Run it to the cigi lighter socket :oops: .

J

I was going to use a separate battery to power all the lights


@landowner why not go the whole hog and buy a little 12v inverter for 240v 50hz output and put a whole string of Xmas LED lights in and have all permutations of "flashing/sequencing" available? Inverters are cheap on e-bay as are the XMAs LED lights.

I thought xmas lights were 12v anyway, with plug in adaptor

As long assits rated to take the current, it shud be ok.

That is of course if you know what the current is, leds are rated in lumens as far as I can tell so how many of those to a piece of wire ?
 
Gout was thought to be a sign of rich living. The worser the gout, the richer yer living was. Peeps would blag it to stand oot in social circles to raise their profile. When they realised poor peeps could get gout anorl, a lot of peeps suddenly realised theirs had gone. This were many years ago.
 
I was going to use a separate battery to power all the lights




I thought xmas lights were 12v anyway, with plug in adaptor



That is of course if you know what the current is, leds are rated in lumens as far as I can tell so how many of those to a piece of wire ?
Power yer leds oft somefink and measure the current. There ain't an o'fishal conversion for lumins to watts. It largely depends on the type and efficiency of the source of light. Yer can safely use 1mm cable and pass 8 amps down it. Eye wuk to 1mm 8 amps at wuk for panel wiring. It will take more burreye needs a safety factor. 1mm red and black, 32/0.2 is free from wuk. ;)
 
Power yer leds oft somefink and measure the current. There ain't an o'fishal conversion for lumins to watts. It largely depends on the type and efficiency of the source of light. Yer can safely use 1mm cable and pass 8 amps down it. Eye wuk to 1mm 8 amps at wuk for panel wiring. It will take more burreye needs a safety factor. 1mm red and black, 32/0.2 is free from wuk. ;)
I've seen trucks running 15 to 20 led marker lights at the back of the cab and they use standard sidelight cable as far as I can see.
I think it's a matter of switch on and see how hot the wire gets or if it blows a 10 amp fuse, I'm not very good at measuring electricity, can't work the current tester, only on continuity
 
Must be bofore they invented starter motors.


When I was an air cadet, we had a day out with the Royal Corps of Transport and we saw some blokes practising for a race with Land Rovers. The blokes had to jump in and out of them, load and unload them with all sorts of stuff, change a wheel with no jack and after doing that, with some of the blokes lifting the side up in the air they had to start it by spinning a back wheel by hand. We saw them doing this over and over again. As this was before 1972 I wonder what version of a Series they would have been. Doubtless the low compression ratio would have made it start reasonably easily like that. A mate of mine whose batt was always running low on his IIa often started it with the starting handle.
 
When I was an air cadet, we had a day out with the Royal Corps of Transport and we saw some blokes practising for a race with Land Rovers. The blokes had to jump in and out of them, load and unload them with all sorts of stuff, change a wheel with no jack and after doing that, with some of the blokes lifting the side up in the air they had to start it by spinning a back wheel by hand. We saw them doing this over and over again. As this was before 1972 I wonder what version of a Series they would have been. Doubtless the low compression ratio would have made it start reasonably easily like that. A mate of mine whose batt was always running low on his IIa often started it with the starting handle.
I used to start my Morris Oxford with a starting handle, this was in the nineties, it confused the yung uns because I only had to tug upwards on the handle and she would start
 
We have cast iron gutters and that is what's on my planning for the garage, never see copper gutters. My high school had the choice of a swimming pool or a copper covered roof. Yer they got a copper roof. :rolleyes:
Some places in Frogland have copper downpipes but I too haven't seen copper gutters. There are a lot of galvy gutters, we have them. They cope well with the heat but have a tendency to leak at the joins in the corners. There is a good product like a mastic that you can use to mend them rather than flipping around with trying to resolder them. You can even stick endplates back on with it.
 
I've seen trucks running 15 to 20 led marker lights at the back of the cab and they use standard sidelight cable as far as I can see.
I think it's a matter of switch on and see how hot the wire gets or if it blows a 10 amp fuse, I'm not very good at measuring electricity, can't work the current tester, only on continuity
Are the lights new. Can yer point to them on the web so we can check power consumption.
 
I've seen trucks running 15 to 20 led marker lights at the back of the cab and they use standard sidelight cable as far as I can see.
I think it's a matter of switch on and see how hot the wire gets or if it blows a 10 amp fuse, I'm not very good at measuring electricity, can't work the current tester, only on continuity
Do you not have a cheap multimeter? They might be able to measure current. You can get them for about a tenner.

(AstroAI Digital Multimeter Voltmeter Ohmmeter Ammeter Multi Tester Meter with Backlit LCD Electronic Test Meter Measures Voltage, Current, Resistance; Tests Continuity, Diode £8.00 from amazon.)

If not use amps = volts/resistance as the MM will measure both of the latter. Others will tell me if this would work as it might not work in current flowing circs.

EDIT you might also need to use Watts = Volts x Amps, once you have done the above as it is the power flowing through stuff that blows it up or burns it out. Generally, if in doubt use thicker wire than you think you need as it will flow the current without heating up too much.

The thing is that to work as an ammeter the meter either has to be in series with the circuit, i.e. part of it, in low current applications. Or you have to connect a known resistance in series with it and measure across that resistor to get the current.
This latter is to protect the meter itself.

One that tests capacitors would be a very good idea, mine doesn't. :rolleyes:
 
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Me gran showed me how to start her Austin A35 with the starting handle. And where to not put my thumb to avoid getting it broken.
Neither of my grans could drive and only one of my grandpas, although he was in charge of many engine rooms on merchant ships crossing the Atlantic and other oceans!
Even my dad, not the most mechanical of blokes, knew how to use a starting handle and where to put your thumb.

Now, how many know how to start a car by retarding the spark???!! 🤣 🤣
 
Do you not have a cheap multimeter? They might be able to measure current. You can get them for about a tenner.

(AstroAI Digital Multimeter Voltmeter Ohmmeter Ammeter Multi Tester Meter with Backlit LCD Electronic Test Meter Measures Voltage, Current, Resistance; Tests Continuity, Diode £8.00 from amazon.)

If not use amps = volts/resistance as the MM will measure both of the latter. Others will tell me if this would work as it might not work in current flowing circs.

EDIT you might also need to use Watts = Volts x Amps, once you have done the above as it is the power flowing through stuff that blows it up or burns it out. Generally, if in doubt use thicker wire than you think you need as it will flow the current without heating up too much.

The thing is that to work as an ammeter the meter either has to be in series with the circuit, i.e. part of it, in low current applications. Or you have to connect a known resistance in series with it and measure across that resistor to get the current.
This latter is to protect the meter itself.

One that tests capacitors would be a very good idea, mine doesn't. :rolleyes:
I'm afraid all of that might as well be in Chinese cause I don't understand most of it but thanks :)
 
Off to park caravan up while the suns shining, worry about lumens later 😃
 

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10Pcs 12V Car Truck Lorry Round LED Bullet Button Side Mini Marker Lights Lamp (EBay)
Just found these. They are even CANbus compatible, which would be good to use if you had a modern car, But I guess your truck is fairly old school.
Have a read of this, I found it interesting.
.

(This is the only bit I didn't get. "You still need a fuse and a 1000uF bypass capacitor. " Why the capacitor, and how would you wire it in? What would you be bypassing? )

Now I get it, :


Looks like you wouldn't need it with your set up, this is for a domestic set up with a "driver" i.e. the box of tricks that takes 230 volts AC and converts it to 12 volts DC.

I hope this works for you.
On reading it I'd be tempted to just rig them up directly to the truck's batt via a switch and a fuse as they ARE designed to work off a running car's electrics. If your stand alone batt runs down they may not like it, while it is doing so. Unless you intend to leave them on a long time with the engine not running.

Hope this helps and is more in layman's terms.
 
10Pcs 12V Car Truck Lorry Round LED Bullet Button Side Mini Marker Lights Lamp (EBay)
Found this from yer search details


They dun't look massive. Wiv being led's they won't take much. Use 1mm cable. Will be ok. If yer gerra betterer multimeter we can teach yer how to measure current. Wire all led's in parallel across the battery. Add in fuse and switch in the positive cable anorl.
 
There really is no need to make such a mess, that really gets my back up. Got pics of your new set up I may look at doing this
in me garage. Ive got a metal set of stairs but looking at them they are quite bulky & they take up a permeant space.
I've come to the conclusion that dust sheets have gone out of fashion. Tried a different chimney sweep last time around, one small sheet, previous and future lays them all the way from the front door.
 

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