Thanks for the advice. I don't have oven cleaner handy but plenty of heating oil (paraffin) so will have a go at it with that. I ordered a spare manifold and EGR off ebay this morning so will always have a clean spare to hand.
I'm doing my VCU later in the summer. I'm not going to cut mine open though. I'm going to drill and tap a thread in opposite sides of the casing. Then I'm going to use a grease gun filled with the fluid to pump in the new, hopefully pumping out the old fluid in the process. I'll then fit screwed in plugs to seal the holes. That's the idea anyway.My mate is busting to see how it's done so not allowed to touch it unless he is here. It's a messy job tho so happy to share it.
Kerosene will work just fine for breaking up the black gunge. I used some on mine last weekend.
I think you might have to put white spirit or similar in first and run it for a while to try and thin the old fluid. It becomes like glue so won't be easy to shift. You really have no chance of shifting the fluid which is in between the disks
I was going to give the fluid time to flow out. I think a daily turn a few degrees will help drain the fluid from between the plates. I'll have a month or so to get it out. My VCU isn't solid at 45 seconds for the OWUT. I hope the fluid is still fluid, not jelly
The filter is the turbo breather. It just hangs down the back with one end open.Was poking about in the engine bay and noticed this hanging down the back of the engine.
It is dry and doesn't smell of diesel so I don't think it's been filtering much for a while?????
Anyone any ideas what is going on here?
Also noticed this pipe flopping about.
I was thinking it is just a breather pipe and was able to snap it back into a clip so unless told otherwise I'm happy enough about it.
This is the manifold soaking in kerosene with strong paper towel shoved in the holes to act as a wick. Now I'm seriously considering an EGR bypass, I don't ever want to have to do this again.
Mine runs horrible without the EGR working as it should. It gives my TD4 the 2K misfire.
Sorry lost on me.
I checked this page on Rimmers http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009787 and found two part numbers for the rear inner drive shaft gaiter, then ordered this gaiter http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-TDR100710 from a cheaper supplier on ebay. It is too big for my drive shaft so I'm thinking his is the one I need. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-TDR500220 but I will try to get it locally so I can double check it's correct before handing over the cash.
I seem to remember reading that there was a change in rear drive shafts. I'm not sure what changed or when however.
Some say 01 and some say 03, take your pick.
You'll get about 1/2 a Litre of oil out of the diff. I fill them to the filler hole which is about 700ml of oil. I use an 80w90 semi synthetic in the rear diff.I just finished replacing the diff supports. What a pig of a job that was, not complicated but awkward to do while lying on your back having a constant shower of rust falling your eyes. Wrestling the N/S support into position was the hardest part but it's done now so once the O/S gaiter issue is sorted I'll replace the diff oil.
I'm not sure how much oil should be in the diff but I had expected to loose some when the propshaft was pulled out but none came out. Even when the diff was being pushed around to change the mounts it didn't spill any. I was also surprised to find that the diff mount bolts had copper grease so had a look at the service history and they were done last year only 8k miles ago.
I guess a combination of tight VCU and cheap rubbish parts are responsible for their short life. I used a Land Rover front mount but Bearmach rears as the rears don't get as much abuse.
I suspect mine is low then so will have to sort that out too. Any suggestions how to drain it?
