U

Uttamt

Member
I have a 54 plated TD4 Freelander 1. Recently I had an error showing on dash, pic attached. Issue with automatic transmission with yellow hill decent sign & flashing F & 4 fault sign. Any suggestion as what could this be for? Issue while driving is that there is a thud sound when the car starts & struggles to get into motion. Thanks in advance.
IMG_9750.jpg
 
Reading codes won't get you far. The vast majority of F4 flashing errors won't provide a code. The majority are caused by wiring harness problems or sensor/solenoids reporting incorrectly. We have been doing resistance tests to solve them for over a decade. Loads of success on the forum in the Freelander section.

Perform the resistance test in the video below

resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
 
Hippo said:
Reading codes won't get you far. The vast majority of F4 flashing errors won't provide a code. The majority are caused by wiring harness problems or sensor/solenoids reporting incorrectly. We have been doing resistance tests to solve them for over a decade. Loads of success on the forum in the Freelander section.

Perform the resistance test in the video below

resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
Click to expand...
My friend as just purchased one day later this problem is it a simple diy fix and is it expense
 
Dar ran Dar ran said:
My friend as just purchased one day later this problem is it a simple diy fix and is it expense
Click to expand...
It depends on the fault. If it is a wiring harness fault like a broken wire, it can be repaired easily. If it is a faulty solenoid then you have to take the front metal cover off the gearbox and replace the solenoid. That's more difficult. Others on here have done it and put photo's up.
 
Dar ran Dar ran said:
more likely to be a wiring fault ?
Click to expand...
As said above, check the dash display matches the LED status by the gear lever. There's two wiring harnesses traveling to the gearbox. One is control/sense. The other is the gear lever selection monitoring.
 
Kevm said:
Does the display match the position of the gearstick ...Park, Drive , reverse etc ?
Click to expand...
It’s extremely strange it’s been in limp since this morning even though it drove 100m + yesterday no problem 🤷‍♂️
So he drove down to me this afternoon
i took the gear selector up and made sure nothing had came loose the tab that holds the connection for the wires was not full shut but it all looks clean, put it back together and started the engine
No fault
off we went on a drive But shortly after the happy smug feeling disappeared around the 4m mark when it came back on 🙄so we brought it back started looking around for any thing simple but nothing jumps out tbh
the fault will disappear if you stop start the engine but reappear on the 5s mark after starting and I couldn’t reproduce the situation were it stopped off for 4m
 
Hippo said:
As said above, check the dash display matches the LED status by the gear lever. There's two wiring harnesses traveling to the gearbox. One is control/sense. The other is the gear lever selection monitoring.
Click to expand...
it was when I managed to get it to run out of limp
 
This is beyond my skill set and I am much more skilled than the owner so
is it a auto election or a Good loc garage to sort out?
 
Hippo said:
If you have a multimeter you can perform the test in the video below to see if you can find the problem.
The video also shows the barrel connectors. They can move apart, causing problems simular to what you describe.

resistance video = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTmdkDuKZ6A
Click to expand...
The biggest problem is my eyes I am really struggling with seeing small details even with specs
I had a nightmare doing the fuel rail overlay upgrade
 
Dar ran Dar ran said:
The biggest problem is my eyes I am really struggling with seeing small details even with specs
I had a nightmare doing the fuel rail overlay upgrade
Click to expand...
Do you have someone to do the test for you under your instruction? Its saved hundreds of peeps world wide across different vehicles that use the same gearbox, the cost of paying someone to test and repair minor faults.
 
I think we have no choice at this point
Unfortunately we live in a kind of bubble
It’s a rural area and basically it’s still stuck in the 70s regarding choice and working hours

Everyone any good is A not interested or B booked up for the next few weeks

I should be finished early Tuesday afternoon and hopefully my Son is after something and is prepared to help 🤨
I shall take a blow by blow picture and post so if you see anything I haven’t please please feel free to roll your eyes and let me know

Like always a big thanks to you and everyone who takes time to help out on the forum
 
I believe that is the usual culprit ( it was on mine ), however its still worth doing the resistance tests as mentioned previously to eliminate any possible wiring issues first.
 
Just a quick update
He actually bought it privately and for some reasons he made that big of a fuss the person who he bought it from gave him his money back 😮
 
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