end this will work, provinding the bulkhead isnt conpletely knackered.
Come to us for oils
Come to us for oils
james6546
Well-Known Member
You can lever up the rear tub with a good bar to get a board or metal pole underneith the floor, if you then only undoo the front mounts between the footwells of the bulkhead and the chassis at the chassis end and use a chain or a strap onto those mounts to lift the front end this will work, provinding the bulkhead isnt conpletely knackered.
Come to us for oils
Cool, thanks
Bulkhead is solid, surprisingly. Good idea, I will strap to those instead of through the windows. Or maybe both if I can get the straps the right length
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks
Bulkhead is solid, surprisingly. Good idea, I will strap to those instead of through the windows. Or maybe both if I can get the straps the right length
I wouldnt like lifting through the windows and risking bending the frames.
I did it the front mount and rear bar way on a few with 2 gantrys which was controllable
james6546
Well-Known Member
I wouldnt like lifting through the windows and risking bending the frames.
I did it the front mount and rear bar way on a few with 2 gantrys which was controllable
It will be a learning curve I reckon. I am struggling to find bars that looks strong enough at the mo.
Might have to leave the body outside, which isn't ideal...
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
The doors and bulhead are all the weight the rest you could amost pick up on your own
A bit of 4x2 box section 5mm would be ideal then its flat under the tub and is less likely to move
Hopefully you wont have to leave it outside for long
its stood outside most of its life wont hurt to do it now Ill be home in a month and can see what deal I can do on oils for you if you're not finished by then
james6546
Well-Known Member
The doors and bulhead are all the weight the rest you could amost pick up on your own
A bit of 4x2 box section 5mm would be ideal then its flat under the tub and is less likely to move
Hopefully you wont have to leave it outside for long
Ill be home in a month and can see what deal I can do on oils for you if you're not finished by then
Thank you.
Doubtful that it will be back together in a month, but miracles can happen!
james6546
Well-Known Member
It's off!!!
Got some much needed help from my mums neighbor Keith, didn't quite go as planned, but I am happy to announce that it is off without breaking anything or denting anything.
I couldn't lift with the front brackets as I had unbolted the wrong section and it stayed on the chassis, so we went through the windows.
Also I had forgotten to disconnect the EGR valve wiring, so I had to climb in through the back door and push the cables through while the body was suspended in the air!
My machine operating skills let me down and I couldn't disconnect the hydraulics on the bale grab, so we had to lift with that!
Hopefully should be able to crack on a bit now
The chassis is actually reasonable solid. I am toying with the idea of selling it, so if anyone is interested, let me know.
Got some much needed help from my mums neighbor Keith, didn't quite go as planned, but I am happy to announce that it is off without breaking anything or denting anything.
I couldn't lift with the front brackets as I had unbolted the wrong section and it stayed on the chassis, so we went through the windows.
Also I had forgotten to disconnect the EGR valve wiring, so I had to climb in through the back door and push the cables through while the body was suspended in the air!
My machine operating skills let me down and I couldn't disconnect the hydraulics on the bale grab, so we had to lift with that!
Hopefully should be able to crack on a bit now
The chassis is actually reasonable solid. I am toying with the idea of selling it, so if anyone is interested, let me know.
james6546
Well-Known Member
No, it isn't. The crossmember is rotten, and there are 3 other holes and a bit of splitting of the plates near the back, and the box sectiony thing is a bit patchy, but other than that it isn't as bad as I thought it would be.
Still glad I am doing it though.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Bout time I updated this thread, not had time to work on it for a couple of weeks.
So today I managed to remove the fuel tank and most of the back axle components, just the drive shaft and the self leveling suspension thing to take off. Are the drive shaft bolts imperial? None of my spanners fit!
Amazingly the prehistoric Britpart shock absorbers still seem to work!
I have also finished primering the chassis and started painting it with enamel paint
Should have a whole coat of paint on the chassis by the end of the weekend I hope, and the rear axle should be removed.
It looks like it is leaking oil from the bolts on the rear diff, is that normal, or have I just put penetrating fluid on the bolts?!
So today I managed to remove the fuel tank and most of the back axle components, just the drive shaft and the self leveling suspension thing to take off. Are the drive shaft bolts imperial? None of my spanners fit!
Amazingly the prehistoric Britpart shock absorbers still seem to work!
I have also finished primering the chassis and started painting it with enamel paint
Should have a whole coat of paint on the chassis by the end of the weekend I hope, and the rear axle should be removed.
It looks like it is leaking oil from the bolts on the rear diff, is that normal, or have I just put penetrating fluid on the bolts?!
aaronmorris
Head's a shed
Propshaft?
They're 9/16
Although I've used 14mm spanners in the past.
I use one of these now which is quite handy.
LAND ROVER NEW PROPSHAFT NUT & BOLT TOOL SOCKET SPANNER 1/2" SQUARE DRIVE | eBay
They're 9/16
Although I've used 14mm spanners in the past.
I use one of these now which is quite handy.
LAND ROVER NEW PROPSHAFT NUT & BOLT TOOL SOCKET SPANNER 1/2" SQUARE DRIVE | eBay
james6546
Well-Known Member
Thought it was time for a bit of an update. I am cracking on, but have so much else on at the moment it is ridiculous.
Chassis is now painted, have to admit I am pretty pleased with the finish even though it is brushed on
Rear axle removed and started to strip down
Tow bar off. The plate on the top has a couple of big holes in it. I am wondering whether to just cut it off as I don't think it serves a purpose other than to stand on. Though I also don't think that my old style NAS towbar will fit the TD5 chassis, so may have to get a new one anyway.
Chassis is now painted, have to admit I am pretty pleased with the finish even though it is brushed on
Rear axle removed and started to strip down
Tow bar off. The plate on the top has a couple of big holes in it. I am wondering whether to just cut it off as I don't think it serves a purpose other than to stand on. Though I also don't think that my old style NAS towbar will fit the TD5 chassis, so may have to get a new one anyway.
james6546
Well-Known Member
Thanks, it has taken me freaking ages to get into all of the little gaps with the paint.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
Im back next week, if you want a hand pressing new bushes in or whatever let me know. although im probably going to KoV between 7th and 10th
although im probably going to KoV between 7th and 10th 
