lol kinda m8, the issue is the lights (head + side) dont come on at all when the switch is made -just the annoying back up alarm sounder going off -not even the full horn + sounder- so the ciggy light doesnt come on at all.

lol i didnt even notice the G's. damn nuts:eek:

Have you checked to make sure that the contacts on the switch haven't melted? The metal contacts are set into plastic which can often melt. When this happens the contacts sink down and then no loner make the connection when the switch is erm.....switched....:rolleyes::eek::D
 
lol yeah, was one of my first thoughts, had the mrs holding the torch at 10pm as i stripped the steering column!

stripped it twice actually, as i tried putting some contact grease in there but that just bridged the contacts so the alarm went off as the switch was off!

iv found 2 or 3 posts on a few sites of ppl having exactly the same prob but none of them has posted to say if / how they fixed it!
 
Hi DTW - thanks for the 'prod'.

I'd forgotten this gem - long time ago and as you saw from my post generated naff all interest at the time......so didn't bother with any more follow up.

Anyhoo - the relay sorted it for a while but it came back so I think was a red herring. I'm really dredging the memory here, but I found that the main lighting feed from the underseat fuse box was giving a 'good continuity' reading on the multimeter, but in fact was breaking down under load.

Ended up with the inevitable conclusion that there was a crack/fault in the main supply from the stalk switch to dim dip resistor under the rh wing - narrowed it down to 'somewhere' along there and couldn't be assed to trace it further - just ran an new fairly heavy duty wire from one to the other cable tied to the existing loom.

Worked fine to this day ..... only sorry the memory is not more detailed.

Hope this helps! A
 
Hi DTW - thanks for the 'prod'.

I'd forgotten this gem - long time ago and as you saw from my post generated naff all interest at the time......so didn't bother with any more follow up.

Anyhoo - the relay sorted it for a while but it came back so I think was a red herring. I'm really dredging the memory here, but I found that the main lighting feed from the underseat fuse box was giving a 'good continuity' reading on the multimeter, but in fact was breaking down under load.

Ended up with the inevitable conclusion that there was a crack/fault in the main supply from the stalk switch to dim dip resistor under the rh wing - narrowed it down to 'somewhere' along there and couldn't be assed to trace it further - just ran an new fairly heavy duty wire from one to the other cable tied to the existing loom.

Worked fine to this day ..... only sorry the memory is not more detailed.

Hope this helps! A

m8 this is A++

i didnt get to the RH wing today so havnt seen the resistor but i'll tear it appart tomorrow

cheers for the help!
 
deaftonewonder-albums-random-picture9912-1280090415-dsc00383-w450-h400.html


-uploading pic-

is this the dim / dip relay?
the relay's on my fuse board, do i need to trace from here to the resistor on the RH wing or the switch to the resitor?!
 
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T'was indeed me! (the other forum was a bit more active and warm and cuddly in those days...) Sounds almost what I remembered too........

Save faffing about with multimeter by just running a loose new wire from the dash to the resistor under the wing top (just hang it out the door and under the bonnet for the test) and see if that fixes the alarm prob? Do a neat and tidy job after that if its the answer.

If I get the chance tomorrow I'll whip the dash off to see where on earth the cable join was - too long ago to remember.... A
 
k, looking at the haynes, there is a splice in the wire from the light switch to the resistor where it changes colour from brown/blue to brown/white.

i wonder if this has come loose............?
 
T'was indeed me! (the other forum was a bit more active and warm and cuddly in those days...) Sounds almost what I remembered too........

Save faffing about with multimeter by just running a loose new wire from the dash to the resistor under the wing top (just hang it out the door and under the bonnet for the test) and see if that fixes the alarm prob? Do a neat and tidy job after that if its the answer.

If I get the chance tomorrow I'll whip the dash off to see where on earth the cable join was - too long ago to remember.... A

lol found your post on that other forum by googling for the resistor! ;)

m8 thats a good idea, fingers crossed eh!
-really dont wanna strip my dash looking for earth points:doh:

will report back tomorrow...... ;)

at least now theres a consolidated resource in this entire thread for anyone else with the same problem (and from what iv seen on google there are many!)

Thanks for all the help guys!
 
all day spent pulling loom appart with little to show for it :frusty:

i ran that wire from the switch to the dim/dip resistor and this lets me turn the lights on without the alarm sounding (well, i get a blip as the voltage drops)

but the lights are nowhere near as bright as they should be and the fog light doesnt work.

that is, until i disconnect the headlights! then all is well!!??

so i ripped my dash out looking for a bad earth /chaffed wire;

deaftonewonder-albums-random-picture9918-p5190156.jpg
[/IMG]

deaftonewonder-albums-random-picture9919-p5190157.jpg


not a sausage.

the only thing i can see that i can see that doesnt look good is the dim/dip resistor; :confused:

deaftonewonder-albums-random-picture9917-p5190155.jpg


deaftonewonder-albums-random-picture9920-p5190154.jpg
 
If they are cheap enough to replace then it has to be worth a shot. If they are stoopid money I would see if someone has one that you can test.

that's just a very bog standard metal clad resistor, if you can find out what value it should be the likes of Farnell, or RS will have them, no doubt at a fraction of the dealers price
 
thanks sean, anyone know what value the LR one should be?

i just been reading that the dim/dip circuit isnt needed but im not temptng fate by fekin about removing wiring............

I assume you don't have a multimeter ?

can you zoom in enough to read what it says on that resistor ? - is there any text on your existing one ?

summat like R20 - 20 ohms etc
 
I assume you don't have a multimeter ?

can you zoom in enough to read what it says on that resistor ? - is there any text on your existing one ?

summat like R20 - 20 ohms etc
Aren't resitors colour coded?

Sorry pished
 

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