You have asked whether this is worth fixing but have already made that decision by fixing certain things :confused:
My concern would be knackered gearbox, dodgy clutch, dropped liner, dodgy water pump and thermostat, possible VCU problem,new head gasket on 40,000 mile replacement engine, failed MOT on emissions....... not windows and locking doors.
I understand this is your 1st car. We have all had 1st cars and like most I got emotionally attached to a pile of junk and wasted 1,000's on it.
Trade it in
 
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LAND ROVER FREELANDER FRONT RIGHT DRIVER SIDE WINDOW REGULATOR 1998-06 *NEW* | eBay

This is the one i went for. Seems well built, saved the hassle of just trying to fit a new cable to my old rails. Just unbolted my motor from the old one and attached it to this. Nice and smooth motion, but i think the motor isn't that great anyway as it's always been slower going back up than the passenger window. The window goes up and down now though and doesn't drop of it's own accord when going over speed bumps :lol:

Never been to a scrapyard before, do i just search for local ones to loughborough and turn up, then go hunting for bits? How does it work?

You could phone up your local ones and see if they have any Freelanders there. Then you take a tool bag and remove the bits yourself. They might remove them for you, or have them sitting on a shelf too.

I would also visit 1stChoice.co.uk (sorry, got the URL wrong), where you enter the part required, and they send this to their network of scrapyards around the UK. You get emailed with quotes. I've used it before.
 
All of those things are fixable by yourself if your handy with tools. Being an owner of both a 1.8 and KV6, the 1.8 is pretty simple to work on, having worked on the KV6 including having done the timing belts with the kit and removing the engine with auto box attached. For the water leak at back, it's probably the rubber seal that runs from left to right at the top of the tail glass window. It's hidden from view by the piece of black plastic exterior trim, just look underneath that trim and you'll see that rubber. That is supposed to be flush with the glass and seal but over time the seal weakens. The correct way is to remove the trim piece and renew a few components i think there are also several lokut nuts. A far easier way to do it, that worked for me, is that run a bead of suitable RTV sealant, use the appropriate sealant, black in colour to match the seal, suitable for outdoors and glass/rubber/weatherstripping, along that rubber seal. Let the sealant set and once it fully cures, it will solve the leak. The sealant will replenish the seal where it has failed. Note, your leak could be from other sources but this is where mine was coming from.The sealant won't be visible as it will be hidden by the plastic trim piece just like the rubber seal. Buy an RTV that comes with that plastic applicator funnel what the term is i'm stumped..! The applicator things let's you zero in at tiny places like the area underneath the plastic trim where that seal is.

If you have a slipped liner, then this is what I recommend if you want the 1.8 Freelander to be a reliable ride for you. Remove the block and head, buy 4 new liners, and take the block and head to a good engine reconditioner. They can machine the head + block and fit the new liners as well as seal them. They will also advise whether the block should be scrapped or whether they can pack new liners and machine it, good to go, etc. While at it, they can also fit the new MLS head gasket with new oil rail and head bolts. Then you can do the water pump and thermostat, etc, when you get the motor back. Most of the other issues are lesser, that is the central one, the liners. If one liner has slipped, it will cause you all sorts of issues unless you get it addressed. It will probably also be loosing coolant as the liner seal will have been damaged (the freelander uses wet liners, thus seal between coolant and liners) thus overheating.

That's where i would start.

Is it worth fixing? I would say yes as it can be fun knowing you have done a lot yourself, and pretty satisfying driving it afterwards knowing you have fixed a lot of it yourself. That's my opinion though, and that comes from someone who owns 2 Freelanders the KV6 and a 1.8.
 
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For the awkward gear change reverse, I would take a punt and say it's the clutch hydraulics based on my experiences, change the clutch hydraulics i would recommend a land rover genuine one based on experience. As for the judder, possibly the clutch release bearing, i have heard from others that aftermarket ones cause judder. Change the clutch plate and disc, the kit is cheaper. It could be other things but it could also be these. The clunk or noise when coming off a speed bump i havent experienced on my ones, i'd say get a suspension specialist for that one.
 
If you have a slipped liner, then this is what I recommend if you want the 1.8 Freelander to be a reliable ride for you. Remove the block and head, buy 4 new liners, and take the block and head to a good engine reconditioner. They can machine the head + block and fit the new liners as well as seal them. They will also advise whether the block should be scrapped or whether they can pack new liners and machine it, good to go, etc. While at it, they can also fit the new MLS head gasket with new oil rail and head bolts. Then you can do the water pump and thermostat, etc, when you get the motor back. Most of the other issues are lesser, that is the central one, the liners. If one liner has slipped, it will cause you all sorts of issues unless you get it addressed. It will probably also be loosing coolant as the liner seal will have been damaged (the freelander uses wet liners, thus seal between coolant and liners) thus overheating.
Seriously ???? You're talking a £1000+ for this alone and you'd have to be more than a bit " handy with tools".
 
From my experience of freelanders, I'd stick in the classifieds as spares or repairs. I can't wait to get rid of mine.
 
You have asked whether this is worth fixing but have already made that decision by fixing certain things :confused:
My concern would be knackered gearbox, dodgy clutch, dropped liner, dodgy water pump and thermostat, possible VCU problem,new head gasket on 40,000 mile replacement engine, failed MOT on emissions....... not windows and locking doors.
I understand this is your 1st car. We have all had 1st cars and like most I got emotionally attached to a pile of junk and wasted 1,000's on it.
Trade it in

I'm not even sure what to say to that. Half of it isn't true and the other half isn't relevant to what i've asked. Kinda seems like you're twisting things in order to have a go at me.

You could phone up your local ones and see if they have any Freelanders there. Then you take a tool bag and remove the bits yourself. They might remove them for you, or have them sitting on a shelf too.

I would also visit 1stChoice.co.uk (sorry, got the URL wrong), where you enter the part required, and they send this to their network of scrapyards around the UK. You get emailed with quotes. I've used it before.

That sounds like a good day out! haha. I googled the name when the link didn't work and had a look at the site but using my phone at the minute so will have a proper look later when i get to a computer, cheers for that!

All of those things are fixable by yourself if your handy with tools. Being an owner of both a 1.8 and KV6, the 1.8 is pretty simple to work on, having worked on the KV6 including having done the timing belts with the kit and removing the engine with auto box attached. For the water leak at back, it's probably the rubber seal that runs from left to right at the top of the tail glass window. It's hidden from view by the piece of black plastic exterior trim, just look underneath that trim and you'll see that rubber. That is supposed to be flush with the glass and seal but over time the seal weakens. The correct way is to remove the trim piece and renew a few components i think there are also several lokut nuts. A far easier way to do it, that worked for me, is that run a bead of suitable RTV sealant, use the appropriate sealant, black in colour to match the seal, suitable for outdoors and glass/rubber/weatherstripping, along that rubber seal. Let the sealant set and once it fully cures, it will solve the leak. The sealant will replenish the seal where it has failed. Note, your leak could be from other sources but this is where mine was coming from.The sealant won't be visible as it will be hidden by the plastic trim piece just like the rubber seal. Buy an RTV that comes with that plastic applicator funnel what the term is i'm stumped..! The applicator things let's you zero in at tiny places like the area underneath the plastic trim where that seal is.

If you have a slipped liner, then this is what I recommend if you want the 1.8 Freelander to be a reliable ride for you. Remove the block and head, buy 4 new liners, and take the block and head to a good engine reconditioner. They can machine the head + block and fit the new liners as well as seal them. They will also advise whether the block should be scrapped or whether they can pack new liners and machine it, good to go, etc. While at it, they can also fit the new MLS head gasket with new oil rail and head bolts. Then you can do the water pump and thermostat, etc, when you get the motor back. Most of the other issues are lesser, that is the central one, the liners. If one liner has slipped, it will cause you all sorts of issues unless you get it addressed. It will probably also be loosing coolant as the liner seal will have been damaged (the freelander uses wet liners, thus seal between coolant and liners) thus overheating.

That's where i would start.

Is it worth fixing? I would say yes as it can be fun knowing you have done a lot yourself, and pretty satisfying driving it afterwards knowing you have fixed a lot of it yourself. That's my opinion though, and that comes from someone who owns 2 Freelanders the KV6 and a 1.8.

To be honest, that sounds pretty specialist.... and pricey! What can i expect if the liner has dropped a tiny bit? To be honest they seemed more concerned by the scoring of the liner than it dropping.


For the awkward gear change reverse, I would take a punt and say it's the clutch hydraulics based on my experiences, change the clutch hydraulics i would recommend a land rover genuine one based on experience. As for the judder, possibly the clutch release bearing, i have heard from others that aftermarket ones cause judder. Change the clutch plate and disc, the kit is cheaper. It could be other things but it could also be these. The clunk or noise when coming off a speed bump i havent experienced on my ones, i'd say get a suspension specialist for that one.

The clutch was replaced a couple of years back. My dad reckons the one that was fitted was a cheap one and he said it juddered ever since he had it replaced. Is there a chance that the car doesn't have a bad VCU but has a bad clutch and thats why it doesn't like reversing or pulling away in st smoothly sometimes?
 
I think you are trying to convince yoself that it is ok.

Fine - it is your money. dont say you werent warned. :eek:.
 
After all i, and others have said/advised. I think it's really like this..

Who cares if the VCU etc maybe stuffed!?...as long as it physically moves and stops and keeps your ass off the ground..who really cares? (am not havin a pop at you either).

Enjoy your life, don't be worrying about this an that, its just a bleeding car. Get yourself a nice bird and just chill out, get some money behind you, and get something else when it goes pop.

The hippo WILL eat you out of house and home eventually. This sort of thing (ie rescuing stricken hippo's) is the sort of thing you might want to do when your older with a few bob behind you..as a hobby, not a necessity.

God!, i sound like a Jewish mother...already!

And you don't eat properly!!...lol!:p
 
I think you are trying to convince yoself that it is ok.

Fine - it is your money. dont say you werent warned. :eek:.

How did you get to that? I asked you what the correct test was for the VCU, i didnt say it was okay.

If the VCU is gone i'll remove it and run 2wd until the engine dies. All i'm asking is what's the correct test, 1.2m with 5kg? And what are the good result ranges?

Also, what can i expect if the liners have indeed dropped/scored? Coolant loss? Bad performance? Loss of mpg? Engine overheating for no reason?
 
After all i, and others have said/advised. I think it's really like this..

Who cares if the VCU etc maybe stuffed!?...as long as it physically moves and stops and keeps your ass off the ground..who really cares? (am not havin a pop at you either).

Enjoy your life, don't be worrying about this an that, its just a bleeding car. Get yourself a nice bird and just chill out, get some money behind you, and get something else when it goes pop.

The hippo WILL eat you out of house and home eventually. This sort of thing (ie rescuing stricken hippo's) is the sort of thing you might want to do when your older with a few bob behind you..as a hobby, not a necessity.

God!, i sound like a Jewish mother...already!

And you don't eat properly!!...lol!:p

Haha, got a bird and a house and a cat. But i do eat badly :lol:

Like i said, if i can find out if the VCU is toast i'll take it off and run it 2wd. If its okay i'll leave it as is and have a bash at off roading it until the engine may or may not explode. I'd just be a bit annoyed if the engine kept going past the VCU/IRD writing the car off. Lets face it, if any of us wanted a decent sensible car we'd be driving a ford focus.
 
How did you get to that? I asked you what the correct test was for the VCU, i didnt say it was okay. neither did I

If the VCU is gone i'll remove it and run 2wd until the engine dies. All i'm asking is what's the correct test, 1.2m with 5kg? yes And what are the good result ranges? we dont know - its a comparative test - see the results thread

Also, what can i expect if the liners have indeed dropped/scored? Coolant loss? Bad performance? Loss of mpg? Engine overheating for no reason? yes


answers in red
 
answers in red

That's the 40 odd page thread? I'm not trying to be funny but that thing is a mess! I read as much of it as i could last night and it's just a jumble of people doing the test in different ways to each other. Some used 5kg, some used 8kg, some people even had different results by quite a few seconds using the same test twice. I only found a spread sheet with 4 peoples results on it and they varied massively. UNless i missed like the single most important post on there it just reinforced the idea that nobody has a clue when the thing is going to fail or not.

So for now, the car has had the head gasket, water pump, thermostat and head bolts replaced, coolant system flushed, fresh oil, fresh coolant. The VCU is unkown, theres a couple of small faults but aside from that it's plenty driveable.

I guess i'm just going to have to run it into the ground without spending another penny on it!
 
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Haha, got a bird and a house and a cat. But i do eat badly :lol:

Like i said, if i can find out if the VCU is toast i'll take it off and run it 2wd. If its okay i'll leave it as is and have a bash at off roading it until the engine may or may not explode. I'd just be a bit annoyed if the engine kept going past the VCU/IRD writing the car off. Lets face it, if any of us wanted a decent sensible car we'd be driving a ford focus.

See!, i was right about something!...you don't eat properly! (i should care already!)..lol!.

I cant help you kris with the VCU bar test figures. What you could try is this.

Find some mud...drive into said mud, wind your new working window down and look at the rear tyre. Gun it on a slippy hill, and watch how long it takes the rear wheels to start to spin. It should be around 2 seconds. If it does the vcu is ok...Less its overly stiff, more and its overly slack. Then just put the subject to bed. (crazy plan, but it's fun and cheap). If it's stuffed, rip it off and go 2wd.

Liner problems?:..Missfire,water loss,boiling over,low mpg. You WILL know when that happens somehow. Liner scored?...may use more oil..blow some smoke out the back/foul a plug. Wouldn't worry about either until it happens.
 
That's the 40 odd page thread? I'm not trying to be funny but that thing is a mess! I read as much of it as i could last night and it's just a jumble of people doing the test in different ways to each other. Some used 5kg, some used 8kg, some people even had different results by quite a few seconds using the same test twice. I only found a spread sheet with 4 peoples results on it and they varied massively. UNless i missed like the single most important post on there it just reinforced the idea that nobody has a clue when the thing is going to fail or not.

So for now, the car has had the head gasket, water pump, thermostat and head bolts replaced, coolant system flushed, fresh oil, fresh coolant. The VCU is unkown, theres a couple of small faults but aside from that it's plenty driveable.

I guess i'm just going to have to run it into the ground without spending another penny on it!


Do your own thing then - I am out of here - you dont listen to what peeps have said - just pick holes and slag peeps off.
 
See!, i was right about something!...you don't eat properly! (i should care already!)..lol!.

I cant help you kris with the VCU bar test figures. What you could try is this.

Find some mud...drive into said mud, wind your new working window down and look at the rear tyre. Gun it on a slippy hill, and watch how long it takes the rear wheels to start to spin. It should be around 2 seconds. If it does the vcu is ok...Less its overly stiff, more and its overly slack. Then just put the subject to bed. (crazy plan, but it's fun and cheap). If it's stuffed, rip it off and go 2wd.

Liner problems?:..Missfire,water loss,boiling over,low mpg. You WILL know when that happens somehow. Liner scored?...may use more oil..blow some smoke out the back/foul a plug. Wouldn't worry about either until it happens.

Haha, sounds like a great test! The newly working window bit cracked me up by the way :p Facing up the hill i take it? Gives me a reason to set the gopro up as well haha
 
Do your own thing then - I am out of here - you dont listen to what peeps have said - just pick holes and slag peeps off.

No need to be such a grumpy old sod. I haven't slagged anyone off by the way, but people have said contradicting things and then you've gotten moody when i asked more questions.
 
Haha, sounds like a great test! The newly working window bit cracked me up by the way :p Facing up the hill i take it? Gives me a reason to set the gopro up as well haha

Yup, get the Hero whatever number you have on the case!....and the bird...but maybe not the cat! :p

Facing up the hill would be very good. This is how my old 2000 Hippo reacts, and it has a genuine L/R replacement VCU (2k old).
 
Yup, get the Hero whatever number you have on the case!....and the bird...but maybe not the cat! :p

Facing up the hill would be very good. This is how my old 2000 Hippo reacts, and it has a genuine L/R replacement VCU (2k old).

I dunno, catcam might end up being pretty good :lol:
 

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