Took off the corner triangle peice of ducting and there's blue stains dried on it and a wet bit on the joint with the peice that remains fixed to car so fink I've finely found one leak can anyone tell me I've I need to completely drain the rad to do the o rings cheers
 
pete12345 said:
Took off the corner triangle peice of ducting and there's blue stains dried on it and a wet bit on the joint with the peice that remains fixed to car so fink I've finely found one leak can anyone tell me I've I need to completely drain the rad to do the o rings cheers
Click to expand...
Take the rubber pipes off under the bonnet having first clamped them, then you can blow the water out of the heater matrix so you don't get wet when you undo the O ring coupling and you will only need a small top up of antifreeze.
 
Took of the 2 pipes through the bulk head now got more water in footwell and haven't undone the o ring joint yet there seems to be a bit of play on the pipes do they join to the heater core and I've so could they be cracked at the join which was the original leak and not the o rings because the plastic joint still seems dry cheers again
 
Got the o rings out but got bigger problems now new ones are the green one
 

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Where do these little green one fit then may aswell c I've can replace old one now I got them
 
Cheers martinuk just ordered the right ones and put the old ones back in but it's leaking to much now to use it so will be away all wk with work so do it next wkend glad u replied that pm u sent with the nissens part number is for a core without aircon it says mines got aircon
 
The pipes through the bulkhead are free to move so do move around. A lot of issues seem to be connected to having LPG tied in the other side. Maybe the fitting disturbs the o rings?
 
I am without aircon at the moment and yesterday the passenger window wouldn’t go down but on the upside I am doing a great trade in baked potatoes :)
 
The Nissens heater core part number I sent is for the Audi version that I use if I'm swapping the whole thing. It has no relation to the P38 at all other than the fact that it happens to fit in the heater box with a slight adjustment (trimming the center rib in the heater box - which takes a couple of minutes at max). You then do away with the metal pipes/O-rings and then run some new heater hose into the engine bay, directly to the hoses in there.
 
Yer cheers Martinuk got that bit now I've ordered one so I've the new o rings don't solve the leak then I replace the whole unit thanks for all the advice greatly appreciated
 
If you decide to do away with the o-rings setup it can be a tight fit getting the new pipes through the bulkhead, depending how thick your new pipes are. Lubricating with washing up liquid and one person feeding while the other pulls from the engine bay makes it a lot easier. The washing up liquid just washes off.
 
Yer do the pipes need to be solid or can I use rubber ones once I find the correct diameter for the replacement matrix cheers
 
I would use rubber. Solid pipes and vibration are not good bedfellows.
 
Datatek said:
Just take care the rubber ones do not chafe if they are to pass through the bulkhead.
Click to expand...

There's a rubber grommet where it goes through. Good point though. Took us a few goes because the grommet kept pushing out. I had forgotten about that.
 
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