we went the same way sible

forst hump was ok and getting front wheels past the tree stump but the back wheels were not having kt at all
 
sible88 said:
That first pic mike is where we got stuck and the hammer came out to fit bumper again!!
Going they way you did was ok but going the other way, WELL that's another story!! Coming up the first bank or last going other way there is a big tree stump you have to bump up and it was not do-able in my 90
Click to expand...
Jai and I did it the hard way, couldn't get over the last tree root, I winched myself out, then winched Jai out. Did anyone manage to drive out of that? Fair play if they did.
 
Great day out yesterday. Cheers for the ride Spidie. George hasn't stopped talking about it. I've got a few photos and some video, but not very good quality. I'll upload them somewhere when I've got my laptop sorted as it packed up the other day.

I've had another look at my back brakes, and the ones on the right hand side are in very poor condition. The shoes were worn unevenly and were almost down to the rivets at one place. I tried locking the brakes on with just the adjusters and even on max, they just brush the drum and and I can still turn the wheel. Whatever the problems is, these will need replacing. If changing these doesn't let me adjust them up properly, then I'll look at the slaves.
 
Another excuse to take the landy to scotland? I would jump at that! :D Could research some tracks nearby too maybe? And a campsite if any of you are brave enough :D:D

These pics are really making me jealous now.. got it back now for posting lots of pics when I was away :lol:
 
I reckon if I had a front locker in I coulda got up it. I bounced the rear wheel up over it but it stopped right on the root and slid down over it. The front being open did nothing to help just spun the opposite wheel up.
 
Spyderman said:
Jai and I did it the hard way, couldn't get over the last tree root, I winched myself out, then winched Jai out. Did anyone manage to drive out of that? Fair play if they did.
Click to expand...

One did it on the power with fedma's (traction trax) but was a serious bit of kit!!
And one used a waffle board but at least 5 others tried but failed.

I was getting stuck on the rear also, tried so much but was not happening!!
 
I want a full roll cage but my question is?
Some bolt on body work and look like they are for looks? And some bolt to chassis?
I want it to go all down the side but sticking out slightly.
 
sible88 said:
I want a full roll cage but my question is?
Some bolt on body work and look like they are for looks? And some bolt to chassis?
I want it to go all down the side but sticking out slightly.
Click to expand...

External cage is the bit you see, but it should have bars inside the front wings to connect the cage in front of the windscreen with the chassis, also the rear cage should again be internally bolted/welded to the chassis, plus it needs to be cross braced, otherwise it just bends and folds up if you go over.

If you're going to fit a cage make sure it's up to the job.

Here's the specifications: http://www.alrc.co.uk/new regulations/rbindex.htm
 
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Plenty of Bull***t cages out there cheapest is Whitbread-offroad comp spec one. Many Challenge trucks do not meet minimum standards. Remember that nothing now or very soon can be tagged to a roll cage that includes light mounts hi lifts etc.
 
That surprises me I would of thought the top one would be best.
Can you get a full external, then fit the hoop in the rear?
 
My old cage was a whitbread and personally I would say keep well clear. Blueband tube and generally badly put together. I have just changed my for a proper cage and what a difference. I have had many tags on the cage as I have a roof tent, lights, forest wire etc however I plan to go round Europe so not looking for a comp spec 90 although I'm pretty sure it will go almost anywhere a challenge spec 90 will go now :)
 
Glenn i don't agree

Blueband is the way forward. If you intend on using the cage frequently like ccv motors bouncing off trees and comp motors do. Cds is way thinner wall thickness and does deform way sooner than blueband/redband. Cds is lighter and can be bent into tighter bends due to its thinner wall thickness. But a bit of a catch with a tree and scrap the cage is no good to me.

Most the triallers have been using red band for years my own trialler has had a cage for most likley 2 or 3 decades tbefore i've owned it thats been trialled and comp safari raced and not deformed or srushed at all.


If I was in an a roll over i would want to be in a redband/blue band cage to msa spec.
 
I'm going to go for a cage for mine. I don't care what it looks like, so long as it's super tough to take the general knocks and saves my life should I roll it.
 
Glenn sounds like you got the usual speel from a salesman like North offroad people or somone with cds capabilities. Its cds is different what cage do you have now? Does it conform to msa blue book? Or one thats been successfully destruction tested such as saftey devices?
 
see i told you that this weekend you would break a shaft, wrong buy a roll cage right!

Talk to andy i think he has his bender in his garage ready to knock up some cages
 
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