remedave

New Member
Hi guys long time no issues

I have a pair of p38 4.6 both on LPG not sure if I have issues but here goes

One has should we call it a stiff top hose not solid but hard when hot and soft when cool the system hold pressure over night ie if I take the cap off is hisses a little every time this has been like this for months however I have recently just took the oil cap off to top up the oil for a 400 mile round trip and discovered some light cream and a few drops of condensation I cleaned this off and done a 10 mile trip and its creamed up slightly again with droplets of water not loads of cream but a thin covering covered 2000 miles like this

The other p3.8 has soft hoses all of the time but seams to use a pint of water a month it also has a small amount of cream on the cap but it does a daily 30 mile round trip again this motor has been like this for months covered 4000 miles like this

The question is which one is going to blow up lol there is clearly a fault with one of them

Many thanks for any further points
 
Do you mainly do short journeys? 4.6 is a big engine making a lot of water. If you don't get it hot for a decent amount of time then I would have thought moisture is bound to build up and the water vapour will turn into an emulsion with the oil. You can get a testing kit if you're worried about gasket failure.

Losing water is more serious. If you're lucky it might be as simple as tightening all hoses and making sure the cap is fully tightened. Any wet in the cabin?
 
Cheers I have used nano com on a run on the over preasuring one and its sitting high with the water temp it sits around 96 and rises to 100 when ticking over say pulling up at the lights but drops back down within seconds to 96 when going down hill it drops right off to 88 the cooling fan seams to be working fine

I wonder if it's a stat or a water pump it's fine at 90 on the motorway it won't over heat and when I lift the bonet when it sitting high it hardly feels read hot well I am off to Pitlochry today 250 miles if it going to let go it will be on the way there or back wish me luck
 
Cheers I have used nano com on a run on the over preasuring one and its sitting high with the water temp it sits around 96 and rises to 100 when ticking over say pulling up at the lights but drops back down within seconds to 96 when going down hill it drops right off to 88 the cooling fan seams to be working fine

I wonder if it's a stat or a water pump it's fine at 90 on the motorway it won't over heat and when I lift the bonet when it sitting high it hardly feels read hot well I am off to Pitlochry today 250 miles if it going to let go it will be on the way there or back wish me luck
How did you check the viscous fan?
 
Hi all we made it whoop

The viscous fan I can hear kicking in

If am am going through a thirty zone the engine is hotter that sitting under load on a motorway

However it gets hot just cruising it seams as long as the rpm is over 2000 it's cool regardless of the road speed

I am thinking water pump
 
Hi all we made it whoop

The viscous fan I can hear kicking in

If am am going through a thirty zone the engine is hotter that sitting under load on a motorway

However it gets hot just cruising it seams as long as the rpm is over 2000 it's cool regardless of the road speed

I am thinking water pump
You sure it's the viscous fan you can hear, because it doesn't "kick in" as you put it, it just picks up speed as the coupling locks. Could well be that what you can hear is the aircon condensor fans kicking in, you really can hear those.
I still want to know how you checked the viscous fan is working as the symptoms you have are typical of a failing viscous fan.
 
Hi mate no it's the main fan I can hear it with the rpm ie if I Rev it it roars

I am going to change it as a due course as I go through my methodical change it has just covered 6 miles heavy of road climbing up a mountain off road in the Cairngorms at a speed of 10mph max in low box with out cooking temp still sitting at that worrying 95 to 98

With in about a minute of switching of the top hose goes soft and no it's not using a drop of water

I am going to check the rad packs for blocks and flush it all through but I don't think its that

On first start up within a few miles it heats up to the 96-98 range

I am thinking maybe thermostat ? Is their one in ?
 
Hi mate no it's the main fan I can hear it with the rpm ie if I Rev it it roars

I am going to change it as a due course as I go through my methodical change it has just covered 6 miles heavy of road climbing up a mountain off road in the Cairngorms at a speed of 10mph max in low box with out cooking temp still sitting at that worrying 95 to 98

With in about a minute of switching of the top hose goes soft and no it's not using a drop of water

I am going to check the rad packs for blocks and flush it all through but I don't think its that

On first start up within a few miles it heats up to the 96-98 range

I am thinking maybe thermostat ? Is their one in ?
95C sounds fairly normal to me when it's working fairly hard.
 
Well it made it back, it would be normal but what I am tryin explain it the harder the engine is worked the cooler it is I pulled up at a junction after s short drive in a 30 zone and the nanocom I had monitoring at the time sounded an alarm within a split second of me pulling up to say over temp 99degrees I reved the engine slightly i could here the viscous fan going and it cooled back down to 97 within seconds
 
Well it made it back, it would be normal but what I am tryin explain it the harder the engine is worked the cooler it is I pulled up at a junction after s short drive in a 30 zone and the nanocom I had monitoring at the time sounded an alarm within a split second of me pulling up to say over temp 99degrees I reved the engine slightly i could here the viscous fan going and it cooled back down to 97 within seconds
Could be the water pump impeller is slipping on the drive shaft, could also be the viscous not locking up fully.
 
Yes could be could be that the engine is just running hit on lpg and I am constantly getting codes for both lambda sensors saying signal too high or signal too low , I took em out swapped them over but no difference the actual sensors were white ??? Sure that's wrong if I remember white means burning coolant but that could be right as the last engine that was in the motor did burn coolant hence why it's not in anymore

The wiring on the checks good sometimes you can here the cats ticking when you pull up (over fueling) and I had it on the immission meter and it's all over the place one minute high next nothing

Might start here as its just a few degrees in temp and this would cause that need cheap sensors now uggghhhhh
 

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