Nodge68
Well-Known Member
If the Freelander's FBH works anything like that of my D3, then no, it can't switch the heater on via the power supply. The D3 FBH works in the CAN bus under BCU control. It also has what Webasto call the "W" bus input. This is an extra digital input to control the FBH under external control, like Webasto' s oval timer I have what is known as a "3rd button remote" for the FBH on my D3. This basically powers up the FBH using the 3rd button on the key fob. A special box of tricks activates the FBH via this W bus control line.
I suspect that the Freelander heater uses the K lune bus but also has an additional W bus control. This would be the only way to control the heater independently of the car.
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dave21478
Active Member
Its very easy. Details here, with fitting the remote kit on page 3....
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/how-i-repaired-modified-my-fbh-system-203702.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/how-i-repaired-modified-my-fbh-system-203702.html
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Ignore all that^^^^
The Freelander FBH uses a simple switch to control when it should run. The K line is for T4 diagnostics only. If only my D3 used the same principle. Oh well, that's progress for you.
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Very interesting topic.
1st question, why does it run on for so long after switching off engine?
2nd. Why do some people talk of clouds of smoke and when they say "exhaust", I assume they mean FBH pipe at front. If front FBH vent pipe would this not be a sign of a faulty FBH ?
3rd. Which takes priority, temp sensor on bumper or temp sensor for coolant.
As on a cold day the bumper sensor will always tell the FBH to be on.
An FBH on a HGV is an indepedent unit, not connected to coolant system
1st question, why does it run on for so long after switching off engine?
2nd. Why do some people talk of clouds of smoke and when they say "exhaust", I assume they mean FBH pipe at front. If front FBH vent pipe would this not be a sign of a faulty FBH ?
3rd. Which takes priority, temp sensor on bumper or temp sensor for coolant.
As on a cold day the bumper sensor will always tell the FBH to be on.
An FBH on a HGV is an indepedent unit, not connected to coolant system
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Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The FBH on my D3 works in the same way as the Freelander's system. The FBH is fitted too help warm the engine quickly from cold. This only happens when the air temperature is below 5°C.
If the engine temperature reaches 93°C iirc, the FBH starts it's shut down cycle.
If the coolant temperature drops below a set point, the FBH fires up again.
The FBH ECU will also vary the firing rate depending on coolant temperature, reducing heat output at higher coolant temps.
The FBH has a to run on after shut down to clear any build up of unburnt fuel.
The FBH is basically a tiny oil fired central heating boiler and so works on a similar principle. The exhaust is really a flue, same as it is in a boiler.
The D3 uses the BCU to control when the FBH fires. The Freelander's system uses an air temperature switch to fire the FBH. The FBH ECU then takes over control of the final coolant temperature and controls the firing rate.
Clouds of smoke are caused by incorrect combustion. It's a good indication that the heater needs cleaning internally, much like that of a central heating boiler.
A correctly burning heater is smoke free, once it's up to working temperature. Before working temperature is reached, small amounts of haze might be visible at the exhaust/ flue pipe.
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Larahausp1
Member
Notived mine hs started running when its about 12 degrees. This is the 1st winter with car is this normal. It stays on for about 2mins once engine is off
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Sounds like the FBH environmental sensor is failing. It's supposed to come on when the ambient air temperature at ~5°C. The FBH environmental sensor is behind the front bumper, RHS of the lower grille.
Larahausp1
Member
Is it difficult to change?
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Larahausp1
Member
So the part is easy but the bumper a pain in the arse lolNot once the bumper is removed.
Arctic2
Well-Known Member
Not difficult to change once you have got the front bumper off, that is where all the work is involved
allow your self at least 45 minutes to do the job, and purchase the sensor with the green connector.http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/sensorambient-jwl000020-p-22302.html
Larahausp1
Member
Is there no way to get to it without bumper removal?Not difficult to change once you have got the front bumper off, that is where all the work is involved
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/sensorambient-jwl000020-p-22302.html
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
You may be able to get to it by breaking the lower grille mesh out first. The mesh is clipped into the bumper shell with clips that break off when stressed. A sort of once only clip if you like.
So removing the bumper is the only real way to remove the sensor.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
If the bumper hasn't been off before (or for a long time), allow 45 minutes per each rusted little screw - there's only about 10 of them to try and drill outNot difficult to change once you have got the front bumper off, that is where all the work is involved
http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/sensorambient-jwl000020-p-22302.html
In all seriousness it is a job that can take 20 minutes or a weekend. It is a million times easier to do the 2nd time - but the first time you have to get those pesky rusted screws out around the edge, find the "well hidden" bolt up inside each top corner and work out HTF you're going to get it out (as well as the not so well hidden scrivets at the front) and work out how the bracketty things slots back it when putting it back on - I've done the job about 6 times and still haven't worked that one out!
For your sanity's sake, a crusher can be a viable alternative to removing and replacing the Freelander's front bumper the first time. Dunno if the facelift one is any easier.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
The facelift bumper is mounted in the same way as the pre-facelift. The only difference on the facelift is there are 4 bolts mounting it to the sump guard, instead of 2 self tappers on the pre-facelift.If the bumper hasn't been off before (or for a long time), allow 45 minutes per each rusted little screw - there's only about 10 of them to try and drill out
In all seriousness it is a job that can take 20 minutes or a weekend. It is a million times easier to do the 2nd time - but the first time you have to get those pesky rusted screws out around the edge, find the "well hidden" bolt up inside each top corner and work out HTF you're going to get it out (as well as the not so well hidden scrivets at the front) and work out how the bracketty things slots back it when putting it back on - I've done the job about 6 times and still haven't worked that one out!
For your sanity's sake, a crusher can be a viable alternative to removing and replacing the Freelander's front bumper the first time. Dunno if the facelift one is any easier.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Is the dosing pump at the back clicking?
