kevstar said:
Right then this worktop saga is annoying me now get the pics up, when offering the worktop to the wall you need a spacer
say a bit of timber 2"x 4" then put the timber on the wall & a pencil on the worktop side (away from the wall) move the timber
along the wall with the pencil & the same time to draw a line on the worktop & cut it off...this will give the shape of the wall
onto your worktop. Could try with a scrap bit o timber then transfer the shape onto the worktop.

Clear as mud right 🤣 🤣
Click to expand...
Mate I haven't got a problem marking anything up, the problem is that I have tiled it already and the walls form a trapezium, with the wider bit on the longer side, on the window wall. So I can't just drop it in (cos of the tiles) and I can't slide it in cos I cannot slide the wide bit of worktop through the narrow gap where the outside edge will be going.
But as I said, I have had an epiphany.
I think I can shorten both ends of the worktop just enough to be able to put one end below the tiles and into the space there sufficiently for the other end to just clear the tiles, then drop that end down. Then I will be able to slide the worktop along so that the end I have just droped down will just go under the edge of the tiles. The first end will also just be under the edge of the tiles there too. The supporting battens on both ends will have to be wider.
I spent so long on this cos I didnt think this was possible but the day before yesterday I experimented with the bit I had cut off the back to make the top narrower and was suprised to find that it should work. It is just a bit complicated by the fact that I have to make a cut out for the trunking and the angles on that aren't too clever either.
The way you mantion it, which is the classic way of marking up, would work fine, and indeed is exactly what I used in the past, But then I tiled afterwards!

Recently I tried just cutting a template at right angles hoping that where it touched the wall at the the front visible edge, the gap at the back would still be covered by the tiles, but even though the tiles are thickish there was still a huge gap. The tiles on that ebnd of the wall finish about 4 to 5 inches before the front edge of the WT on the right hand edge the whole top goes under tiles. So I don't want a belting great gap between the edge of the WT and the wall, and as it is curved edge there is no way I am going to cut a similar profile with a router or summat to bring the front edge to to where it meets the wall under the tiles. and no I have no tiles left to tile over it! Imagine trying to cover a curved edge likem that with some kind of worktop laminate stuff to match.

Yep I have made the difficulty for myself.
Should have measured the walls before I started.
I might put just one pic up, To show how stupidly far away from 90 degs the left wall is from the window wall.
Once I'd started on all this I remembered how me and my ex-s.i.l had struggled a bit with it last time we did it. As I didn't want to change the tiles, just the WT, again they were already up, but they were much much thinner. So we managed to drop it in, just. Mind you, working with him we removed and replaced all WTs in both the kitchen and the utility without distrubing the tiles or the units. And we did it in one evening, Finished at 2 a.m. I seem to recall. The difference between me and a pro with me "helping"!
 
Last edited:
Stanleysteamer said:
Mate I haven't got a problem marking anything up, the problem is that I have tiled it already and the walls form a trapezium, with the wider bit on the longer side, on the window wall. So I can't just drop it in (cos of the tiles) and I can't slide it in cos I cannot slide the wide bit of worktop through the narrow gap where the outside edge will be going.
But as I said, I have had an epiphany.
I think I can shorten both ends of the worktop just enough to be able to put one end below the tiles and into the space there sufficiently for the other end to just clear the tiles, then drop that end down. Then I will be able to slide the worktop along so that the end I have just droped down will just go under the edge of the tiles. The first end will also just be under the edge of the tiles there too. The supporting battens on both ends will have to be wider.
I spent so long on this cos I didnt think this was possible but the day before yesterday I experimented with the bit I had cut off the back to make the top narrower and was suprised to find that it should work. It is just a bit complicated by the fact that I have to make a cut out for the trunking and the angles on that aren't too clever either.
The way you mantion it, which is the classic way of marking up, would work fine, and indeed is exactly what I used in the past, But then I tiled afterwards!

Recently I tried just cutting a template at right angles hoping that where it touched the wall at the the front visible edge, the gap at the back would still be covered by the tiles, but even though the tiles are thickish there was still a huge gap. The tiles on that ebnd of the wall finish about 4 to 56 inches before the front edge of the WT on the right hand edge the whole top goes under tiles. So I don't want a belting great gap between the edge of the WT and the wall, and as it is curved edge there is no way I am going to cut a similar profile with a router or summat to bring the front edge to to where it meets the wall under the tiles. and no I have no tiles left to tile over it! Imagine trying to cover a curved edge likem that with some kind of worktop laminate stuff to match.

Yep I have made the difficulty for myself.
Should have measured the walls before I started.
I might put just one pic up, To show how stupidly far away from 90 degs the left wall is from the window wall.
Once I'd started on all this I remembered how me and my ex-s.i.l had struggled a bit with it last time we did it. As I didn't want to change the tiles, just the WT, again they were already up, but they were much much thinner. So we managed to drop it in, just. Mind you, working with him we removed and replaced all WTs in both the kitchen and the utility without distrubing the tiles or the units. And we did it in one evening, Finished at 2 a.m. I seem to recall. The difference between me and a pro with me "helping"!
Click to expand...
When faced with such a trapezium in the past I have managed to angle the ends sufficiently to allow the offending worktop to be put in place at an angle (one end down, the other up) and then straightened up to fly right. YMMV of course. ;)
 
I would like to congratulate our illustrious leader (peace be on him)
Today he has released his official portrait for all to admire.
IMG_20231121_145951_1~2.jpg
 
I've been shopping. I bought a mower off Ebay.
IMG_0924[1].JPG


It's a Hayter Condor, complete with Honda engine and a twin rotor mower deck. I've taken it to pieces and stuffed it in the back of the Land Rover to take to Wales next time I go. I've always liked those rough cut mowers with miniature tractor tyres on the back, and now I have one. I know you can get larger ones, in the form of brands like Scag and Ferris, but the 30" width of this one will fit nicely between my trees.
 
Brown said:
I've been shopping. I bought a mower off Ebay.
View attachment 303173

It's a Hayter Condor, complete with Honda engine and a twin rotor mower deck. I've taken it to pieces and stuffed it in the back of the Land Rover to take to Wales next time I go. I've always liked those rough cut mowers with miniature tractor tyres on the back, and now I have one. I know you can get larger ones, in the form of brands like Scag and Ferris, but the 30" width of this one will fit nicely between my trees.
Click to expand...
Good buy would be handy over here 👍👍
 
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