Turtled · Dec 2, 2011

Hi all.
Yet another bolt problem...! (The car is a 2000 P38 4.6 V8).

I'm wanting to get behind the front cover to get at the timing chain, camshaft etc. I'm stuck because I can't work out how to get the crankshaft pulley bolt undone. Given that I've not got a spare £150 kicking around for the special LR tool, has anyone got any top tips on how to do it?

While I'm on, is the bolt officially a 24mm head or a 15/16"? I'm considering buying an impact wrench to do it...

Cheers in advance.
Turtled.

Mr Noisy · Dec 2, 2011

The pikey method is to engage the nut with a long bar against the chassis and then crack the starter. This should be enough to shock it loose.

Remove the king lead as you do not want it to fire, and use a 6 sided impact socket of the best fitting size.

Beware any other type of socket may explode.

Cheers.

jonnyt · Dec 3, 2011

Usually if you get a ratchet strap and wind it round the fly wheel a couple of times and then back to the chassis and tighten it up this will hold it firmly enough for a breaking bar to release the nut. Don't go round too many times otherwise it will slip. Bit like the principle of the Capstan winch.

I have had one that wouldn't budge that way so ended up making effectively a large oil filter grip (band of metal bent to fit neatly round the flywheel and bolted together as they come together at the end) with a long bar attached to it. With some emery paper inside and bolted together I've never had a problem removing them. Bit of a faff but cheaper than a landrover tool!

The starter motor trick does work but the Landrover dealership used this trick many moons ago on an old 200Tdi. Completely b*ggered the starter motor.

Jon

Mr Noisy · Dec 3, 2011

Yeah agreed starter motor is "at your own risk" !

Turtled · Dec 3, 2011

Mr Noisy said:
Yeah agreed starter motor is "at your own risk" !

Now you say!!!!

I've come up with an alternative method - well to be honest it was my Dad - who's a bit handy with these things. Anyway, bearing in mind that my heads are off at the moment, the method we used was to drop a block of wood into one of the cylinders, then bolt another sturdy piece of wood over the top of the cylinder - using the cylinder head bolts into the block. Then, you turn the engine by hand until the piston can't go any further, then go at the nut properly with a breaker bar. Worked like a dream, and the best bit is that we can use the same method on re-assembly - which wouldn't work with the starter motor method!!

Well pleased. Had a good day today.

Cheers guys.

Mr Noisy · Dec 3, 2011

Sorted!

Turtled · Dec 3, 2011

jonnyt said:
Usually if you get a ratchet strap and wind it round the fly wheel a couple of times and then back to the chassis and tighten it up this will hold it firmly enough for a breaking bar to release the nut. Don't go round too many times otherwise it will slip. Bit like the principle of the Capstan winch.

I have had one that wouldn't budge that way so ended up making effectively a large oil filter grip (band of metal bent to fit neatly round the flywheel and bolted together as they come together at the end) with a long bar attached to it. With some emery paper inside and bolted together I've never had a problem removing them. Bit of a faff but cheaper than a landrover tool!

The starter motor trick does work but the Landrover dealership used this trick many moons ago on an old 200Tdi. Completely b*ggered the starter motor.

Jon

Jon. I forgot to say earlier, that sounds like a genius idea to try if I'm doing this without the heads off - cheers for the input. I think I'm too chicken to do the starter motor trick!

jonnyt · Dec 4, 2011

No probs. I agree on the starter motor front. I juts don't like the idea. With one that was really stuck it took me a whole day before freeing it but still didn't go down that route.

Have you got the flywheel off yet - that can be fun and games too - especially if the water pump has been slowly leaking onto it for a little while...

rappy1 · Dec 9, 2011

One way we use to do it on other vehicles was to drill a hole in the bell housing large enough to take a large flat blade screw driver. You need to make sure you drill in the same location as the ring gear. Works a charm and is very useful for re tightening the crank bolt once done. Just put a rubber bung in the bell housing to seal it

Mr Noisy · Dec 9, 2011

ring gear method gets my vote

MrGorsky · Feb 19, 2015

Does anyone know what the correct size of the crankshaft pulley bolt is? Officially? For a 1997 Gems 4.6?

cooltide · Feb 21, 2015

Part no. Erc417
5/8"unf x about 2"

MrGorsky · Feb 21, 2015

Thanks.

I didn't really ask what I meant to though! I should have said what size socket do I need for the crank shaft pully bolt?

It's going to be tight, and it's got to be done up tight, so I'd rather get the correct sized socket to avoid damaging the bolt head.

cooltide · Feb 21, 2015

15/16" but a 24mm will do fine. There's nothing in it really. 6 point impact as above

MrGorsky · Feb 21, 2015

Many thanks.

Willos · Feb 25, 2015

You need to take the sump off to get the front cover off. Block of 3x2 between crack and side wall does the trick and works a treat. Steady pressure on a breaker bar with a 24mm socket. Job done. Just put my cover back on so will be tightening it up tomorrow

Peter Parkinson · Jul 28, 2017

Removed post. Sorry I upset so many people.

MrGorsky · Jul 28, 2017

I have a tool for holding the pulley.

Designed and built by LandyZone memeber @Saint.V8 it's available free to anyone that wants to use it.

It's a little Heath Robinson, but works a treat with the correct sized bolts to attach it to the pulley.

Invaluable for doing the bolt back up to the correct torque too.

Conditions are that you pay postage, and send it back when you've finished so someone else can use it.

johnnyb70 · Oct 23, 2017

That's a great solution tbh. I use a 24mm impact and a Makita 18v impact gun with a fully charged battery. Works well.

Enuff · Nov 5, 2017

Drill two 12mm holes 3'' apart at one end of a 3ft length of right angle and bolt it to the pulley. 24mm spanner and squashed scaff pole or lump hammer.
Put spanner on before attaching angle,

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