angeloc
Well-Known Member
Ok getting the Gearbox tie rod off was easy - it looked fine - no signs of fatigue - I put a couple of strips of rubber extra in them to see what happens.
All back together and it is the same aaaarrrrggggghhhhhhh
I do notice that it's worse if the belly pan is off but its still there with it on.
Really flumuxed me this one. Probably going to take it to an Indie Landrover Specialist locally next week. Unless anyone on here can come up with something?
All back together and it is the same aaaarrrrggggghhhhhhh
I do notice that it's worse if the belly pan is off but its still there with it on.
Really flumuxed me this one. Probably going to take it to an Indie Landrover Specialist locally next week. Unless anyone on here can come up with something?
angeloc
Well-Known Member
Update
Took it to a fairly local indie and told him the story (thank goodness quotes are free or there would be an hours bill there!!!)
He said start it up and then said he heard a slight hunt at start up! Thinks it could be sensor wire related so he is going to hook it up on Testbook next week - told me he will let me stay and WE can spend the morning if needed going through it. Seems a good guy.
Fingers crossed. I took the Synergy off to take it up and put the Bosch Maf back - it was definitely a softer wobble after.
Took it to a fairly local indie and told him the story (thank goodness quotes are free or there would be an hours bill there!!!)
He said start it up and then said he heard a slight hunt at start up! Thinks it could be sensor wire related so he is going to hook it up on Testbook next week - told me he will let me stay and WE can spend the morning if needed going through it. Seems a good guy.
Fingers crossed. I took the Synergy off to take it up and put the Bosch Maf back - it was definitely a softer wobble after.
angeloc
Well-Known Member
Latest update - Indie guy hooked it up and could not find out exactly what is wrong but did identify that Low Pressure pump is down a little AND Injector no1 is over fueling!!! This was the recon one from City Electro Diesel so rang then and got to pop it over to them tomorrow for a test. Hopefully the simply sold me a dud injector so my fault never went away.
I have taken the injector out and will drive over in the morning.
I have taken the injector out and will drive over in the morning.
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teddywood1
Well-Known Member
good luck with that one Angeloc next time you take the hub nut of though leave your wheel on and prise out the centre and hopefully you will have a socket to get into the nut and still have the wife as I do pressing the brakes it just seems easier to do it that way
angeloc
Well-Known Member
Yes that's the way I was going to do it but the socket I had was too thick and do its diameter was too large to fit in the hole at the centre of the wheel. I had thought of grinding it down to make it slimmer but that would weaken it do my alternative method was used.
Hi Gents
This wobble problem with after market driver shafts is now a serious issue with me! Just been through 2 sets of new drive shafts ordered to fit 2003 TD4 from 2 seperate suppliers (JR and Island 4X4). Both sets produced a wobble. Dont bother looking for worn bearings or engine supports. Land Rover and me had a long chat about this and it transpires that there was a change to the design to IRD bearings or something just about 2003. Its all in the buttons inside the inner CV pot. They are mounted onto a ball jont so that they can move in 3 ways. This stops the wobble. Trouble is LR wont release the spec or the rights to make it to the after market chaps!! Dont know why. Any other type of drive shft will produce a low speed wobble. This wobble is very distructive on suppoprt bearings. If you have this wobble dont drive it!! Have not been able to source a drive shaft with this type of button. Someone must make em. All aftermarket suppliers will tell you their shafts fit a 2003 Td4 and the V56 but they dont. They are all designed to fit pre 2003 vehicles.
Hope this helps
Safeman
This wobble problem with after market driver shafts is now a serious issue with me! Just been through 2 sets of new drive shafts ordered to fit 2003 TD4 from 2 seperate suppliers (JR and Island 4X4). Both sets produced a wobble. Dont bother looking for worn bearings or engine supports. Land Rover and me had a long chat about this and it transpires that there was a change to the design to IRD bearings or something just about 2003. Its all in the buttons inside the inner CV pot. They are mounted onto a ball jont so that they can move in 3 ways. This stops the wobble. Trouble is LR wont release the spec or the rights to make it to the after market chaps!! Dont know why. Any other type of drive shft will produce a low speed wobble. This wobble is very distructive on suppoprt bearings. If you have this wobble dont drive it!! Have not been able to source a drive shaft with this type of button. Someone must make em. All aftermarket suppliers will tell you their shafts fit a 2003 Td4 and the V56 but they dont. They are all designed to fit pre 2003 vehicles.
Hope this helps
Safeman
angeloc
Well-Known Member
But I had it with the original shafts - I think my problem is a rogue injector. I can't go with the secret patent thing as something as fundamental as that would be big news. Are you sure that your chat with LR was with some one who knows and not the many who pretend to know stuff that doesn't even exist? They ate out there.
Be interesting to see what happens when you swap out your shafts for OEM ones - let us know please.
Cheers
Hi angeloc
Got the same problem and I suspected the IRD bearing. Spoke to Ken at Bell and LR technical. Theynboth siad the support bearing is a sloppy fit on the shaft. The test is does it leak oil passed the seal? LR also advised make up a plug guage about 0.002 up on the dia of the shaft, push it in the bearing and see how much the rolers move. If its alot then the bearing is toast. Sounds OK to me. So I tried it the rollers did not move. Its jsut a slopy fit on he shaft.
Cheers
Got the same problem and I suspected the IRD bearing. Spoke to Ken at Bell and LR technical. Theynboth siad the support bearing is a sloppy fit on the shaft. The test is does it leak oil passed the seal? LR also advised make up a plug guage about 0.002 up on the dia of the shaft, push it in the bearing and see how much the rolers move. If its alot then the bearing is toast. Sounds OK to me. So I tried it the rollers did not move. Its jsut a slopy fit on he shaft.
Cheers
Yes will do. I dont get any wobble with the old shafts or a Genuine LR pair although they are used by some 50K. Mine are genuine LR and have covered 130K miles. Both have this articulated button. As whacky as it sounds there may be some truth in it. Are you sure your original shafts are LR spec parts. Have a peak under the boot. The button should be able to tilt as well as rotate. I have a neighbour who worked for LR on the Freelander Td4/ BMW project way back. He now does engine ECU/ Injector calibration and all things land rover. He confirms that this could be the case. Typical LR.
I have also got UK Drive shafts working on the problem. keep you posted.
Safeman
I have also got UK Drive shafts working on the problem. keep you posted.
Safeman
Hi All
Just had confirmation from Drive shaft UK that LR did change the design of the shaft and fitted an articulated button to stop vibration due to some change or other. This vibration comes on when going up hill under load and persist to about 50mph. The change date was September 2003. Before that date the normal design will do the job. The fixed button type can not be fitted to the Td4 after Sept 2003 although the shafts are the same length. 600mm Off side and 630mm near side. Uk Drive shafts can supply the articulated type for about £100 per side. Very helpful chap.
Hope that helps clear the issue up.
Safeman
Just had confirmation from Drive shaft UK that LR did change the design of the shaft and fitted an articulated button to stop vibration due to some change or other. This vibration comes on when going up hill under load and persist to about 50mph. The change date was September 2003. Before that date the normal design will do the job. The fixed button type can not be fitted to the Td4 after Sept 2003 although the shafts are the same length. 600mm Off side and 630mm near side. Uk Drive shafts can supply the articulated type for about £100 per side. Very helpful chap.
Hope that helps clear the issue up.
Safeman
Baron Tanner
New Member
Hi. I am not sure if anyone is still following this thread but maybe someone can help.
I replaced worn LR driveshafts with aftermarket parts at about 120 000KM. I immediately had a wobble as I accelerated (through 35 to 40 Km/hr). When we put the original shaft on the left back it went away. Tried another new aftermarket part and its back. Suppliers tell me that they have never had this problem while Driveshaft specialists tell me its because the LR shafts have lateral movement built in which AMarket dont'. Any thoughts? Where to from here?
Baron - South Africa.
I replaced worn LR driveshafts with aftermarket parts at about 120 000KM. I immediately had a wobble as I accelerated (through 35 to 40 Km/hr). When we put the original shaft on the left back it went away. Tried another new aftermarket part and its back. Suppliers tell me that they have never had this problem while Driveshaft specialists tell me its because the LR shafts have lateral movement built in which AMarket dont'. Any thoughts? Where to from here?
Baron - South Africa.
Sorry to resurect this old thread but i am suffering the same issue you are having Angeloc. I am beating my brains silly with this exact same issue for an year and a half now. I have Freelander td4 auto 2002 and had the car examined by several guys. One stated it was a torque converter so i got specialised shop to fix it and i ended refurbishing the whole gearbox hoping this diagnose would be it BUT guess what... wobble under load was still there same as before and already 750 euro poorer. The other guy suggested inner cv joints were causing this .Unable to say which one i chose to be on the safe side sort of speak and i bought two new axle shafts from LRdirect. The axles are made by Allmakes 4x4 if this is of any importance and i guess it is as the cannot be ruled out even though they are new. I have fitted them on the vehicle and again.. no cigar. The same old story , wobble under load especially between 40-50 mph going uphill. I am torn apart now what to think. If it is the inner cv joint and if there is something like articulating thingy which Safeman23 said there is inside in the genuine land rover axle shafts which they dont incorporate into aftermarket shafts that would be a big shame if thats true. That means they intentionaly are selling the new units faulty. This is sick, again if it is true. On the other hand i don t know if any of you got to the bottom this and if you did please share the "good" news. I haven t checked the Ird bearings yet as it is a mystery to me that piece of equipment but if have to i will teach myself as i did with all the other parts which i have repaired so far on my beloved landy.
Ok. Enough chattering about me, please share your comments on the subject.
It will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
Ok. Enough chattering about me, please share your comments on the subject.
It will be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
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angeloc
Well-Known Member
Kenny88 - I have not solved it but just drive around it by easing up a little on the throttle when I feel it - it's only really in second gear as I drive hard so pulling back a touch usually lessens it so it's acceptable.
I have noticed a couple of things though - it's worse when I am on my own in the vehicle - add a passenger and it is lessened. I wonder if it is related to the right hand side upper engine mount which seems to have some kind of gas or air element to it. I say this because if it is stood still in very hot weather for a day or so the wobble is not there! I will get around to changing it at some point.
I have noticed a couple of things though - it's worse when I am on my own in the vehicle - add a passenger and it is lessened. I wonder if it is related to the right hand side upper engine mount which seems to have some kind of gas or air element to it. I say this because if it is stood still in very hot weather for a day or so the wobble is not there! I will get around to changing it at some point.
