Maplins

theres no maplins in germany :-(

try Conrad. right between Wittenbergplatz and Nollendorfplatz or SEGOR-electronics at Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee 94, 10589 Berlin - www.segor.de

thanks ive never heard of this conrad,but theres one 20 min drive from me ,thanks mate

Yer betterer oft with a meter with a probe, than an infer red thermometer. Infra red type measure radiation of heat. Hence you can't be sure yer measuring the inside of the auto. The red dot is an indicator. Running the auto for 10 mins is no good. It's too long and not following the rules.

To be frank... you need to follow what we did in the big fred about level checking and changing the auto oil. If you go outside of this procedure, then we can't say for sure it will be ok. Some say it's only an auto box but when it's broke it's broke'd. We believe the temp is precise for a reason (safe working temp and the auto will have purged all the air out of everywhere) so follow it as a rule.

You would be surprised just how many peeps fek up their auto by not following the instructions.

It always worries me when putting info on how to do something on ere. If it's wrong then I may damage someone or their Freelander. In the case of auto's I send them to the fred below as it takes them through our thinking, and what we did. My auto is still going and happy.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-automatic-gearbox-69336-5.html


PB231883 Q4ro73Z

This was my leak. At the bottom where it's dripping oft. Main dealer tried to reseal it by taking the side pan oft, then resealing. It didn't work. Then the rest of the seals went due to low oil and it whacking into gear when the torque convertor was low on oil.


PA141169 vAWQCII

The side plate can leak sometimes, repeatedly so if the wrong sealant is used. This joint should be sealed with an anaerobic sealant like Loctite 574. Silicone won't work and silicone "worms" can block the oil ways in the box often given secondary faults.
I use an IR thermometer and have no issues. The box fluid quantity doesn't have to be millilitre perfect, reasonably accurate will be fine.

cool i still have loads of loctite 574 left from when i did my sump

got one

right im thick!!!!!!!

please help which setting on this multimeter do i need to set it to please

Ohms are lower left in green.

yes i realize that but which setting?200,2k,200k,2m?

What are you trying to test?
If it's a switch of some sort then it hardly matters. Switch open - meter shows infinity in some form, switch closed - meter shows zero or b****y close to it.

That depends on the expected resistance of what you're measuring.

I'd start at 200k and see if that gives you the range you need. Those values are the max it will display on those settings

Hope that helps

trying to get the ohms for the auto box as below (hope hippo ok with me posting this)



Published on 4 Nov 2013
Freelander 1 v6. Measuring the solenoid and sensor resistances in my 2001 Freelander 1 v6 Jatco auto gearbox. Suggested resistance below taken from the internet:

Method 1: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 1 - 2 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 3 - 4 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 5 - 6 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 7 - 8 = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below

Method 1: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0243)
Pin 18 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 9 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 11 - 18 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 12 - 18 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 13 - 18 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 18 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 16 - 18 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)

Method 2: Sensor resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 5 - 20 = Vehicle speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 21 - 20 = Intermediate speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 24 - 20 = Turbine speed sensor (513 to 627 ohms)
Pin 39 - 20 = Fluid temperature sensor See Table Below

Method 2: Solenoid resistance limits (connector C0932)
Pin 17 is the common for all solenoid measurements.
Pin 3 - 17 = 2-4 brake duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 4 - 17 = 2-4 brake timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 10 - 17 = Reduction timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 14 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve B (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 15 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve A (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 16 - 17 = Lock-up solenoid valve (12 to 13.2 ohms)
Pin 17 - 18 = Line pressure duty solenoid valve (2.6 to 3.2 ohms)
Pin 52 - 17 = Shift solenoid valve C (14 to 18 ohms)
Pin 53 - 17 = Low clutch timing solenoid valve (14 to 18 ohms)

Fluid temperature sensor resistance values: (connector C0243 and C0932)
-40 degrees C = 54900 ohms
-20 degrees C = 16700 ohms
00 degrees C = 6020 ohms
20 degrees C = 2500 ohms
40 degrees C = 1160 ohms
60 degrees C = 590 ohms
80 degrees C = 330 ohms
100 degrees C = 190 ohms
140 degrees C = 80 ohms
Category
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no problem

Yer meter has ranges of

200 ohms = measures up to 200 ohms
2k = 2000 ohms = measures between 200 and 2000 ohms
20k = 20,000 ohms = measures between 2000 and 20,000 ohms
20M = 2,000,000 ohms = measure between 20,000 and 20,000,000 ohms

If you want to measure 500 ohms then use the option next above this value = 2000 = 2k.

Values of less than 200ohms, use the 200 ohm range.
Values around 600 ohms will be the 2k range
The temp sensor will need the 20k range. That's if it's at ambient temp.

well i took this pic before i got confused about the ohms scale lol


not sure what should be connected to these wires????
but all pins look good
anyway never got to check ohms today in the end thats tomorrows job now

any way next to check gear box level
got it up to temp

####ing engine light just came on ahhhhh this car is a night mare it was 50/50 on keep or strip it its now 60/40 on stripping it lol
next the bolt i checked double checked then checked again lol
as you see mines the allen key type
and with engine RUNNING this is what came out
think thats just what was behind the bolt lol and i think i may need to add oil !!!!!!!!

but was also thinking if vcu is stiff would that also cause a jolt when gears change ? never checked that yet

anyway tomorrow is hopefully MOT and ohms day

if does not fail to bad it may goto 60/40 to keep the car lol depending on gearbox

this might help??

thanks mate

i no the settings lol it was just which range i needed

Regarding the leak on the side... has the solenoid front cover plate got any dents/imperfections in it?