Willy, Let me share my story regarding a Head Gasket Replacement and perhaps you my find some comfort if not a solution. Last April, 2012, I purchased for $1200 US a 1999 Range Rover SE (4.0 Bosch) as a project vehicle. My intention was to repair it and sell it for a profit. The previous owner had owned it only 3 months and parted with her mechanic boyfriend before he repaired it.. It had everything wrong with it, but after eliminating all other possibilities, I decided to tackle the Head Gasket rather than have a Salvage Yard come and get it and claim it as a charitable donation.

I took my time and after weeks completed the job. I used Paul’s (the Australian) photo guide as well as the Discovery II guide written by Land Rover. After I thought I was complete, I had to adjust the throttle/cruise control cables, I exchanged incorrectly the IACV and the coil connectors that gave erroneous codes, just to name a couple. The car started and when I took it for a test drive, it was ok at first, but soon overheated. I recalled all of the horror stories that you read on these forums—slipped sleeves, cracked heads, loose bolts, etc. I checked, rechecked, read forums, and just walked away for a couple of days. Then I read about filling the coolant. One writer talked about jacking up the car and the side that has the overflow tank. I did it, why not? I removed the bleed hose from the nipple on the radiator. With the car running while jacked up, I filled the overflow with coolant until the there was a steady flow of coolant from the bleed nipple. I then reattached the hose to the nipple, topped off the overflow tank. My temperature gauge has been at 12:00 since.

My heads were skimmed. Rave says that they can be skimmed .5 mm. Mine were skimmed 12 thousandths of an inch which is about .3mm. My cost was only $82 for this. I have been driving this car since. I have towed a vehicle on a car carrier with it. I decided to keep it as a 4 wheel through the winter. Having fallen in love with my Rover, I may never sell it. I hope this helps
That's a V8, the OP has a diesel.
 
stupid range rover design
for the coolant system
any tips for bleeding
think ive done most ov them
have used the search button
I've lost the count of hours
studying on the forum
and rave
 
stupid range rover design
for the coolant system
any tips for bleeding
think ive done most ov them
have used the search button
I've lost the count of hours
studying on the forum
and rave
it's easier to bleed if the front of the car is raised a little IMO also rapidly squeeze and release the hoses. I've not had a problem bleeding mine when I did the antifreeze.
 
What you are trying to accomplish is to raise the overflow tank and the radiator nipple above the engine. You do not want to simply raise the engine, but rather cant the front of the vehicle so that it is at a diagonal to the ground.
 
right all
looks promising
drove 10 mile after warming up
12 o'clock on gauge
mint
bled and bled
also drill a bigger hole in bleed
hole
water flowed wicked ImageUploadedByTapatalk1366046538.386923.jpg
sort ov like this
 
looking good folks 20mile
trip
time for oil change and antifreeze
to be done
and bonnet pull is snaped
probebly how man times I've
had it open lol
 
bloody suspension fault now
made diagnostic lead cleared faults
eas suite wicked
got to figure if drivers bag is fuked
or split
 
Hi,all going to replace head on my 2.5DT looking in rave it says use STC 3373 sealant around timing chain housing,having trouble getting it anyone used a similar sealant.
 
hi all after fitting remanufactured head engine is lacking power on hills and overtaking,double checked timing seems ok.only problem in changing head was number 4 injector wire may have been nipped could this be the cause.engine sounds good otherwise and revs ok in neutral.
 
In one simple word, YES. You did of course reconnect MAP sensor and your in tank pump is definitely working?
 
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