Forgotthelandinggear

Forgotthelandinggear

Member
Hello all, I’ve been using my 2.25l diesel landy for a good half a year now and recently have noticed a small leak of diesel dripping from the top of the injector pump, possibly from where the throttle linkage enters.

(It seems this has been going on the whole time since the previous owner has zip tied a makeshift drip pan to the pump which has now failed and is why I can see the leak, my fault for not even noticing this when buying)

My question is, does this seem like an O-ring/gasket failure and is this possible to fix by myself with the pump in situ? Secondly, if yes, does anyone have a good guide to doing it or good diagrams?

Many thanks in advance, will add pictures later today
 
You can buy throttle shaft repair kits.
Seach Lucas CAV injection pump seals/repair kits etc.
Vids on youtube.
 
Not Land rover specific, the CAV DPA pump in fact a very common pump on tractors, diggers and many other vehicles of the same era.
"www.injectionpumps.co.uk" for parts and info. Good info on repair/refurb on you tube and decide if you are up to the job.
Although some claim to have done in situ I would not like to try. Injection pumps need to be worked on in a clean environment.
As rotary pumps go one of the simplest.
 
Forgotthelandinggear said:
I see, so the pump isn’t Land Rover specific then?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Common as muck, I have just changed a jcb one today, that to was leaking diesel.

Iirc the rough rule was if the throttle shaft is lekaing a new seal will work for a short period of time, what it really needs is a throttle shaft and seal, and if you are not sure a full refurb may be the way to go.

Depending where you are in the world Dieselbob seems to be the go to guy, if in Kent Rochester city diesels aint bad, mind you he can talk!
 
Awesome thanks all! The reason I didn’t want to remove the injector pump was because the timing was so good (virtually no smoke bar a bit of white smoke when it cold starts).

Watching some videos I’m sure it could be done in situ on an open sided tractor engine but definitely not on the landy. I’ll give it a crack myself, no harm in trying, but will have to remove it.

In theory if I use a little paint to align the pump with its original position the timing should be the same right?
 
I would mark pump and block with a sharp chisel, more accurate than paint and wont be rubbed off.
You also have to make sure there is no chance of engine being turned, take note of position of crank pully and pointer on the casing. paint ok here.
 
tottot said:
I would mark pump and block with a sharp chisel, more accurate than paint and wont be rubbed off.
You also have to make sure there is no chance of engine being turned, take note of position of crank pully and pointer on the casing. paint ok here.
Click to expand...
Thank you! One last thing, I'm going to need to purchase a spanner set for this (everything else I’ve managed to do with my socket set) I’m assuming I need imperial sizes?
 
I wouldn’t hesitate to have it completely refurbished. After years of faultless operation mine had a brainfart and on internal inspection was completely goosed. In fact Diesel Bob couldn’t believe it was off a runner. 😳
 
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