I've read a few posts and I think I'm getting close to a diagnosis but wanted to ask the experts on here what they thought before I start dropping fuel tanks etc.
My problem (apart from being stupid!) was the fuel gauge stayed on 1/2 full for ages and I didn't really give it my full attention (told you I was stupid) - Did a full days driving, work/ stress etc etc. Anyway, next day started up my 2009 FR2 and all good noticed fuel gauge still 1/2 full and thought thats odd and I should definitely at least put fuel in. Anyway got a few miles down the run and she cut out after going into 'limp' mode and completely stopped on a downward facing slip road as if run out of fuel. The AA did recognise that I'd run out of fuel and put in 10L but we couldn't restart, although the engine turned over. Pressure at fuel rail via code reader very low.
I read this from @Nodge68 "When a diesel runs out of fuel, they initially just seem to loose power, as air is drawn in, reducing the fuel throughput and hence the power just drops away. This is a classic symptom of a transfer pump issue, where the fuel pump isn't pumping fuel over the hump in the tank. The fuel level sensor for the gauge is on the opposite side to the engine takeoff, so if the pump doesn't transfer fuel over the hump, the engine feed side runs out of fuel, but the gauge still hows about ¼ full."
I can hear nothing at the transfer pump (under the seat) when I turn the ignition on. Does that all sound like the transfer pump has packed up?
Do I replace that pump
Do I put more fuel in the tank and bleed out the air to get the engine at least started?
Should I check the crank sensor etc as also mentioned?

You’d probably need more fuel than 10l to rule the transfer pump in/out, they have large tanks, and you would need to fill it over ‘the hump’.

I would first change the fuel filter and prime using the correct method… see @Arctic2 write-up and pics below. Then go from there.

The crank sensor is a cheap and easy switch-out, but at this stage the issue is likely fuel related, given the AA said you ran out of fuel!



Post in thread 'Fuel filter Freelander 2'
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/fuel-filter-freelander-2.392245/post-5758199

… and use a genuine ‘Cooper’ filter

Thank @Freddie17 that makes sense. I'm due a service so will replace the fuel filter first, I put a Mann in last time but I'll replace with a Cooper! Thanks for the link to the replacing fuel filter thread.
Do you think I should add more fuel to the tank before priming the filter seeing it was probably dry and just had 10 litres added?
Once I get her started I can then try and resolve any issues which caused the fuel gauage to stick.

RuralTim said:

Thank @Freddie17 that makes sense. I'm due a service so will replace the fuel filter first, I put a Mann in last time but I'll replace with a Cooper! Thanks for the link to the replacing fuel filter thread.
Do you think I should add more fuel to the tank before priming the filter seeing it was probably dry and just had 10 litres added?
Once I get her started I can then try and resolve any issues which caused the fuel gauage to stick.

Click to expand...

If it was me, I would.
You don’t know if the transfer pump is good, so you’ll want to get the fuel over the hump in the tank (so on both sides).
Make sure you prime it once changed.

So back home had a another go, added 25L so 35L in total in the tank. Gauge seems to be working now and shows just under half full. I haven't changed the fuel filter as it hasn't arrived (planned for weekend). I got plenty of fuel to the existing filter through priming. I can see fuel in the tube from filter to the HP fuel pump, but nothing on the other side of the fuel pump. EOBD says the fuel pressure is 240kPa which is too low but it doesn't vary. Only getting 4.5V at the fuel tank transfer pump, think its supposed to be 12V but that may be a red herring.
Is it possible that 'running out' of fuel possibly caused (i.e. I didn't realise the fuel level was critical) by stuck pump in the tank has resulted in the HP fuel pump deciding its had enough and burnt out?
Can you test the HP pump without full removal etc?

Replaced fuel filter and primed. I can rule out the transfer pump and tank now. Fuel coming back through the return line of the filter. Crank but no ignition, I wasn't expecting it to.
Ordered a Camshaft position sensor, hopefully that will come today and I'll replace that just to rule it out, again not expecting that to solve the problem.
Its looking like the HPFP, but before I take that off and replace is there any tests I can do to see whether its working?

Ok - well that’s progress as you are eliminating things as you go, rather than throwing parts at it.
The crank sensor can play up, as can the plug/wires to it.

@Arctic2 or @Nodge68 know far more about the HPFP on a F2 than I ever will.

RuralTim said:

Replaced fuel filter and primed. I can rule out the transfer pump and tank now. Fuel coming back through the return line of the filter. Crank but no ignition, I wasn't expecting it to.
Ordered a Camshaft position sensor, hopefully that will come today and I'll replace that just to rule it out, again not expecting that to solve the problem.
Its looking like the HPFP, but before I take that off and replace is there any tests I can do to see whether its working?

Click to expand...

Have you checked the cam timing hasn't jumped? When was the belt changed?

Cambelt changed at 103k had 63k since (2 years ago)
There was some knocking sounds which sounded like the big end had gone prior it stopping so when the AA said it was fuel issue I was initially relieved, although since I not got it to fire. We (AA) did get a brief ignition after a squirt of Easy Start.
I was a bit concerned the AA was cranking it over a lot when which I was thinking is not going to do the engine any good. No DTC codes relating to engine though.
Taken the HPFP off and decided to put it back on after clean etc. Re primed via the return value on filterWill give another go once the NOCO Boost has charged but not expecting anything. Will probably order a recon HPFP from PF Jones but not cheap so only doing as last resort!
Thanks for aking the time to help @Freddie17 @Nodge68 very much appreciated.

Is the little drive coupler for the HPFP in place? They have been known to brake. The original cast iron exhaust cam has also been known to break. I fitted a later steel cam to mine, to eliminate a potential failure.

Yes the coupler was okay. so i can assume the camshaft is okay? Hopefully!
and no joy after refitting the HPFP, although I didn't expect it too. Next will check the cambelt. I'm not convinced the HPFP is broken.
Going to look at 2 Freelanders tomorrow as I need to get back on the road and I'll work on this one as a project/ spare'n'repair