brian510

brian510

New Member
Hi guys and thank God ( who ever your God is) this forum exists!

I hope one of you may be able to help. As I have tried what I can and don't want to call the garage out as I am a bit low on cash (like many!)

Vehicle in question: 2000 (w reg) P38 vogue 4.6 petrol only 'bout 98k on clock.

I have briefly searched the forum, and looked elsewhere. But non seem to have exactly whats happened....


Alarm has been triggering. able to unlock vehicle -via key fob buttons - no message about low batteries, start engine, alarm still screaming! ....oh god what now I thought....

To stop this, as I had no tools available at the time, I disconnected the sounder (multiplug at the rear of the sounder). Key locked vehicle.

Allowed ears to recover from being blasted ...

The battery had drained when I went back to the vehicle the next morning. Ie totally flat.- clock not correct etc.

Ah, I thought after researching the web. The infamousovernight drain.

So, I removed the battery recharged it, Connected correct method. As usual all hell breaks loose with message center telling you to set the windows etc. But this time it also said *KEY CODE LOCKOUT*.

Now I had not tried to use the EULK at all. Only tried to start the vehicle! as per normal. Never had this before when replacing the battery.

(JEES, car I am your owner!!!)

So I have tried the EULK. No joy car will unlock ok , can get to ignition on, but engine fails to start, just turns over.

Locked vehicle with key. Left overnight. Tried again - no joy as previous, engine only turns-over.

OK, I thought @#%$$ . So, I removed battery terminals again (following the official handbook method as usual). Reconnected battery. Went through the EULK sequence again. No joy.

Just to make sure. If the car is locked with the key. I have to do the Lock four times, Then go through the four digit lock/unlock sequence right?

HELLLLLLPPPPP!

My apologies for the language and style but things have been "difficuilt" lately! and this "event" is the last straw. I hope you ca understand my blithering.:D
 
Hi Brian.
Most people on here are of the opinion that you will need to take it to a LR mechanic, doesnt have to be official but does need to be plugged in apparently. I'll have a look on my cd but i don't know if it will help.

Cheers,Nick.
 
Hi Brian.
It seems that because your battery voltage dropped rather than was disconnected it needs to be reset, I think "wills" told me about this but someone else will post in a mo to clarify i'm sure. Where are you in the world.

Cheers, Nick.
 
njh said:
Hi Brian.
Most people on here are of the opinion that you will need to take it to a LR mechanic, doesnt have to be official but does need to be plugged in apparently. I'll have a look on my cd but i don't know if it will help.

Cheers,Nick.
Click to expand...

Cheers Nick, pleased to meet you and thanks for the quick reply.
Yea I thought as much. Trouble is my nearest unofficial is about 15 miles away and cant get there easily. Ill give them a ring and see what the damage might be to get towed there.
 
njh said:
Hi Brian.
It seems that because your battery voltage dropped rather than was disconnected it needs to be reset, I think "wills" told me about this but someone else will post in a mo to clarify i'm sure. Where are you in the world.

Cheers, Nick.
Click to expand...

Just outside Trowbridge (Wilts) about 15 miles from Bath. Rural! retreat.
 
Your welcome.
See if it would cost less for them to bring the laptop to you, even if you tip them handsomly. Eightinavee is in that area and he's really good. I've got his no at work or you could private message him.

Cheers, Nick.
 
Nick.

Yea, that's a good idea. Thanks for the prompt.

I might nick my wife's car and run down there Monday and ask nicely. Failing that I think I might ask a guy in a local dairy merchant I used to deal with that's got a P38. Sounds like its a common problem.
 
If the engine is cranking then the Becm is mobilised,if the check engine light does not come on when you switch the ignition on then the engine ecu is not recognising the security code from the Becm.This is a coded square wave pulse,the car needs to go on Testbook to put the engine Ecu into learn mode to get it to re-learn it.Until this is done your engine will not run.
 
Thanks eightinavee

Just been and checked the CHECK ENGINE icon DOES light. Engine cranks but does not start.

??
 
Ok,you need to start looking at sparks and wether you have any fuel pressure,back to basics ! The fuel pump should be able to be heard running for at least a couple of seconds after you key on - or are cranking.The test port for fuel pressure is hard to get at - it is in the lh rear of the Vee and is a schrader,(tyre valve type) port. Look for at least 30psi whilst cranking.Cant remember the exact pressure,but that would be enough to get it started.It is a constant pressure system,not regulated by manifold depression like the earlier ones.Sparks are easy to check at the leads,so either no fuel or no spark.If you have both then we need to start getting a bit more involved.;)
 
eightinavee said:
Ok,you need to start looking at sparks and wether you have any fuel pressure,back to basics ! The fuel pump should be able to be heard running for at least a couple of seconds after you key on - or are cranking.The test port for fuel pressure is hard to get at - it is in the lh rear of the Vee and is a schrader,(tyre valve type) port. Look for at least 30psi whilst cranking.Cant remember the exact pressure,but that would be enough to get it started.It is a constant pressure system,not regulated by manifold depression like the earlier ones.Sparks are easy to check at the leads,so either no fuel or no spark.If you have both then we need to start getting a bit more involved.;)
Click to expand...

Thanks again eightinavee

I'm no mechanic, or have much in the way of equipment I'm afraid! Tho' not afraid to try!

Will listen and look for sparks tho'

Given that the car engine ran perfectly before the alarm started playing up do you think its maybe more related to the vehicle security er mishap!?
 
Shouldnt be ,because the car cranks the Becm is mobilised,because the check engine light comes on the Motronic Engine Ecu is recognising the security pulse from the Becm.So as far as that lot goes it should start.Did it fire at all ? Your local garage should be able to tell you why it wont go - esp as you can assure them it is not an immobilisation issue.
 
eightinavee said:
Shouldnt be ,because the car cranks the Becm is mobilised,because the check engine light comes on the Motronic Engine Ecu is recognising the security pulse from the Becm.So as far as that lot goes it should start.Did it fire at all ? Your local garage should be able to tell you why it wont go - esp as you can assure them it is not an immobilisation issue.
Click to expand...

Ok your logic seem good!

No there was No firing, just cranking its heart out.

When it stops pouring down I will check for a spark.

I will go to the garage tomorrow and see them.

In the meantime, my grateful thanks for your fantastic help.
Not sure what I can do in return tho'...

I may be back v soon Monday, hope you don't mind!
 
Pay me when I come out and fix it or when the Rac/AA recover it to me !
I have a busy week booked in but if you are stuck I should be able to sort it for you.Got to nip out to Bristol Airport now,let me know if you need any help.
 
eightinavee said:
Pay me when I come out and fix it or when the Rac/AA recover it to me !
I have a busy week booked in but if you are stuck I should be able to sort it for you.Got to nip out to Bristol Airport now,let me know if you need any help.
Click to expand...

Yes OK I do have a lot of chocolate about. I did have a chocolate business till we recently moved house.....

bist going to Brisl airport my babber?!
 
Well. My friendly local independent RR chaps has been with the laptop.

The car had confused codes. He reset that and my beloved RR started. Its possible that a near by neighbour who has had a remote garage door fitted could be the er culprit (if that does not sound unfair).

Me thinks "lets wander round in the dead of night with the wire cutters" !

Anyway my thanks to eightinavee and njh for your help and support on getting this sorted.

Suppose I had better save up and replace the RF receiver unit.
Anyone know how much they might be and the 'best' source?

Cheers for now (fingers crossed all is ok here)

Brian
 
brian510 said:
Suppose I had better save up and replace the RF receiver unit.
Anyone know how much they might be and the 'best' source?
Click to expand...

Brian,

I had to do this 2 weeks after I got mp P38 back in January 2007 as I got stranded at two car parks, once at Blue Water and secondly at Bexelyheath multi-storey.

The thing to remember is that the original RF receiver (Part Number AFR1953), will never come up on a testbook as a fault. The RF receiver is doing what it was made to do. Therefore LR will never suggest to the unsuspecting P38 owner that it needs to be urgently replaced. Most LR dealers really only want to sell NEW LR's and your P38 is the least of their problems. My LR dealer was more than willing to let me continue to come back every so often due to flat batteries or my being engine disabled than actually try and cure my problem. It wasnt after research and talk with other P38 owners that I was told that it solved by simply replacing the RF receiver part number YWY500170.

Ever since I have replaced it, I have had no problems since. I also replaced my P38's original 80amp alternator with an upgraded 120amp version. This also has improved the performance and reliability. When you realise the P38 has a number of electrical goodies to play with, the standard 80amp isnt quite up to the job.

Also are your key fobs OK? If they are very old, it makes sense to order a new key fob. Yes I know it costs £115 each but again you dont want to be caught out miles away with a dead fob. mine did and I had to get the RAC out and take me home to collect my spare, blipped it and it worked.

As for the cost of the NEW RF receiver (part number YWY500170), it cost me £145 inc VAT for the part plus labour which worked out to be £200 ish. I kicked up such a stink about the fact that the original part was defective from day one and that LR only admitted it in 2004 two years fater the last P38 rolled off the production line, that they waivered the labour cost. Therefore I only paid for the part (£145).

Try it....you may also get lucky!
 
Thanks for that Adamforeman.

Its a shame that the manufacturer of such 'quality' vehicles has (had) to reluctantly admit to such faults. You'd think they would want to be proactive, and get the confidence of owners. Not perhaps to do a call back to replace, but just a "heads up" to people to inform them of potential failures..

Ho hum, any way, I will be trying to find that part. I think I may keep both key fobs handy too! Good point about the alternator too.

By the way, have you had any experience of the auto-box being reluctant to change up to 4th? Mine has started that game. It will change as low as 35mph, but that depends on where it is! Usually its 45-50 now before it changes up. Previously it changed at 30 etc. It all started after it had been stood for a week or so about 5 months ago. I realise that 4th is an overdrive but I guess Im getting paranoid recently. Don't suppose its as simple as a box oil change?

Dang car knows I'm skint at the mo.

Cheers

Brian
 
Probably not much help with the auto box, but my Classic used to "clonk a lot on change down" When I had a 24,000 service from LR specialists (not main dealers ex-army very honest chaps) There is a filter in the auto box that costs £100 (just for the filter) Not many garages bother to replace this, but once replaced the changes up and down were as smooth as a babys bottom (I hope I am allowed to say that). This may or may not apply to your 4th gear change up. Just an idea I thought I'd throw in .

regards
G
 
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