jamesmartin said:
you can get a half chassis that includes rear tank out riggers
Click to expand...

I think I will need to take proper photos and a video of the chassis when I get everything off it. It looks very dodgy but seeing as it's the first one I've ever seen, it's difficult to judge what state it's in. I will definitely need a second opinion.
 
Mandy said:
Not quite sure how to judge the state of the chassis. The back end is completely rotten and often a big hole surrounded by paper thin rusted metal.
The outriggers look pretty rusty and full of holes too. I think a new chassis is probably the best option.
Click to expand...

Mandy said:
And so much caked mud, rust and oil...
Click to expand...

Get someone to help you roll it outside. Give it a good scrub with degreaser and pressure wash it.
That may blow some more holes in it. If not, go over it with a small hammer. Good metal will ring or bang. Rotten will cave in, or give a dull thud.
 
Will do that as soon as I get the chassis uncluttered.
I’ve taken a few rust photos but I think the picture will be clearer once the chassis is stripped.
 
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Mandy said:
View attachment 143259 View attachment 143260 View attachment 143261
Will do that as soon as I get the chassis uncluttered.
I’ve taken a few rust photos but I think the picture will be clearer once the chassis is stripped.
Click to expand...
A bit "Swiss cheesy" it seems, new chassis required perhaps.
It's the remaining thickness of the bits you can't see that can be a worry.
I've been helping a mate do a 1950 S1, all along the bottom of the side rails of the chassis were badly rusted from the inside out, looked ok in some places from outside.
 
Outriggers are the things that go first, if the main chassis rails are sound you can always fit new outriggers but don't make any premature decisions until you've been over every inch of that chassis with a fine tooth tapping hammer and a wire brush. Turboman is bang on, listen to the sound it makes when you tap it, if it sounds dull, it's too thin with rust.
 
Rails look ok, spend time getting any mud out and waxoiling inside. When you cut the outrigger off you will get a look at the chassis rail inside as the outrigger will come with a section of chassis side.

I see you have a remote servo. Mine had one but it was disconnected, I now have an S3 servo and master cylinder to get dual circuit brakes.
 
Extreedoc said:
Outriggers are the things that go first, if the main chassis rails are sound you can always fit new outriggers but don't make any premature decisions until you've been over every inch of that chassis with a fine tooth tapping hammer and a wire brush. Turboman is bang on, listen to the sound it makes when you tap it, if it sounds dull, it's too thin with rust.
Click to expand...

Rear crossmembers are a weak spot as well. But replacing those also gives a good opportunity to inspect inside the chassis legs.

rob1miles said:
Rails look ok, spend time getting any mud out and waxoiling inside. When you cut the outrigger off you will get a look at the chassis rail inside as the outrigger will come with a section of chassis side.

I see you have a remote servo. Mine had one but it was disconnected, I now have an S3 servo and master cylinder to get dual circuit brakes.
Click to expand...

The remote servos are quite good if they work, and can be rebuilt off the vehicle, assuming the seal and diaphragm kits are still available. It has been a few years since I did one.
 
Rubins4 said:
View attachment 142798 Having almost completed what you are now undertaking, I kick myself for not getting a set of these earlier in the process...
http://www.irwintools.co.nz/tools/bolt-extractors/bolt-grips
Click to expand...

I have those, very useful. getting the nut out of the socket can be interesting when it took a lot of effort to get it loose

you can also get sockets that grip just the flat edges of the bolts and not the corners. can't remember who makes them but I have a set.
 
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I've always fancied one of these:

But they are expsensive but I've now seen some home made ones on you tube so its giving me ideas:
 
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suburban said:
I have those, very useful. getting the nut out of the socket can be interesting when it took a lot of effort to get it loose

you can also get sockets that grip just the flat edges of the bolts and not the corners. can't remember who makes them but I have a set.
Click to expand...
The sockets you refer to are called "Single Hex", the ones that grip at the corners are "Double Hex" but the best ones are single hex, flank drive, the flats are slightly curved inward so that the point of contact is set back from the corner, so much less likely to round the corners off. Snap-On make them but there are many others copying the idea.
 
Extreedoc said:
The sockets you refer to are called "Single Hex", the ones that grip at the corners are "Double Hex" but the best ones are single hex, flank drive, the flats are slightly curved inward so that the point of contact is set back from the corner, so much less likely to round the corners off. Snap-On make them but there are many others copying the idea.
Click to expand...

these are the ones I meant (grip tite) they just have a piece that goes against the flat of the bolt

grip-tite-socket.jpg


http://www.griptitetools.com/Products/7-Pc-Socket-Set-38-Drive-Metric-43.htm
 
they are good, not as good as the ones @Rubins4 posted for the very stubborn bolts but better than standard sockets. haven't tried the snap on ones you mentioned. might look out for some but snap on is usually over what I spend for the amount of use my tools get.
 
100_1840.resized.JPG

Double hex on the left, what everybody thinks of when they think 'socket'. Single hex on the right, this is also a 'flank drive' socket but neither are Snap-On. Note the slight curve inward of the flats and the rounded corners which allow the pressure to come on the nut 'back' from the corner. I should think that most single hex sockets made now are some version of the flank drive idea. Success has many fathers etc...
 
Extreedoc said:
View attachment 143379
Double hex on the left, what everybody thinks of when they think 'socket'. Single hex on the right, this is also a 'flank drive' socket but neither are Snap-On. Note the slight curve inward of the flats and the rounded corners which allow the pressure to come on the nut 'back' from the corner. I should think that most single hex sockets made now are some version of the flank drive idea. Success has many fathers etc...
Click to expand...
Impact sockets are always, what we call here "six point", (single hex), if you have a really tight nut or bolt and try to use a "twelve point", (double hex), socket one of two things will happen, the socket will split open or the hexagon of the bolt/nut will lose its corners and round off.
For most jobs except for twelve point bolts and nuts, I have a good set of 1/2" and 3/4" drive impact sockets, (six point), that, if used with a rachet bar give all the benefits of a twelve point socket.
There are lots of innovative variants of the basic old socket spanner but the only ones I haven't managed to break are the impact type.
Had an apprentice years ago who managed to break a few ordinary twelve points from a hand socket set, before he realised they weren't made to be used with an Atlas Copco industrial grade impact gun.
 
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