Research suggest that the ECU pulses pin 9 from time to time so making a permanent earth is unwise and of course it might not meant to be earthed on ignition, maybe someone could meter theirs for me and see ?

Next step is to tow start it and see what that brings, battery on charge at moment so will try that tomorrow.

Have to admit I am about out of patience with it now, its been broken longer than working for the short time I have owned it.

Sigh.
 
Decided on 1 more test before doing a tow start.

Disconnected the diesel return to the tank at the sender end of the pipe as it enters the tank, then pulled the spill pipe off injector number 1.

Blocked the pipe to prevent deisel running back to the tank and put a temporary spill pipe onto injector 1.

Cranked the engine and fuel forced its way out of the disconnected return pipe at the sender end, I believe this proves that the Fuel Pump High Pressure regulator has failed or there is a leak. Have bought a genuine LR High Pressure Fuel Pump Regulator MAV000040 Repair Kit off ebay for £25.

Will see in a few days if this is the culprit.
 
I don't quite understand, but surely if you have left the injector spill pipes connected to the other three injectors, then you will have fuel coming out of the disconnected return pipe at the sender end?
 
I don't see how removing the inlet manifold to change the plugs has caused the high pressure control valve to fail open. I'd have thought that it would fail closed, leading to over fuelling and black smoke. I'm assuming the wires to it are intact?
From your description, it sounds like the fuel is simply returning to the tank, which it would do anyway. It might be worth reading the codes on other ECUs as a spurious errors elsewhere can upset the engine ECU. My gearbox ECU got upset by a low voltage code in the ABS ECU.
 
Tonyj66 : they are all connected in series to 1 pipe that flows back to the tank.

Nodge68 : I had the car sat doing nothing for 2 weeks while I fitted new brake shoes, I was sent the wrong set and decided to leave it on axle stands and fit the new glow plugs and a couple of other mods, like a K&N air filter as its not my daily driver, when I finished and came to test drive it I than had the problem. It might have had nothing to do with the work I did, I mentioned it in the spirit of sharing all the info.

I have battled with starting issues since I had it, I had recently fitted a new Mahle fuel filter and ran it for about a week prior to doing the brakes.

I had to do the rear brake shoes as they jammed on and I had to drive it off my drive with them jammed on to free them off, which damaged the shoes.

I am well aware of the fact that Diesels return fuel back into the tank, I blocked the spill return pipe off remember ! So the fact that fuel found its way back means it had to have come via the fuel pressure regulator. ( look at the link to the image I sent, it states on there that this is what it is designed to do when faced with high pressure or a blockage / leak ).

My scanner shows no other codes, just engine ones. I have 5 which all seem to be unrelated and false.
 
After 2 hours of blood sweat and tantrums I managed to remove the HP Fuel Regulator.

Which ever moron at LR thought it would be a good idea to use splined bolts need a good hiding, what a nightmare of a job getting them out.

Enclosed photos of my regulator, the tiny O-Ring and Spacer look ok to me but the metal gasket is covered in oil on both faces, 1 of the bolts was not very tight so I suspect that this was the cause of the air leak, you will also notice that the end of the unit is heavily corroded.

Will fit new spacer, o-ring and gasket when they arrive in a day or so, shall also be popping to my local Tool Fasteners to get replacements for the 2 comedy spline nuts so I can tighten them properly.

Nodge68 : Look at this link, I think this guy had the same issue as I am having.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...mp-continually-runs-engine-wont-start.290984/
 

Attachments

  • WP_20160611_15_44_36_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160611_15_44_36_Pro.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 185
  • WP_20160611_15_44_41_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160611_15_44_41_Pro.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 142
  • WP_20160611_15_44_50_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160611_15_44_50_Pro.jpg
    92.3 KB · Views: 176
  • WP_20160611_15_44_58_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160611_15_44_58_Pro.jpg
    134.1 KB · Views: 147
  • WP_20160611_15_45_08_Pro.jpg
    WP_20160611_15_45_08_Pro.jpg
    78.6 KB · Views: 207
Just discovered end of MAP sensor had broken off and was inside inlet manifold, only realised when I was fitting a replacement, hope this is not all the problem all along. :-(

Will see when I fit new gaskets etc to HP Fuel Regulator.
 
Dont think the MAP is your issue, I unplugged mine to see how well it ran and there was little change. Fitted a fully cleaned one and it ran alot better but did not stop it starting.

Looks like its as simple as that pesky o ring.

Going to order one of them to have in my tool box just in case.
 
FIXED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I soaked the HP Fuel Regulator in Carb Cleaner for 2 days and fitted the new O-Ring, Spacer and Gasket.

Got some new cap Head Bolts and torqued them up to 9Nm.

Fired first time but took a few minutes to get it running properly but its purring like a kitten now.

Will see how it is in the next few days.

Annoyingly the 5 fault codes that the scanner kept re-detecting have now all gone, so am thinking that the scanner was a bad investment, might try and get a refund as its certainly no use on an engine that will not start.
 
Well done that man,
Perseverance got you there in the end.
Lesson for us all to keep a spare o ring in the tool box.
A ten pence part causing so much trouble.
 
Why do you think it happened when you were working at the heater plugs? Just coincidence?

Unfortunately for Rocky, the small O-ring may have been the cause of the problem from the start. Then again, he could have change it first he he'd known it was that and it could have been something else causing the original warm start problem.
Thankfully it looks like he's up and running. Well done that man for persevering!
 
Unfortunately for Rocky, the small O-ring may have been the cause of the problem from the start. Then again, he could have change it first he he'd known it was that and it could have been something else causing the original warm start problem.
Thankfully it looks like he's up and running. Well done that man for persevering!
+1, most would have given up long ago.
 
Well done that man,
Perseverance got you there in the end.
Lesson for us all to keep a spare o ring in the tool box.
A ten pence part causing so much trouble.
Indeed. I've just ordered one for my spares box. For the £5.80 it cost, it's silly not to really.
 
FIXED !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I soaked the HP Fuel Regulator in Carb Cleaner for 2 days and fitted the new O-Ring, Spacer and Gasket.

Got some new cap Head Bolts and torqued them up to 9Nm.

Fired first time but took a few minutes to get it running properly but its purring like a kitten now.

Will see how it is in the next few days.

Annoyingly the 5 fault codes that the scanner kept re-detecting have now all gone, so am thinking that the scanner was a bad investment, might try and get a refund as its certainly no use on an engine that will not start.
A beer salute for that man!

What scanner did you use, and didn't it tell you the pressure regulator duty cycle was off? A useless thing if so.
 
With resepect to the "why did it fail during the unrelated job?" question, it's probably a matter of time involved.

Diesel leaks are a nightmare because they tend to leak air in in miniscule amounts instead of fuel out - and if a vehicle is used day in day out you just get the occasional hard start. Leave it for a week or two and air gets in in a major way and it won't re-prime.

Used to be a big problem with the older bmw 6 cylinder M54 engines - the return lines would go porous and the seals in the injection pump would start leaking - leave the car for a week and it was impossible to start due to the amount of air in the system.
 

Similar threads