newbielandy said:
Stop it with that foul language! 🤣
Click to expand...

indeed, bet ur pleased u bought a 4.4 instead of a 2.7 that has the crank issue ,

hopefully it’s a simple fix , ie if possibly one of the front cv joints have let go and therefore no drive

I did also wonder if the low/ high transfer box had gone into neutral somehow , but of course will know a lot more once it’s looked at in the day light
 
gstuart said:
indeed, bet ur pleased u bought a 4.4 instead of a 2.7 that has the crank issue ,

hopefully it’s a simple fix , ie if possibly one of the front cv joints have let go and therefore no drive

I did also wonder if the low/ high transfer box had gone into neutral somehow , but of course will know a lot more once it’s looked at in the day light
Click to expand...
Found this on d3 forum r.e tbox calibration

Calibration can be carried out using the service tool or by following this procedure:
* Switch ignition to position II without the engine running
* Select automatic or manual transmission neutral
* Depress the throttle pedal fully
* Press and hold the range change switch for 5 or more seconds to allow calibration to start
* When the calibration is heard to start, the switch and throttle pedal can be released
* Upon adopting high range, start the engine and wait 30 seconds while the first calibration of the clutch in high range is done.
While this calibration process is in progress, no shifting is accepted
* Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds
* Start engine
* Perform a range change to low range. Wait 30 seconds while the first calibration of the clutch in low range is done.
While this calibration process is in progress, no shifting is accepted
* Switch ignition off and wait 15 seconds
* Range and clutch calibration is now complete

Worth a go if no obvious mechanical failure?
 
Henshall is booked until August so im going to contact another tomorr
gstuart said:
indeed, bet ur pleased u bought a 4.4 instead of a 2.7 that has the crank issue ,

hopefully it’s a simple fix , ie if possibly one of the front cv joints have let go and therefore no drive

I did also wonder if the low/ high transfer box had gone into neutral somehow , but of course will know a lot more once it’s looked at in the day light
Click to expand...
Very pleased from what ive heard about the dreaded crank! Shes also LPG converted so ive got the best of both worlds there..........Apart from the fact she doesnt move 🤦‍♀️
 
newbielandy said:
Hi low switch not doesnt do anything.
Neutral is how i had to push it off the road 😭.
Click to expand...

that’s weird , has it always been like that or have u never tried to put it into low gear plse

assume u have the same as in the picture which I showed in an earlier post

have u ever tried the terrain response dial or haven’t needed it

it’s the mention of the grinding noise that is a red flag so to speak , in the daylight have a look underneath ti see if any of the front driveshaft are hanging Down , particularly by the rubber CV boots , along with ensuring the Propshaft is also ok

will be interesting to see what the final conclusion is and indeed plse let us know how u get on
 
Yes sorry same as photo ive never really used the terrain responses or anything like that.
Engine was on and nuetral to push it out of the road. Still had full control of power steering.
I will look tomorrow , i will definately keep you all posted. :)
 
L322 but same symptoms with grinding into park

'I am a proud owner of a 2002 L322 3.0 tdv6 and have had nothing but trouble!! I have a Transfer box neutral error message, I can select a gear but as stated no drive. When the engine is running and I try to put it in park a can here a grinding noise.'

Sorted by doing this

'
Fuse position 37 (in the glovebox) should be empty. It's only used to force the transfer box shift motor to select (transfer box) neutral when the vehicle has to be towed on all four wheels if you're broken down. You can try to use it here to reset the transfer box ECU so it learns where it's shift fork is :



Phil
ShiftMotorCalibration.jpg

'

Obv different model so prob different fusebox but tbox recalibrate for that model was carried out. Hopefully if procedure I posted above for D3 is done might see result. Unless somethings flapping in the wind of course
 
1988smithy said:
L322 but same symptoms with grinding into park

'I am a proud owner of a 2002 L322 3.0 tdv6 and have had nothing but trouble!! I have a Transfer box neutral error message, I can select a gear but as stated no drive. When the engine is running and I try to put it in park a can here a grinding noise.'

Sorted by doing this

'
Fuse position 37 (in the glovebox) should be empty. It's only used to force the transfer box shift motor to select (transfer box) neutral when the vehicle has to be towed on all four wheels if you're broken down. You can try to use it here to reset the transfer box ECU so it learns where it's shift fork is :



Phil
ShiftMotorCalibration.jpg

'

Obv different model so prob different fusebox but tbox recalibrate for that model was carried out. Hopefully if procedure I posted above for D3 is done might see result. Unless somethings flapping in the wind of course
Click to expand...
Just been looking at the fuse box diagrams myself. Even if i can get it moving temporarily id be happy atm need to move it off that street. Worth a shot anyway thanks for the advice :)
 
1988smithy said:
L322 but same symptoms with grinding into park

'I am a proud owner of a 2002 L322 3.0 tdv6 and have had nothing but trouble!! I have a Transfer box neutral error message, I can select a gear but as stated no drive. When the engine is running and I try to put it in park a can here a grinding noise.'

Sorted by doing this

'
Fuse position 37 (in the glovebox) should be empty. It's only used to force the transfer box shift motor to select (transfer box) neutral when the vehicle has to be towed on all four wheels if you're broken down. You can try to use it here to reset the transfer box ECU so it learns where it's shift fork is :



Phil
ShiftMotorCalibration.jpg

'

Obv different model so prob different fusebox but tbox recalibrate for that model was carried out. Hopefully if procedure I posted above for D3 is done might see result. Unless somethings flapping in the wind of course
Click to expand...

just checked and alas fuse 37 on the D3 is for the Dynamic Stability Control

know on the D3 when the terrain response if put into rock crawl mode the hi / low box is then used

to select , engine running , foot on brake , gear lever into neutral then either hi or low can be selected

if the brakes start to apply round corners the DSC can be over ridden with pushing a button in on the dashboard

due to the grinding does seem to come back to a CV driveshaft or centre prop spline

admittedly seeing the low green dashboard symbol light up I confess I first thought that maybe the transfer box had gone into low by accident but does make more sense wits regards to the CV / prop etc

at least with a new day we should be able to find out what the issue was
 
newbielandy said:
Just been looking at the fuse box diagrams myself. Even if i can get it moving temporarily id be happy atm need to move it off that street. Worth a shot anyway thanks for the advice :)
Click to expand...

also hope u mind me adding but as it’s an automatic and full time 4 x wheel drive please ensure knowone tries to tow it, only way that can be transported is on a flat bed lorry

would just hate for someone to come along and try and tow it causing untold damage to it
 
1988smithy said:
@marjon you might be onto something

Surely the garage would've checked propshafts and cv joints even with it on the ground??
Click to expand...

Well you would think they would look at the easy stuff first.

yes as you know about the props eating the spline, think we also had somebody where a drive shaft had not been fully located and came out so loosing drive.
As the arms have recently be done it sort of throws a flag to check.

why all the lights I don’t know. But may have something to do with the gearbox shafts are turning something but the wheel speed sensors are giving no feedback so it’s brain says something is wrong. But even with fault it should still move.
not sure if a seized hi/lo would make a diff as it’s in 1 position and seizes?
And as we have now lost control of the CDL it’s not possible to lock it manually. Like in the early models.

J
 
Im actually beginning to think its not been looked at properly. Earliest appointment is end of August for local specialist just hoping i can get it moved off the road so i can have a proper look under it and at the fuses.
 
newbielandy said:
Im actually beginning to think its not been looked at properly. Earliest appointment is end of August for local specialist just hoping i can get it moved off the road so i can have a proper look under it and at the fuses.
Click to expand...
If it's not safe where it is. It's best to pay someone to move it to where it will be safe while waiting for a specialist to become available.
 
Ok update for you all.

Got in it, put it in nuetral with foot on the brake holded down the low shift selector control for 10seconds. It made a weird clinking noise the light went off waited 30seconds put foot back on the break and selected high transmission and it sounded like it was engaging into gear and then randomly started moving. All lights are off it and seems back to normal.


Its a miracle.....or is it 😂.
 
newbielandy said:
Ok update for you all.

Got in it, put it in nuetral with foot on the brake holded down the low shift selector control for 10seconds. It made a weird clinking noise the light went off waited 30seconds put foot back on the break and selected high transmission and it sounded like it was engaging into gear and then randomly started moving. All lights are off it and seems back to normal.


Its a miracle.....or is it 😂.
Click to expand...

As much as now you can move it somewhere safe which is great, it is not a miracle that should be ignored.

Thanks for letting us know.

J
 
newbielandy said:
Ok update for you all.

Got in it, put it in nuetral with foot on the brake holded down the low shift selector control for 10seconds. It made a weird clinking noise the light went off waited 30seconds put foot back on the break and selected high transmission and it sounded like it was engaging into gear and then randomly started moving. All lights are off it and seems back to normal.


Its a miracle.....or is it 😂.
Click to expand...
Sounds like it lost calibration then and you've sorted it 👍 I would 100% get it plugged in by a good specialist just to preempt anything else
 
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