Tonyj66 said:
The face lift 2004 td4 does have two fuel pumps, you have the one behind the rear wheel that you have mentioned, but you also have a lift pump in the fuel tank, if this has stopped working the pump behind the wheel will not be able to pump the fuel to the injectors.
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Sorry Tonyj66, all TD4 models from 03MY onwards had the in-tank pump deleted. The wheelarch pump is able to pump fuel OK on its own, hence the modification.
 
I'm afraid I have to disagree, I owned a 2004 td4 on an 04 plate for 9 years and mine had the lift pump in the tank. I know because I had to take it out once to check it worked when mine stopped running. Sorry.
 
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Wasn't a foreign spec, maybe some were fitted and some weren't when they swapped them over. Who knows!
However, may still be a good idea if Rocky has a look and checks that all is ok, wether it be a fuel sender/pump or just a fuel sender. Can't hurt to check.
 
The item under the inspection hatch under the back seat is NOT A PUMP, it is the sender unit with a rudimentary filter, as per photos.
 
Here it is, wasted an other hour taking this in and out.
 

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Rocky Ward said:
The item under the inspection hatch under the back seat is NOT A PUMP, it is the sender unit with a rudimentary filter, as per photos.
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You are quite correct. The way to tell without pulling the unit out is looking at the connections on it. If there are 4 pins, it's a pump/sensor unit. If it has 2 pins like yours, it's a fuel level sensor only.

Have you tested your crank sensor? That's all that is left, if it's not the cam sensor.
What diagnostic equipment are you using?
 
Rocky, sorry you wasted your time, i didn't know that it was that easy to tell the difference between the two as Nodge has pointed out.
Hopefully you will soon be up and running again though.
 
I already bought a new cam sensor.

Having spoken to an independent LR garage he thinks its almost certainly the HP fuel pump in the engine, which I need to think about as thats £600 part and labour, if I can do it myself.

I am developing a diesel puddle under the engine bay and when I turn the ignition on I am getting a hissing noise for about 20 seconds.
 
Have tried 3 scanners, all fail to detect the unplugging of the fuel rail sensor connector so I think my truck might have 2003 parts in it despite being build in 2004, 2003 being the cut off for the manufacturer firewalling the ECU etc.

I know someone with a good snapon scanner but he doesn't have the key for a freelander.

Sigh.
 
Rocky Ward said:
Have tried 3 scanners, all fail to detect the unplugging of the fuel rail sensor connector so I think my truck might have 2003 parts in it despite being build in 2004, 2003 being the cut off for the manufacturer firewalling the ECU etc.

I know someone with a good snapon scanner but he doesn't have the key for a freelander.

Sigh.
Click to expand...
I've done the HP pump in ours, if you need any advice on that. I can even give you the links for a rebuild kit (if appropriate) and point you to the special tool you need.
 
I fail to see how the HPFP can stop working, while other work is being carried out.
It's all very odd.
 
Thanks guineafowl21, I have taken the inlet manifold off again and when I turn on the ignition there is a hissing noise coming from the vicinity of the HP pump, I tightened the nuts just in case but it makes no difference. Can someone tell me if they always hiss or not please.

I was told earlier that the ECU monitors the HP and LP pressure and if they are not above a certain limit it will not fire, so I am assuming this is finally the true fault I have been chasing.

Thanks,
 
guineafowl21, special too ?

Someone said something about winding it out, I presume this is the tool you mean ?

Yes the links would be very helpful, did it take long to do ?

I was told 3 hours if you have done it before etc.
 
My pump doesn't hiss, at least not loud enough to be heard. Could it have an leak or blockage in the pump feed pipe. Or have the feed and return pipes been swapped over?
 
Rocky Ward said:
guineafowl21, special too ?

Someone said something about winding it out, I presume this is the tool you mean ?

Yes the links would be very helpful, did it take long to do ?

I was told 3 hours if you have done it before etc.
Click to expand...
LRT 12-178 and LRT 12-178(1) - it holds the HP pump drive sprocket on the chain (or it drops down into Neverland) and pushes the pump spindle to release it.

Darwen Diesels (online) supply it and seal kits. They're very helpful - give them a ring. Remove pump, rebuild with new seals, refit took about 4-5 hours.

EDIT: According to @Gogadget The Nielsen hydraulic valve lifter puller looks exactly the same as the LRT, but is a lot cheaper. You'll also need a 17mm Allen key to undo the access cover.
 
Here's a few questions to answer/ignore/mock (take your choice)

I thought you said earlier the injectors were not being fired, why would an iffy HP pump stop the ECU firing them?
Why would the HP pump suddenly die at exactly the same time as you did the heater plugs?
Would it be worth looking for 2nd hand loom? If you had a dodgy connection in the loom, it could have been dislodged when you were working on it.
Don't suppose the emergency cut off valve under the fuse box has triggered?
Have you done the leak back test to prove both HP and LP pumps are working (do it both ways)?
 
Alibro : If the HP and LP pumps aren't up to a preset limit, then the ECU is programmed to NOT fire, since it tries to run on Easy Start then can't be cut off valve can it, yes did leak off test, which is like cracking the injector pipes, no fuel so why would there be any spare fuel to enter spill pipe system ?

Can someone else check if their pump hisses for 20 secs or so on the ignition stage, ie key turned but not running.

Thanks.
 
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