Yes.Ah so that is why you never use one word when ten will do
I couldn’t get in earlier.
But some of those responses are very similar to what we have seen here.
A guy who has done it to 3 different vehicles with 3 posts
.Gear ratio charts (posted here) got a different response.
Fuel consumption questions, no aggressive response.
So we say the same but get called ****s
.J
Thing is I did research it and have given you info as to this may be an issue, I have the part numbers and sizes for both diffs and the 2010 onwards are different.
So you are just thinking I don’t know and am guessing, when actually you are just winging it.
So you go off to your other forum and ask if the bolts are the same.
J
I already did before I commented to you about your mistake!Edited & sorted. Now fix your post !!
Oh no another gotcha failed.
How many is it now?
Can you see how pathetic your life is that everything revolves around me writing the word "not" versus "no" after maybe 200 comments without grammar errors?
Literally that is all you had, then you made a grammar error in your next comment!
You cannot make this sh!t up!!!
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And like I said, if the bolts are different I will see that immediately when removing the first one that is different and I will be able to order new bolts before I continue.
This is just childish stuff compared to an actual problem, like if the ECUs will not allow the change.
Let me see if I can remember all of the genius comments about what might go wrong with this idea:
It won't go into fifth gear (manually upshift), there will be more pressure in the cylinders while using less fuel (impossible physics), nobody changes cars anymore (a blatant lie), it might not fit (it probably will or I will sell the diffs and keep the original ones), the bolts might be different (I will see this immediately and rectify it immediately), the torque converter might not lock up (I will see this immediately on my OBD reader and change back to the older diffs), I will have less acceleration when towing (I don't care about acceleration and I am not towing).
Did I miss anything?
I kind of stopped focusing on the hysterical stuff that people wrote here after a while.
Oh I forgot the best one, no one has already done it before and commented on this forum about doing it so it is a crazy idea.
But somebody with the same underlying BMW engine did it and it worked, and with a V8 SUV with a five speed gearbox did it and it worked, and someone else did it on a car that they didn't describe but it worked.
And I am the crazy one?
This is just childish stuff compared to an actual problem, like if the ECUs will not allow the change.
Let me see if I can remember all of the genius comments about what might go wrong with this idea:
It won't go into fifth gear (manually upshift), there will be more pressure in the cylinders while using less fuel (impossible physics), nobody changes cars anymore (a blatant lie), it might not fit (it probably will or I will sell the diffs and keep the original ones), the bolts might be different (I will see this immediately and rectify it immediately), the torque converter might not lock up (I will see this immediately on my OBD reader and change back to the older diffs), I will have less acceleration when towing (I don't care about acceleration and I am not towing).
Did I miss anything?
I kind of stopped focusing on the hysterical stuff that people wrote here after a while.
Oh I forgot the best one, no one has already done it before and commented on this forum about doing it so it is a crazy idea.
But somebody with the same underlying BMW engine did it and it worked, and with a V8 SUV with a five speed gearbox did it and it worked, and someone else did it on a car that they didn't describe but it worked.
And I am the crazy one?
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And still not one single gotcha comment has got me, but you losers cannot stop trying.
Given that I have mostly been responding to insults and gotcha comments and we are over 400 comments it must be at least fifty gotcha comments that have failed.
When do you have a win / lose ratio of 0/50 and still think that you are a winner?
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I have asked for details of where this ratio came from, you gave me garbage from a google search.
I have said that it seems they could possibly be interchangeable, with risk of some minor changes, drive shafts.
I have given you my thoughts on tc lock up as regards where the ecu may take its readings from, so don’t think an issue.
I have questioned the fitment and provided you info that bolts are different (likely a problem) but that the actual fitment should be ok.
I have given examples of I agree pushing it into top gear is not the problem, it’s maybe holding it there.
You have done nothing but treat me as a twat? Did I miss anything?
J
Yes, I gave you a valid Google search response that answered your question and you decided to attack it and attack me.
But the Google search was correct, it is correct, and it will remain correct into the future, answering your question.
I sent you a photograph of the differential for sale telling you which vehicle it came from and you still attacked me saying that I hadn't answered your question.
Now you say that the bolts are different, but you have not posted any technical information to prove this point.
But you have accused me of not providing information and just making statements.
Now you are doing the exact same thing.
I don't care for the technical information because I'm willing to believe you, just like I believed Blob, but you made a point of this, so you have to live by your rules.
Right, the bolts will be different but there will be no way to know that the bolts are different until I am halfway to Portugal.
And you say that I have no mechanical understanding, OMG you are hilarious.
Let me guess, the bolts are of an identical size but hardened to deal with the extra horsepower of the engine in the 8 speed diesel, which will not affect my car because I don't have an engine with that horsepower?
And given that I am a very gentle driver on the right foot not using my maximum horsepower it will not affect me.
I'm just guessing because you won't tell me, despite constantly repeating this point.
So please just stop, it is embarrassing.
No I pointed out you wouldn’t get the old 1s in.
You failed to read and acknowledge somebody was trying to help, then treated me as you have always.
I am pretty glad now I forgot to include the part numbers and sizes to my post after your response.
I questioned your google with a JLR document? You pooh poohed me.
Embarrassing for who? I certainly don’t feel embarrassed about spending time to do research to try and help a member.
Maybe you should for the way you are accepting the help.
J
I don't actually remember saying you were self employed because you are a horrible person.
If I will not be able to get the old bolts in, then I will know immediately that there is a problem, and there is no way I will discover this problem while driving in Portugal.
But you repeatedly have said that I will not discover this problem until I am on the road.
So which one is it, they won't fit and I will find out immediately or they will fit and I will only find out in Portugal?
You said "Divorced did you say? Work for yourself because no one would employ/work with you did you say?"
I just paraphrased what you said because I could not be bothered looking it up because this whole thing is just a massive gotcha joke.
I don't know how many times you guys have failed with your gotcha comments but you have never succeeded even once and yet you keep coming back here, so I guess you guys are just addicted to losing?
P38Seb
Well-Known Member
It’s taken 436 posts and 22 pages but I think we’ve successfully proven that no one on this forum is helpful and that OP is by far and away a high value individual and we’re all betas.
Now to match his post length with some AI drivel:
Ah, changing the differentials on a Range Rover L322—now there’s a job that can lead you down a rabbit hole of mechanical pondering, tea-drinking procrastination, and more than a few “while I’m in there” moments. It’s one of those tasks that sounds straightforward when you first say it out loud, but once you’re under the vehicle staring at bolts encrusted with the finest blend of British mud and corrosion, you realise it’s anything but simple. The L322, after all, is a heavy old beast with its fair share of quirks, and the diffs play no small role in keeping the whole thing moving gracefully over tarmac, gravel, or a muddy field somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
Let’s start with the why. Why would anyone want to change the differentials on an L322 in the first place? Well, over time, the factory-fitted diffs—whether open, electronic, or limited-slip—can wear out. Bearings start to grumble, pinions develop a bit of lash, and before you know it, you’ve got an ominous whining noise on overrun that makes you start budgeting for a rebuild. Some owners go a step further and swap diffs preemptively, especially if they’re upgrading tyre sizes or moving towards a more off-road-focused setup. Others just want the peace of mind of knowing the thing won’t leave them stranded halfway up a green lane in the pouring rain with a diff that’s decided to let go in spectacular fashion.
Of course, getting the old diff out isn’t as easy as just undoing a few bolts and dropping it onto the floor with a satisfying clang. No, the L322 likes to complicate things a bit. You’ll need to factor in driveshaft removal, potentially dealing with seized bolts, and often a fair amount of careful persuasion to get the diff clear of the subframe and other assorted obstacles. The front and rear diffs are slightly different animals too—the front tends to be a bit fiddlier due to less room to manoeuvre, especially if you’re not inclined to drop the entire front subframe, though some brave souls will tackle it in-situ with enough patience (and perhaps a bit of swearing).
When it comes to replacement options, you’re faced with a whole menu of possibilities. Stick with OEM? Go for a remanufactured unit? Or perhaps upgrade to something beefier like an Ashcroft ATB if you’re planning on tackling more serious terrain? Each option has its pros and cons. Some folks will argue there’s nothing quite like an OEM diff to keep the L322’s driving manners civilised on the road, while others swear by aftermarket upgrades for the extra traction and durability. It really depends on what you use the vehicle for. Daily commuter? Probably stick with stock. Off-road toy or overland rig? Might be worth spending a bit more for an upgrade.
Then there’s the all-important matter of fluids. The L322 isn’t one of those vehicles where you can get away with pouring in any old gear oil and hoping for the best. Land Rover was very particular about diff oils, especially for the electronically controlled locking rear diff if you’ve got one of those fitted. Using the wrong fluid can lead to premature wear or outright failure, which is exactly what you’re trying to avoid in the first place. So it’s worth sourcing the correct specification fluid, even if it means paying a bit extra or ordering from a specialist.
All in all, changing diffs on an L322 is one of those jobs that can be as rewarding as it is time-consuming. It’s not something you’ll want to rush, nor is it the sort of job you’d tackle casually on a Sunday afternoon unless you’ve got plenty of time and a backup vehicle just in case. But for those willing to dive into the job properly, armed with a decent socket set, some mechanical sympathy, and perhaps a workshop manual that’s seen better days, it’s a chance to keep one of Britain’s finest 4x4s running as it should—silently, smoothly, and ready for whatever the road (or lack of it) throws its way.
Now to match his post length with some AI drivel:
Ah, changing the differentials on a Range Rover L322—now there’s a job that can lead you down a rabbit hole of mechanical pondering, tea-drinking procrastination, and more than a few “while I’m in there” moments. It’s one of those tasks that sounds straightforward when you first say it out loud, but once you’re under the vehicle staring at bolts encrusted with the finest blend of British mud and corrosion, you realise it’s anything but simple. The L322, after all, is a heavy old beast with its fair share of quirks, and the diffs play no small role in keeping the whole thing moving gracefully over tarmac, gravel, or a muddy field somewhere in the middle of nowhere.
Let’s start with the why. Why would anyone want to change the differentials on an L322 in the first place? Well, over time, the factory-fitted diffs—whether open, electronic, or limited-slip—can wear out. Bearings start to grumble, pinions develop a bit of lash, and before you know it, you’ve got an ominous whining noise on overrun that makes you start budgeting for a rebuild. Some owners go a step further and swap diffs preemptively, especially if they’re upgrading tyre sizes or moving towards a more off-road-focused setup. Others just want the peace of mind of knowing the thing won’t leave them stranded halfway up a green lane in the pouring rain with a diff that’s decided to let go in spectacular fashion.
Of course, getting the old diff out isn’t as easy as just undoing a few bolts and dropping it onto the floor with a satisfying clang. No, the L322 likes to complicate things a bit. You’ll need to factor in driveshaft removal, potentially dealing with seized bolts, and often a fair amount of careful persuasion to get the diff clear of the subframe and other assorted obstacles. The front and rear diffs are slightly different animals too—the front tends to be a bit fiddlier due to less room to manoeuvre, especially if you’re not inclined to drop the entire front subframe, though some brave souls will tackle it in-situ with enough patience (and perhaps a bit of swearing).
When it comes to replacement options, you’re faced with a whole menu of possibilities. Stick with OEM? Go for a remanufactured unit? Or perhaps upgrade to something beefier like an Ashcroft ATB if you’re planning on tackling more serious terrain? Each option has its pros and cons. Some folks will argue there’s nothing quite like an OEM diff to keep the L322’s driving manners civilised on the road, while others swear by aftermarket upgrades for the extra traction and durability. It really depends on what you use the vehicle for. Daily commuter? Probably stick with stock. Off-road toy or overland rig? Might be worth spending a bit more for an upgrade.
Then there’s the all-important matter of fluids. The L322 isn’t one of those vehicles where you can get away with pouring in any old gear oil and hoping for the best. Land Rover was very particular about diff oils, especially for the electronically controlled locking rear diff if you’ve got one of those fitted. Using the wrong fluid can lead to premature wear or outright failure, which is exactly what you’re trying to avoid in the first place. So it’s worth sourcing the correct specification fluid, even if it means paying a bit extra or ordering from a specialist.
All in all, changing diffs on an L322 is one of those jobs that can be as rewarding as it is time-consuming. It’s not something you’ll want to rush, nor is it the sort of job you’d tackle casually on a Sunday afternoon unless you’ve got plenty of time and a backup vehicle just in case. But for those willing to dive into the job properly, armed with a decent socket set, some mechanical sympathy, and perhaps a workshop manual that’s seen better days, it’s a chance to keep one of Britain’s finest 4x4s running as it should—silently, smoothly, and ready for whatever the road (or lack of it) throws its way.
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
This is amazing
kernowsvenski
Well-Known Member
If there is one positive to be had from this thread, It's got me proper interested in the L322. I like all LRs but never really paid much attention to the RRs.
