Hippo said:
If it was locked and alarmed, then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery won't lower the tailgate window. I tested this sometime ago to see what would happen. When reconnecting the battery power it will stay locked and alarmed.
Click to expand...

I had wondered that, but have never tried it, now I don't need too.

But what made the FL1 in question lock itself?
 
Ok so the history. I noticed that the back window was down and not wanting it to get wet I hopped in the car and wound it up, but when I switched off the ignition the window went down....... I messed around for a bit and eventually I got it to go up and pulled the keys out of the ignition before it had time to go back down..... thought nothing of it but as the keys are NEVER out of the ignition except to undo the fuel cap (leave the keys in as I live on an island 7 miles long.....) I just chucked them on the seat got out and shut the door. It was not until the next day when I went to pop the bonnet that I found it locked !
 
Nodge68 said:
I had wondered that, but have never tried it, now I don't need too.

But what made the FL1 in question lock itself?
Click to expand...
I wrote about it over ere

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...ith-a-flat-battery.209968/page-2#post-2333069

Yer can't slam lock the drivers door because it will pop the button up. My guess is he locked it with the fob with driver door closed and other door open. Then chucked the key in and closed the last door. It then fully alarmed when the last door closed.

Never come across a fob that could auto lock a FL1 itself so can't think of anything other than the above.

Tailgate window and ignition... Bit strange but it's either not calibration by putting it fully up or more likely it thinks theres a problem with the tailgate window position so it doesnt want to leave it up when he turns on the electrics via ignition. This may be an intermittent fault causing it to sometimes happen.
 
If its doing stuff with the back window when the ignition's turned off, there may be some connection/earthing/supply issues to the CCU might also manifest itself by deciding to lock the doors - think its all controlled by the same clever brain.

I've had mine decide to immobilise itself due to electrical spikes etc, only another step to lock all the doors and shoot any intruders on sight.
 
CPD1973 said:
Ok thanks, an oil seal I can deal with ! Managed to find an old lock nut socket and got the wheel of. Managed to get a photo from below now I can see a bit better. The water is coming from behind and slightly higher than the big double belt wheel, hidden by the said wheel and the lower case of the timing belt cover. Next identifie where the water pump is.... got the manual on its way. View attachment 153557
Click to expand...
While you're ordering bits, you need to replace those ancillary belts.

Col
 
Yes they’ve had there day and will add it to the list. Looking at the timing belt tensioner iit looks like the older manual type.
 
CPD1973 said:
Yes they’ve had there day and will add it to the list. Looking at the timing belt tensioner iit looks like the older manual type.
Click to expand...
I found the manual type is much better and easier to set correctly.
To set the timing correctly before you start you're best to remove the crank pulley and align the two dots. There's loads of photos on the net if you Google it.
I don't know if it's correct procedure but I use a little instant gasket to hold the seal in position while refitting the water pump.
Once the belt is off the cam pulleys are free to move but it's not a problem so long as you have a tool to reposition them.

Lots of folk have trouble getting their cam pulleys aligned when refitting the belt, You commonly hear they are half a tooth out but really they are a whole tooth out on one pulley which looks like half a tooth between the two pulleys. If you use a cam locking tool that won't be a problem but it makes getting the belt back on a real pig.
I don't use one but instead make sure the cams are aligned, hook the belt around the crank pulley then while holding the belt tight I turn the exhaust pulley back a little to allow the belt to hook on, then turn the exhaust pulley back to the correct position which tightens the belt on the RHS.
I can then feed the belt around the inlet pulley and check if the marks line up.
I guess you could do similar with a locking tool and turn the crank back a degree or two to get the belt teeth to mesh then tighten it against the belt.
BTW clothes pegs are very handy for holding the belt on while you hook it around other pulleys. ;)
 
CPD1973 said:
Looking at the timing belt tensioner iit looks like the older manual type
Click to expand...

It's difficult to tell from the angle of the photo, which tensioner is fitted. You can measure the belt width to get an idea though. If it's 23mm wide, then it'll be the manual tensioner. If it's 26mm wide, it'll be the auto tensioner. I'm with Ali and do prefer the manual tensioner, but you must use the correct tensioning spring for it.
 
Ok that’s some great info, I just measured the timing belt and it’s definatly 26mm so thanks for saving me there.... assume nothing !
So now I know what I need.

1. 26mm timing belt
2. An auto tensioner (boo hoo)
3. Water pump and associated gaskets and a bit of gasket sealer to hold it in place
4. Ancillary belt ( I replaced the one on the alternator last year)

5. Looks like the RHS (exhaust) camshaft oil seal is leaking.They are pretty cheap and I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.
Note, I didn't say it was easy, just do-able. Make sure you buy a couple of them JIC as they're easily damaged. ;)

Would anyone else like to comment on No.5 the part where @Alibro says “ I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.” When ever I hear the phrase “I think” I always like to get some more info. No disrespect Alibro

I have already ordered
Haynes manual
Locking tool
Gasket sealant.

Closing in on the research and gathering the parts soon the time for talk will be over and I will need to climb down of the fence and get on with it !
 
CPD1973 said:
Closing in on the research and gathering the parts soon the time for talk will be over and I will need to climb down of the fence and get on with it !
Click to expand...
I can offer little (read that as no) advice on the engine - but I can on this aspect.

When you get off that fence, ensure you have a big flask of coffee to hand, don't scratch your head to much or else you'll have an oily bald patch and make sure there's no kids around unless you want to teach them new words :eek:
 
Nodge68 said:
You also need the correct length timing belt. The manual tensioner equipped VVC also has a 26mm belt but it's 3 teeth shorter iirc.
Click to expand...

Sorry (still green) what is VVC and how do I identify the belt I need.
Do I
1. Take the belt of and count the teeth
2. Look for an identification code on the old belt
3. Some other magic trick

Thanks
 
CPD1973 said:
Ok that’s some great info, I just measured the timing belt and it’s definatly 26mm so thanks for saving me there.... assume nothing !
So now I know what I need.

1. 26mm timing belt
2. An auto tensioner (boo hoo)
3. Water pump and associated gaskets and a bit of gasket sealer to hold it in place
4. Ancillary belt ( I replaced the one on the alternator last year)

5. Looks like the RHS (exhaust) camshaft oil seal is leaking.They are pretty cheap and I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.
Note, I didn't say it was easy, just do-able. Make sure you buy a couple of them JIC as they're easily damaged. ;)

Would anyone else like to comment on No.5 the part where @Alibro says “ I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.” When ever I hear the phrase “I think” I always like to get some more info. No disrespect Alibro

I have already ordered
Haynes manual
Locking tool
Gasket sealant.

Closing in on the research and gathering the parts soon the time for talk will be over and I will need to climb down of the fence and get on with it !
Click to expand...

LOL, none taken. If I'm not certain I use the term "I think", you're right to double check. ;)
 
Are you sure you've got an auto-tensioner? Your car has a distributer, which makes it an earlier (MEMS1.9) 16v MPi engine.

Later, MEMS3 cars used the auto-tensioner, the earlier ones used manual. I had to convert mine to manual as I needed to replace the cylinder head... But that is another story and hopefully not relevant to you! LOL ;)
 
Whilst knowledgable advice is invaluable, sometimes you can get too much of it and the task in hand that was once considered reasonably simple, suddenly sounds hopelessly complicated. I've been thinking about replacing the belt on my 1.8 but having read this thread, I don't think I'll bother. No offence meant to all those offering good advice.

Col
 
Col, honestly, you can do this :) These engines really are simple, bolt together bits of kit, and working on the Freelander is pretty straightforward and easy (I also play with MGFs...!)

From the pictures, you have a dislocated exhaust cam oil seal. As Alibro says, this can be easily replaced if you remove the cam wheel and the rear cover.

The water leak, I am pretty certain, is as Nodge diagnosed, a water pump. To get to this, you need to remove the front covers (which you've already done) and maybe you can sort to the oil seal at the same time.

Changing the timing belt is straightforward - the biggest psychological barrier to over come is the engine mount - and actually, again, that is not difficult - and if you can fix most things, you can certainly fix this :D

This car sounds like it's largely indestructible. I reckon it needs saving.

If you're not careful, I'll give it a name - and then you'll have to save it ;) lol
 
I will wait for the cam locking device and then take the pump and tensioner off and have a good look.

Colthebrummie said:
Whilst knowledgable advice is invaluable, sometimes you can get too much of it and the task in hand that was once considered reasonably simple, suddenly sounds hopelessly complicated. I've been thinking about replacing the belt on my 1.8 but having read this thread, I don't think I'll bother. No offence meant to all those offering good advice.
Click to expand...

I am in a situation where if I don’t fix this car then it’s at the end of its days, I have made the decision to get on with it, tentative steps, research each move and try and not get it wrong as i dont have the time or money to make an arse of it. If it was not essential I would have a dozen other pressing jobs that need to be done and it would slip down the priority list.

All help and advice very welcome and I am happy to sift through the information provided to glean the best way forward.

Thanks
 
P.s there are two of us called “Col” I am the original poster and the other col is the brummie ! I will put a pic up on my profile !
 
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