Ok now worked it out and thought best to post pics just in case it helps anyone searching for same answer.
The ecu plug has two separate internal block connectors within it. You have to slide these out to remove wires. First you insert slim screwdriver from side and push each one out as in picture. Once they are out you can see the wires are able to be released by pressing the bottom silver part of each wire and pulling gently out. IMG_1542.JPG IMG_1545.JPG .
 
You need to push gently down on the part of the pin you can see , while doing this you will need to pull gently on the wire at the same time.
the pins profile is a bit like a barb on a fishing hook - it is this barb part you need to push down,

Good luck.
T
 
Gents: just wanted to say this thread was very helpful, cheers to all who contributed! Thread was started in 2011, and a few of you still tinkering into last month I saw, and now my FL symptoms started in Aug hence the search for a solution and the thread lives on. All FL1 owners should just do this mod from the beginning and be done with it. Ordered the wiring loom plus sensor from LR Trade Parts via eBay and what a major difference it has made! I've had many vehicles over the years and despite what seems like a negative perception of the FL1, I find it straightforward and simple to work on - we have enjoyed it very much for the last 80k miles. -Smash
 
Smash, I agree the hippo does have a negative reputation for reliability (but even the new LR and RRs still suffer from that image/fact). But like you, I like the fact that most things are doable, and something I'm able to have a crack at. I have to say though I would not have been able to, or had the confidence to tackle many of the jobs without the help of the excellent wealth of knowledge shared in this forum. There are some fantastically knowledgeable contributors!

Jim
 
Smash said:
Gents: just wanted to say this thread was very helpful, cheers to all who contributed! Thread was started in 2011, and a few of you still tinkering into last month I saw, and now my FL symptoms started in Aug hence the search for a solution and the thread lives on. All FL1 owners should just do this mod from the beginning and be done with it. Ordered the wiring loom plus sensor from LR Trade Parts via eBay and what a major difference it has made! I've had many vehicles over the years and despite what seems like a negative perception of the FL1, I find it straightforward and simple to work on - we have enjoyed it very much for the last 80k miles. -Smash
Click to expand...

I bought the loom ages ago ,keep thinking I must fit it , lol

as so many people have done this update , must get round to it

been really pleased with mine and don't know why they get such bad press , is a very capable vehicle , comfortable and a joy to drive
 
Grayo said:
I'm about to attempt changing the fuel rail sensor and wiring harness on my 2006 TD4. I'v read all through this post and find the information very helpful. I'v got the new sensor and harness but the only problem i'v got are with the sensor. There are two other bits that came with the sensor that I dont know what they are for so would be grateful if anybody can tel me what they are for. Picture below.

Click to expand...
IMG_2384.JPG
 
196BF538-8057-464E-8B9A-2CF4D7A7A353-2510-0000033F8A1616AE.jpeg

I received the bosch new part and will fit it tomorrow.
The Bosch new part Tutorial is mentioning to use silicon grease on the O ring , the sensor + intermediate part' threads.
Wrong O ring fitment can provoke fuel leakage. Silicon grease is used to lock the O ring in the right position.
 
Last edited:
... ok, the problem is still here.
Reading more carefully this thread, i will clean all connectors i find on the injectors circuit.
Finally Then i will change the harness wiring between ECU and the fuel rail pressure sensor.
Cheers
 
In the case of the Freelander TD4, Landrover released
technical bulletin LTB00052 in 2007
which describes water ingress into the wiring loom between ecu and fuel rail pressure sensor.
This damages the sensor and cause various performance and starting problems.
Maybe this also occurs on the ROVER 75/ZT.

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/attachments/td4-pressure-switch-instructions-pdf.110894/

e9f1005f-f10b-43bd-a9c1-522e83480ae5-262-000000f603b20afd-jpeg.126910
6a253567-25d6-44de-abc9-ce99c7668155-262-000000f6421e084c-jpeg.126911
img_1928-jpg.126909
e9f1005f-f10b-43bd-a9c1-522e83480ae5-262-000000f603b20afd-jpeg.126910


View attachment 126910 View attachment 126911 View attachment 126909 View attachment 126910 View attachment 126909

 
zoolander said:
Well Ive just changed the loom and all fixed - MIL off car running fine.
Got a good discount from a Land Rover dealer in Kent cost £32.34. The new loom is shorter than the original so has to go directly to the ECU box. Probably the proper way to install this would be to drill a hole in the side of ECU box and install thru there. I made a small cut in the top of one of the rubber shrouds carrying cables into the box and inserted the new cable there instead, wrapping the shroud in insulating tape.
The 3 new wires went into a plug at the front of the box. This is the third plug from the right - I removed the other two to enable access to the plug to be worked on.
The plug you need has one black block and one grey block. Each block is numbered with 4 rows of 13. The two blocks can be slid from the holder to enable fitting the new wires shich are a push fitting.
pin 20 is brown/green
pin 33 is blue/black
pin 35 is white/yellow

So the money Ive saved is going down the bookies for Man Utd to beat Barca 2 -1 :)
Click to expand...
HELP. My mate did the fuel pressure harness on my 2004 td4 and after he finished it wouldn't start
switching on ignition the temp gauge went high and stayed there and cooling fans running all the time.
he has now admitted to putting in wrong place in ecu multiplug, have changed and put in correct place but is still doing as above. would I be right in saying ecu is fried and a new one required any help appreciated
 
Skyblue35 said:
HELP. My mate did the fuel pressure harness on my 2004 td4 and after he finished it wouldn't start
switching on ignition the temp gauge went high and stayed there and cooling fans running all the time.
he has now admitted to putting in wrong place in ecu multiplug, have changed and put in correct place but is still doing as above. would I be right in saying ecu is fried and a new one required any help appreciated
Click to expand...
The EDC should be protected from sensors being wired up wrong. All outputs are current limited outputs or inputs are protected inputs. I'd be double and triple checking the connections at the EDC multi-plugs.
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
The EDC should be pro

The EDC should be protected from sensors being wired up wrong. All outputs are current limited outputs or inputs are protected inputs. I'd be double and triple checking the connections at the EDC multi-plugs.
Click to expand...
HE DIDNT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILST DOING THE WORK COULD THIS HAVE DAMAGED EVU
 
Skyblue35 said:
HE DIDNT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY WHILST DOING THE WORK COULD THIS HAVE DAMAGED EVU
Click to expand...

Possibly, but not necessarily, the EDC shuts down when the ignition is off.

Check all the connections again. The EDC is telling the fans to run and telling the Ipack (gauges) to go to hot, so it's still working. You need to sit down with the wiring diagram and connection pinouts making sure every wire is in the correct place.

It would be helpful to know which wires were connected to where, when it was done wrong. I can't personally see how it can go so wrong with just 3 wires to connect. :confused:
I'd not let this guy near the car again if I was you.;)


Oh and using capitals is shouting in forum speak.;)
 
Nodge68 said:
Possibly, but not necessarily, the EDC shuts down when the ignition is off.

Check all the connections again. The EDC is telling the fans to run and telling the Ipack (gauges) to go to hot, so it's still working. You need to sit down with the wiring diagram and connection pinouts making sure every wire is in the correct place.

It would be helpful to know which wires were connected to where, when it was done wrong. I can't personally see how it can go so wrong with just 3 wires to connect. :confused:
I'd not let this guy near the car again if I was you.;)


Oh and using capitals is shouting in forum speak.;)
Click to expand...
Sorry
He has told me when he first put new wires in he put them all in the black side of the two row 13 pin plug. One should have gone to pin 20 in grey side. I have since reconnected them where they should be. Just wondering could he have mixed up multiplug number 2 and 4 and put these multi plugs back in wrong order as he disconnected all the multiplugs
 
I don't believe the multi-plugs can be put in the wrong locations in the EDC. It's worth checking though, just in case. You're coolant sensor isn't giving a signal, which is why the fans are on and the gauge shows high.

Post some pictures of the EDC and where the wrong wires were put, if you can.
 
Wish i hadnt let him near it now. Said he knew what to do. Multiplug 4 a nd 2 are the same size looking at them. Will get pictures tomorrow. If i order an ecu of ebay with the key etc for that ecu is it just a plug and fit thanks
 
Nodge68 said:
I don't believe the multi-plugs can be put in the wrong locations in the EDC. It's worth checking though, just in case. You're coolant sensor isn't giving a signal, which is why the fans are on and the gauge shows high.

Post some pictures of the EDC and where the wrong wires were put, if you can.
Click to expand...
Will i require a new coolant sensor as well
 
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