Joe_H said:
HI Alibro,
If you can, a better way is to attach some pins ( a couple of nails will do ;) ) to the spirit level that just touch the actual rim at top and bottom. You could use a couple of small g cramps or similar to attach them to the level.(or any other method) Definitely take the readings off the rim ! - you will never get a good measure from the tyre.
Also if you get a couple of tea tray type things and lower the front wheel into those, it makes it easy to do a lock to lock steer and return to centre prior to the check.
(they act as a skid plate). You can even put a bit of fairy liquid under the tyre where it touches the tray.
We used to do that years ago when making changes (new suspension arms and 'tweaking' with a block of wood and a lump hammer - or a bottle jack and pole - ho hum - after small brushes with solid thing that knocked the top of the McPherson strut a mm or two :) :) - at least if you used a strut brace it shifted both sides lol.:rolleyes:), simple use the pins / nails to get the spirit level bubble centred, no measurements needed.
When replacing the unit with the lifts on put the pins against the rim again and simply re-adjust for a centre bubble. Also worth taking the car around the block prior and after to settle the suspension. Flatten one edge of the tea tray skid plate so you can drive onto it and not jack onto it.
:D
Enjoy
Joe


Thanks mate will give that a try but was also a bit concerned that the measuring really needs done with the wheels on the ground so will do it both ways. To be honest I'm not going to stress too much about it because others have fitted lift kits without bothering about camber pins so it probably isn't that critical.
.

Hi mate, I did mean with the wheel firmly on the ground :) - all I was getting it is when you let the suspension down (after fitting the bits) drive it round about 20 / 30 mtrs to settle, then use the pins / nails that were clamped to the spirit level during the original measurement before mods - and the spirit level actually on the rim of those 'wheels' (and I use the term loosely :D) and not on the tyre ;):rolleyes: - when you adjust the camber back so that the bubble is level again - you are back to the original camber as near as bu88er it.

:p
Joe
 
Alibro.
I really like the colour, however, If you put some ladders on the roof you are going to get mistaken for a fire engine.
I had to go page to Page 1 and check this out the pics.... I agree, it would so look like a fire engine - a ladder each side and brass bell mounted centrally in front of the 'targa' :)

People pay thousands for Landie fire engines :)
 
I had to go page to Page 1 and check this out the pics.... I agree, it would so look like a fire engine - a ladder each side and brass bell mounted centrally in front of the 'targa' :)

People pay thousands for Landie fire engines :)

:eek: with those wheels ? - It would be like a 'Pimped' up Trumpton truck :D

"Pugh, Pugh, Barney McGrew, Alibro, Dibble, Grub."
 
Joe_H said:
HI Alibro,
If you can, a better way is to attach some pins ( a couple of nails will do ;) ) to the spirit level that just touch the actual rim at top and bottom. You could use a couple of small g cramps or similar to attach them to the level.(or any other method) Definitely take the readings off the rim ! - you will never get a good measure from the tyre.
Also if you get a couple of tea tray type things and lower the front wheel into those, it makes it easy to do a lock to lock steer and return to centre prior to the check.
(they act as a skid plate). You can even put a bit of fairy liquid under the tyre where it touches the tray.
We used to do that years ago when making changes (new suspension arms and 'tweaking' with a block of wood and a lump hammer - or a bottle jack and pole - ho hum - after small brushes with solid thing that knocked the top of the McPherson strut a mm or two :) :) - at least if you used a strut brace it shifted both sides lol.:rolleyes:), simple use the pins / nails to get the spirit level bubble centred, no measurements needed.
When replacing the unit with the lifts on put the pins against the rim again and simply re-adjust for a centre bubble. Also worth taking the car around the block prior and after to settle the suspension. Flatten one edge of the tea tray skid plate so you can drive onto it and not jack onto it.
:D
Enjoy
Joe




Hi mate, I did mean with the wheel firmly on the ground :) - all I was getting it is when you let the suspension down (after fitting the bits) drive it round about 20 / 30 mtrs to settle, then use the pins / nails that were clamped to the spirit level during the original measurement before mods - and the spirit level actually on the rim of those 'wheels' (and I use the term loosely :D) and not on the tyre ;):rolleyes: - when you adjust the camber back so that the bubble is level again - you are back to the original camber as near as bu88er it.

:p
Joe
Sounds like a plan. :)

I had to go page to Page 1 and check this out the pics.... I agree, it would so look like a fire engine - a ladder each side and brass bell mounted centrally in front of the 'targa' :)

People pay thousands for Landie fire engines :)
Your just having a go cause I said you couldn't catch a fish with a fish net in a fish farm. :p
 
I've been researching wheels and tyres and came across these.
http://www.4x4tyres.info/16-inch-x-7-inch-5114-silver-modular-wheel-for-freelander
and these
http://www.4x4tyres.info/20580r16-kingpin-mud-tracker-4x4-retread--tyre
http://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-details/hankook-rf10-205-80-r16-110-108-s-mfs#116230902
If I'm seriously considering using the car for off road it would make more sense to buy MT tyres rather than AT but having never had a car with MT tyres I'm very unsure what to buy. This car is mostly to be a toy for me so I don't need to worry about mpg or comfort but being tight I don't want to spend silly money on tyres and wheels but want the tallest tyres I can fit. I don't mind making adjustments to the wheel arches but want to avoid having to fit wheel spacers cause they are over £200 for decent ones from Muddy Mods and don't fancy the cheap rubbish from ebay.
Anyone any suggestions



That don't include ladders and bells. :mad:
 
Sounds like a plan. :)


Your just having a go cause I said you couldn't catch a fish with a fish net in a fish farm. :p
Funny you should say that, we spent a lot of time the other day fishing here...

20160816_143727.jpg


Those nets are a Salmon farm - they extend for about a km down the canal. You drop baits/lures in beside the nets and let them drift down and along with the current - 'wild' fish hang out under the nets waiting for food to drop through. The canals are very deep and water races through them - they're purpose built hydro canals - nothing to do with transportation - in fact its illegal to put a boat on them.
 
I've been researching wheels and tyres and came across these.
http://www.4x4tyres.info/16-inch-x-7-inch-5114-silver-modular-wheel-for-freelander
and these
http://www.4x4tyres.info/20580r16-kingpin-mud-tracker-4x4-retread--tyre
http://www.oponeo.co.uk/tyre-details/hankook-rf10-205-80-r16-110-108-s-mfs#116230902
If I'm seriously considering using the car for off road it would make more sense to buy MT tyres rather than AT but having never had a car with MT tyres I'm very unsure what to buy. This car is mostly to be a toy for me so I don't need to worry about mpg or comfort but being tight I don't want to spend silly money on tyres and wheels but want the tallest tyres I can fit. I don't mind making adjustments to the wheel arches but want to avoid having to fit wheel spacers cause they are over £200 for decent ones from Muddy Mods and don't fancy the cheap rubbish from ebay.
Anyone any suggestions



That don't include ladders and bells. :mad:
:)

Depends where you want to take it as to whether you should go MT. If it is on private pay-and-play sites, then yeh, bung MTs on and churn their dirt up. If its public green lanes then check whether its is acceptable/right to use MT. ATs will do a lot less damage to what you are driving on.
 
Off road and play only, you'll be fine with grabbers;)
They are however noisy and only average on the road.
 
Not sure why the sad face at the colour. I think it is a nicer colour than mine.
And I wish mine was Auto. :(

Thanks. I like your red :)cos with the back off it'll be an eye catcher but I do like any red and I do like my red.
Got to admit I looked for a while for an auto.
 
I just found these at a very reasonable price with an aggressive pattern not unlike the Grabbers.
http://www.eco-tyre.co.uk/tyres/gripmax-gripmax-at-225-75-r16-108t-xl-raised-white-letter/

New wheels and tyres would work out around £500 for 5.
Can't be bad to that
You should get a good price for the 'Vomit Discs' on Fleabay - surely there will be a bass thumping - backward cap wearing - low IQ - spotty faced - knuckle dragging 'night time repairer of church roofs' that would want a set ?
:rolleyes:
 
The Freelander was under braked by comparison to the competition of the time. By today's standards, it's seriously under braked..

That's a concern - I haven't driven mine apart from a test drive and TBH didn't notice that the brakes were any weaker than others. I guess time will tell.
 
I've been researching wheels and tyres and came across these.
Anyone any suggestions

Just a thought. The LR PCD blah blah blah is the same on FTO wheels. They come in a 6.5" width, are 16s and have the exact same design as the LR wheels. Two advantages are they are as cheap as chips and have a little less backspace, just a few mm (ET is 38 compared to the LR 40) but it positions them just right under the arch on the hub. You will probably need some spigots.....a fiver for 4............and you will need flat lugnuts (Ie. with washers) you can get a 225 on them and 70s will clear well so a 225 75 could be a goer.
 
That's a concern - I haven't driven mine apart from a test drive and TBH didn't notice that the brakes were any weaker than others. I guess time will tell.
The newer Freelanders (TD4 on) have excellent brakes so shouldn't be a problem
 

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