You mean aside from making this gem of a thread asking what to do because someone on ebay used your picture? Yeah, that couldn't have been googled at all :p:rolleyes:

I'm confused now. I thought you two had kissed and made up and Diesel Do was being helpful again. Why are you slagging him off?
 
That is what I like about this forum. Knowledgeable people willing to share their knowledge. Without it I wouldn't have known about VCU issues and would probably be looking at a large bill very soon.
When you are expert at something it is easy to forget what it was like when you were a beginner.
I do agree though that many people want to be spoon fed answers without any effort on their part, and often don't even bother to respond to answers, so a wee pointer at the search button is no bad thing.


Well said ;)
 
e2f9e68e778f73287c7d23a1d2685363.jpg

Shims
368fb5e39b1f70c6c3d524896f9ea7d2.jpg

Wet liner
82e70d3084eb4a1142b99cb395717e32.jpg

Block with liners and Pistons
3d172e7842c79cb1ae5d27461ffb0295.jpg

Block liners and Pistons removed
 
I'm confused now. I thought you two had kissed and made up and Diesel Do was being helpful again. Why are you slagging him off?

It was supposed to be a light hearted ****-take (hence the stick out tongue). Man it's hard working you guys out on here! This is a very confusing forum :lol:

If you want help don't have a dig!
It's a wet liner engine so no machining work needed. You can just pull them out the top complete with the piston. Obviously you need to remove the sump to. The garage sounds like a run of the mill one that isn't that specialised in the k series so aren't that up on their foibles and can't use google either

e2f9e68e778f73287c7d23a1d2685363.jpg

Shims
368fb5e39b1f70c6c3d524896f9ea7d2.jpg

Wet liner
82e70d3084eb4a1142b99cb395717e32.jpg

Block with liners and Pistons
3d172e7842c79cb1ae5d27461ffb0295.jpg

Block liners and Pistons removed

That's incredible, first google result showed them up. I can't believe they didn't do that! The place was a landrover specialist supposedly, but like you say. clearly not that clued up on that particular engine. You've no idea how grateful i am to your help, i've really learnt a lot! One more question though, do the liners and pistons have to be size matched or anything? Seen a couple of replacement liners for k series engines on ebay so if it's as easy as slotting one out, dropping some shims in and putting the new one in then i might be taking it back to the garage.
 
You don't oversize them like normal engines when you rebore them. You do a like for like replacement ie for a 1.8
 
You don't oversize them like normal engines when you rebore them. You do a like for like replacement ie for a 1.8

That lost me a little. Do you mean a normal engine doesn't use a liner, it uses pistons that need to be replaced with larger diameter pistons when any damage occurs and needs to be bored out of the cylinder head? But the 1.8k uses liners which can just be straight swapped out as all the pistons are the same size?
 
That lost me a little. Do you mean a normal engine doesn't use a liner, it uses pistons that need to be replaced with larger diameter pistons when any damage occurs and needs to be bored out of the cylinder head? But the 1.8k uses liners which can just be straight swapped out as all the pistons are the same size?


You've more or less got it. It's the block you bore out to put bigger Pistons in. The head gets skimmed if it's warped
 
You've more or less got it. It's the block you bore out to put bigger Pistons in. The head gets skimmed if it's warped

Okay. Thanks again mate, paints a much clearer picture of what is going on under my hood now.

I'll keep an eye out at the newark autojumble sale tomorrow on the ridiculously small chance that someone is selling some liners and VCU's :lol:
 
Well there you go. It's got a blown head gasket but otherwise ok. Hope to collect it tomorrow. I have a list of bits I want the rest will be up for offers
 
Hey guys, done the VCU test and posted the results. With the vcu a little warm (driven 5-6 miles about 2 hours before test) it was around 45-50 seconds to pass through 45 degrees to horizontal. Later this evening, around 4 hours after it was driven it's just done the same test in around 58 seconds. I've got a long trip in a week or two so i think i'm just going to remove the propshafts and VCU to save the hassle/worry about it.

While under there though i noticed my rear diff center mount is completely toast. I can shift it up and down through the center of the mount. Yay! :D

Imagine that rotated 90 degrees to the right. You can see where it's knocked against what i presume is the underneath of the fuel tank. Is there supposed to be quite so much grease smeared about as i've got there? If i push up on the propshaft it seems to have a small amount of play at that joint, also when rotating the wheels the cv joint/diff joint feels quite grindy. It certainly doesn't feel smooth to rotate. Are there any bearings in there that would need replacing/regreasing?
20150311_173335.jpg


It isn't dripping when parked up so i wouldn't say it's a fast leak, but i haven't checked the oil level yet in the diff itself.
 
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Hopefully the propshaft will stop fouling the tank when you replace the diff mounts - do them as a set. You seem to have a leaky diff pinion flange seal so:
1. Check the diff breather tube isn't blocked.
2. Check the diff oil level
3. Consider replacing the seal.
 
Hopefully the propshaft will stop fouling the tank when you replace the diff mounts - do them as a set. You seem to have a leaky diff pinion flange seal so:
1. Check the diff breather tube isn't blocked.
2. Check the diff oil level
3. Consider replacing the seal.

Thanks mate, will take a look today/tomorrow and post back how it goes.
 

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