new water pump and a new timing belt and new tentioners ( a must on any engine) shouldn't take more than 3 hours from start to finish including bleeding the cooling system so its not a big job but you may need the k series cam shaft locking tool which sits between the cam sprockets

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-18G1570P

Personally I wouldnt worry about locking the bottom end as long as you dont move it once thebetls off theres enough internal friction in a k series to keep it where it needs to be

Id also invest in the haynes manual too as that will help with the process

with regards to the sealnt to use in addition to the gasket make sure its an automotive one thats oil and coolant resistant

worst bit on a k series is getting the bottom pulley bolt off rest of its pretty simple as long as you dont come across seized botls
 
Ok I am tracking down the parts.
There seems to be two diffrent sorts of tensioner will I need o pull it apart first to find out which one it is before ordering.
Some great advise from the “locals” and a great forum for a guy like me stuck on a remote island with a fleet of old cars and a box of tools.
have tracked down sealant and cam locker.
Is there a preferred brand of spares as I know from my defender thread that this is a “passionate” issue and don’t want to be the newbie who buys the spare parts then post a pic of my work only to have half a dozen enthusiasts thow metaphorical spanner’s at me......
Thanks. Col
 
Avoid anything with britpart ( also known as shitpart) sometimes its ok sometimes it will need modifying to fit as i found out on my old discovery with a rear wiper arm that needed amending to work correctly


ive used these guys befoe and their alright

https://www.famousfour.co.uk/new_pa...der&sec=eng&sub_sec=waterpump&eng=e_18_petrol

£38 for a new pump
and the other bits wont brake he bank either

upload_2018-7-12_12-28-3.png
 
You can check the type of tensioner by taking off the cam belt cover and it should be obvious. (from memory one of the bolts screws in from the other side so is a bit of a gotcha if you aren't aware). I think there are two types of belt too so buy the whole lot as a kit.
I think Eurocarparts do it too if they are closer.
 
God........ I just went out this morning with the intention of removing the cover and have a look at what tensioner I need and the car has locked itself with the keys sitting on the drivers seat....... please tell me someone knows how to get into a Freelander without smashing a window........
 
If only.... and as I am on a remote island with only 65 people and no services there is no chance of getting the local car lock smith ,,,,,,
 
If no spare is available then is the bonnet open? If so striking the impact switch "might" pop the locks
 
Nodge68 said:
If no spare is available then is the bonnet open? If so striking the impact switch "might" pop the locks
Click to expand...
Or disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it would lower the boot window.

I take it this still works when the car is locked?
 
Bonnet shut, all windows up, I can assure you there is no spare key. The back window is down very slightly... I guess this must have triggered something.
 
Alibro said:
Or disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it would lower the boot window.
Click to expand...

I didn't think of that this morning Ali, but it will work.
CPD1973 said:
Bonnet shut, all windows up, I can assure you there is no spare key.
Click to expand...

Really you need to pop the bonnet.
CPD1973 said:
The back window is down very slightly..
Click to expand...

Can you push the window down? If you're lucky, there was some kind of power interruption and the cables broke as the window went down.
 
Ok successful, managed to prise the back window open just enough to then get a stick and open the side window, from there I got some stiff fencing wire and made a hook and hooked the keys of the front seat and slowly extract ! Thanks for all the ideas and help, bravo
 
So got the side cover off and was going to take the wheel of for the first time in six years and there is a locking nut ! There is another Freelander of the same ilk on the island so I will go and raid it for the correct socket as the one I have did not come with it...........
So there are two obvious leaks, an oil leak from behind the timing belt wheel and a water leak from much lower down, hopefully the water pump.
What are people’s views on the oil leak, remember the car starts and runs great, only ever driven for 25 min / 2 miles twice to three times a week. The oil on the dipstick does not show signs of water contamination.
4E80F01F-90B1-4BD9-91D5-803882227A01.jpeg
 
CPD1973 said:
So got the side cover off and was going to take the wheel of for the first time in six years and there is a locking nut ! There is another Freelander of the same ilk on the island so I will go and raid it for the correct socket as the one I have did not come with it...........
So there are two obvious leaks, an oil leak from behind the timing belt wheel and a water leak from much lower down, hopefully the water pump.
What are people’s views on the oil leak, remember the car starts and runs great, only ever driven for 25 min / 2 miles twice to three times a week. The oil on the dipstick does not show signs of water contamination. View attachment 153549
Click to expand...
Looks like the RHS (exhaust) camshaft oil seal is leaking. They are pretty cheap and I think you can fit them by just pulling off the pulley.
Note, I didn't say it was easy, just do-able. Make sure you buy a couple of them JIC as they're easily damaged. ;)
 
Last edited:
Ok thanks, an oil seal I can deal with ! Managed to find an old lock nut socket and got the wheel of. Managed to get a photo from below now I can see a bit better. The water is coming from behind and slightly higher than the big double belt wheel, hidden by the said wheel and the lower case of the timing belt cover. Next identifie where the water pump is.... got the manual on its way.
22438CA8-2031-45D6-8818-AB6BB7502376.jpeg
 
Ok so if that’s the pump (thanks). Then that does not look good as the water is not leaking from there....... but from the behind the big double belt wheel. I suppose I will need to take off the belts, that big wheel and have a look behind the lower timing belt cover....
 
Alibro said:
Or disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it would lower the boot window.

I take it this still works when the car is locked?
Click to expand...
If it was locked and alarmed, then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery won't lower the tailgate window. I tested this sometime ago to see what would happen. When reconnecting the battery power it will stay locked and alarmed.
 
CPD1973 said:
Ok so if that’s the pump (thanks). Then that does not look good as the water is not leaking from there....... but from the behind the big double belt wheel. I suppose I will need to take off the belts, that big wheel and have a look behind the lower timing belt cover....
Click to expand...

It's normal for the the coolant to dribble down behind the timing belt cover, emerging by the crank pulley. ;)
 
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