not to sure but im going to refill the gear box today and see if it does leak from there ,if it is where its leaking i will just have to drop it again and refit a new seal ,sounds daft but i need to get her running asap as if not will be out of time on her mot retest ,which will mean another full mot doing ,so i will try get her fit for that first ,get moted etc sorted then revist if needed the seal
Hippo
Lord Hippo
It's a shame the leak can cause the slamming into gear as if a car has driven into you
at 3mph. You need to feel it to appreciate it. It's the torque convertor cavitating due
to getting air in it. They do that when the auto oil is low. Mine did it and it destroyed
the torque convertor when the auto oil level dropped and I didn't know.
at 3mph. You need to feel it to appreciate it. It's the torque convertor cavitating due
to getting air in it. They do that when the auto oil is low. Mine did it and it destroyed
the torque convertor when the auto oil level dropped and I didn't know.
Hippo
Lord Hippo
To change it you need to remove the auto as it sits between the auto and engine. Some on ere have changed their auto.
Loss of oil and slamming into gear as if hit by another car at say 3mph sounds eggsactly what I had. If the oil level drops too low you get air in the torque convertor. This damaged it - I assume wear. It would only sla into gear to mine when warned up, but became worse so gear change was pronounced all the time regardless of temp. Hence the importance of correct oil temp when doing the level check. The slamming of gear is a massive shock to the auto so it may distort the metal case. We think this is what happened to mine slightly, as the 1x side leak became every case seal leaking in the end. From memory it was all 3 main seals. I could see it myself happening when watching it drop over time when stationary. I had a recon fitted. I could be wrong but it sounds just like what mine did. The problem is the oil drops onto the engine guard and jumps oft at speed. Hence you don't see oil on the floor. So you don't know it leaking auto oil.
Auto fluid change can work wonders in the Jatco, solving all sorts of strange problems. It could be a solenoid. I would like to be wrong on this as I'm no eggspert but joining the recon auto gang is an eggpensive club to join. We have the issue of cracked piston and solenoids. Also clutch/bands wear. Resistance alone won't tell you if they're ok, but it's a first step to check. The coil inside may measure correctly but that doesn't mean it moves when it should. There's pressure tests listed in the rave but I've not tried any of these myself.
The wrong level auto oil is so much of a problem I go out of my way to warn peeps to do the level check correctly. I was warned when mine was playing up by the main dealer not to put the wrong oil in, and there's a special method. We know that method but I didn't at the time. They diagnose many but don't change all as most peeps take a cheaper route elsewhere due to price. Wrong oil was their top reason for failure. The level check is becoming more difficult these days. I know of countless stories of people doing it wrong and destroying a working Jatco due to crap posted online. It's a real shame. I talked to one recently that had the wrong oil in the auto. We think the garage put something like ird oil in. May have been manual gearbox oil. Whatever it was it caused problems... then beyond repair. Hence telling peeps to read up on and follow our instructions on ere, which take you through why/how and what we did. From cold, correct temp range, measured correctly with engine running as per instructions when it tells you to do so. We think we know why... but for me it's too much of a risk of someone's Jatco to tell them to do different. Those who dispute this need to offer to pay for those who fek up their auto's. It may be considered "...only a fekin auto..." by some, but imagine a routine oil service oil which ends with a £1500+ bill. It's a real shame. Rant over.
Auto weight is 84kg without oil and torque convertor. It can be done by tilting the engine/auto/ird but you need to support the weight. Main dealer changed mine as it was about the same price to get it lifted to Ashcroft transmissions when adding it all up. Would have needed a day oft work too for that. Ashcroft would have been me number one choice if it were not for the ease of the main dealer option. I think you need to remove the ird first, then the auto. That's a lot of messing about. Main dealers take the engine out as it's easier but they have a full workshop and lifting gear.
hippo
can I pick ur brains plse
been reading and have u seen where u can put a pressure gauge on different pressure testing points on the jatco gearbox
it says if u put a gauge onto the reverse pressure point and whilst in any forward gear it should read zero
don't know if that's to test the clutch plates etc or for seals leaking ???
can I pick ur brains plse
been reading and have u seen where u can put a pressure gauge on different pressure testing points on the jatco gearbox
it says if u put a gauge onto the reverse pressure point and whilst in any forward gear it should read zero
don't know if that's to test the clutch plates etc or for seals leaking ???
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jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
on the end cover lhs side , it cant test clutch plates oil colour does that but shows condition of pistons and valves etc
Hippo
Lord Hippo
Yep there's what I think are pressure monitoring connections on the side below, marked with blue chalk it looks like, on mine. Don't know why - assume it's a test marker. If you look at the video below shows the inside of the side pan. I think the pressure checks tell you if the pump is pumping and if there's correct hydraulic pressure being pumped. Also if solenoids have switched correctly. If not then something it wrong like a leak internal etc. Similar to cracked piston giving loss of pressure. Never tried measuring from these connections.
edit: jm's quicker typing.
Freelander 1 v6 Jatco Auto Gearbox - Measuring the Solenoid and Sensor Resistances
P9171139 HuQYElR
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Yay at last got home today and the parts have arrived
but wife wanted a BBQ so will have to fit tomorrow now
You will need some silicone plumber's grease for the O rings anyway. This makes them slip into the block without causing damage to the O ring. It also prevents coolant creep over time and it's also easier to remove the elbow or thermostat at a later date.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
tried to get some of this plumbers grease stuff you mentioned ,this is all i could get ,after a bit of translation to the guy in the shop in holland he said this is what i needed
says it is for taps
That's the stuff you want
When you put the stat, elbow and link pipes in, use the grease to lubricate the O rings and holes. It's by far the easiest way to get the assembly done without causing damage.
25-50% depending on conditions.
now im well ****ed off, went to fit the thermostat and
1. the new straight pipe is around 1,5 cm to ####ing long !!!
2. the rubber seal is to thick on the curved pipe ! after using plumbers grease and as much force as i dare still would not go in ,in the end the seal split ,i had another o ring same size to fit the pipe but not as thick with that on it fitted ,but not 100 percent sure that new seal will do the job as not as thick ,im well ****ed off
Also i bought the 2 clips for the straight pipe,what do they do ???? they seem not to do anything
1. the new straight pipe is around 1,5 cm to ####ing long !!!
2. the rubber seal is to thick on the curved pipe ! after using plumbers grease and as much force as i dare still would not go in ,in the end the seal split ,i had another o ring same size to fit the pipe but not as thick with that on it fitted ,but not 100 percent sure that new seal will do the job as not as thick ,im well ****ed off
Also i bought the 2 clips for the straight pipe,what do they do ???? they seem not to do anything
Do yu not think there comes a time when you think "it is trying to tell me something"?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The straight link pipe has to be longer than the gap between the water pump and thermostat for the seals to work. You slip the straight pipe into the pump inlet as far as it will go. Use lots of grease to allow the pipe to move smoothly. Then push the thermostat bottom lug into the block, again well lubed. Once fully home, slide the link pipe out of its fully inserted position to mate with the opposite lug in the thermostat. The link pipe will then join the stat bridging the gap. The 2 clips go round the narrow ends of the link pipe to stop it slipping in either direction.
The elbow pipe is often hard to fit. Make sure it's exactly parallel with the block. The block needs to be perfectly clear of crud and you need lots of lube. Sometimes the stat assembly is a pain until you have mastered it.
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yu dont want it water tight - yu want it oil tight
