Sorry (still green) what is VVC and how do I identify the belt I need.
Do I
1. Take the belt of and count the teeth
2. Look for an identification code on the old belt
3. Some other magic trick


As long as you order the belt for an auto tensioner, then it'll be correct, although it's wise to double check yours is an auto tensioner, but with a 26mm wide belt, it should be.
 
Are you sure you've got an auto-tensioner? Your car has a distributer, which makes it an earlier (MEMS1.9) 16v MPi engine

I'm sure that a 26mm wide belt is the auto tensioner, when it's not a VVC. It would be prudent to check, before ordering the parts though.
 
I'm sure that a 26mm wide belt is the auto tensioner, when it's not a VVC. It would be prudent to check, before ordering the parts though.


Could you please tell me wht a VVC is ? I hate not knowing stuff as I go forward. Thanks
 
The VVC (Variable Valve Control) was the higher performance version of the 1.8 litre K-series engines - found on the MGF and MG TF, the Rover BRM, Rover 200GTi, Rover 25 GTi and MGZR 160. It was never fitted as standard to the Freelander.

The engine you have is a 1.8 MPi. :)

From the cam cover and the presence of a distributor, it is an earlier MPi engine which ought to have a manual tensioner. However, if it has an automatic tensioner, it probably means that someone has replaced the cylinder head in the past. If so, no big deal. Just order the belt for the automatic tensioner.

The VVC engine only ever used manual tensioners, so that shouldn't be a cause of confusion ;)

PS RLD should be called "RonaLD" ;) There, done, it has a name. Now you HAVE to save Ronald. ;) lol
 
Could you please tell me wht a VVC is ?

VVC means Variable Valve Control. It was a special cylinder head fitted to the highest performance non turbo K series engine. It wasn't fitted to the Freelander, so is generally ignored on this forum. It has some interesting designs and was beefed up considerably by comparison to the standard Freelander K series. It made 143 Bhp when first developed, which was increased to 158 Bhp later on. The VVC was used in the MGF and some other high performance MG/Rover cars.
However it can be ignored in this thread, except it used a manual tensioner with its own strengthened spring and a wider 26mm belt. The normal K series with the manual tensioner used a 23mm wide belt. The auto tensioner K series used a longer belt, also being 26mm wide. At least that's if my memory is still working. It's been a while since I've done a FL1 belt change.
 
Still waiting on the locking device so am on “hold” until it arrives, however I would like to get the parts ordered and with the information you have all provided I have been able to ascertain that its a 26mm belt and probably an auto tensioner. I have included a photo of the tensioner for clarification. If anyone wants to confirm its an auto then that would be great so then I can order the parts, thanks
EB7A92AD-3169-4122-A158-73A1466B0474.jpeg
 
If anyone wants to confirm its an auto then that would be great so then I can order the parts, thanks
eb7a92ad-3169-4122-a158-73a1466b0474-jpeg.153820

You need to illuminate the dark area to the right of the tensioner. That's where you'll see the pointer of the auto tensioner, or spring hole of the manual tensioner.
 
Yip, it's this one
https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/k-series-timing-belt-cambelt-kit-99-on-auto-tensioner
When you go to fit it make sure you clean the side of the engine well to let the auto tensioner move. Even then after turning over the engine a couple of times with a socket on the crank double check the tension the old fashioned way. Twist the belt at the longest point and it shouldn't go past 90 deg.
Last time I fitted one I gave up on auto tensioning it and did it manually, had I trusted it the belt would have slipped on me.
Don't be tempted to start the car without refitting the crank pulley as it stops the belt from sliding off.
In fact hide your keys to prevent you even thinking about it in a tired moment before removing the cam lock. You wouldn't be the first one caught out that way.
 
3187D384-6317-449B-8195-C087EDF644DF.jpeg
[11QUOTE="Colthebrummie, post: 4314007, member: 135159"]While you're ordering bits, you need to replace those ancillary belts.[/QUOTE]
Looks like the RHS (exhaust) camshaft oil seal is leaking. They are pretty cheap and I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.
Note, I didn't say it was easy, just do-able. Make sure you buy a couple of them JIC as they're easily damaged. ;)

Ok so I now have a growing list of parts, carriage is £19 so I will need to make sure I get all I need in this order.
Would anyone like to comment on the camshaft oil seal.....

should I just concentrate on getting the water pump and timing belt done and re-visit the camshaft when I do a secondary big service once I know the water problem is fixed ? Also could someone enlighten me to the “other ancillary belt” As I have already replaced the alternator one but what part is the other one......

As always thanks.

P.s anything else I need to add to the shopping list ?
 
Good call there @Alibro ....... some good savings to be made, i will order as soon as I have tracked down the “other” belt and do a second order when it’s all up and running again.
 
Ok I ordered the stuff yesterday.

Next.

1. Wait for the Haynes manual and cam locking tool.
2. Wait for the parts to arrive.
3. Research changing the camshaft seals.
4. Review various threads on the water pump and tensioner replacement and print of an a-z process
5. Replace camshaft seals
6. Replace water pump, tensioner, timing belt and ancillary belt.
7. Check to see if I have solved the water leak and oil leak.
8. Place another order for all oils, filters and other service items
9. Service the hell out of the car
10 waxoil the hell out the car.
11. Put it back into service
12. Start the axle rebuild on my 1986 defender..........

But today is new bathroom extractor fan and new seals on the wood burning stove plus general life stuff.
 

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