Alibro said:
I suspect mine is low then so will have to sort that out too. Any suggestions how to drain it?
Click to expand...
2 options there. First is remove the rear cover plate, drain the oil, mop out the remnants, clean and reseal the cover.
Second option isn't in the book but I have used it on my first Freelander.
When I did it, I drilled a hole in the bottom flat area then threaded it to take an 8 mm socket headed bolt. The aluminium is about 20mm thick at that point and is easy to thread if you have the equipment. Once I'd drilled and threaded the hole I counter drilled a 12mm hole just deap enough for the head of the socket bolt to be flush with the bottom plate. I used a copper washer to make the oil tight seal.
When I changed the diff oil a few weeks back, I removed the rear plate as I wanted to check the diff for wear. Next oil change, I'll drill the casing as above as it's much faster then messing about with the rear cover. Maybe I'll do a "how to" at the same time.
 
Nodge68 said:
2 options there. First is remove the rear cover plate, drain the oil, mop out the remnants, clean and reseal the cover.
Second option isn't in the book but I have used it on my first Freelander.
When I did it, I drilled a hole in the bottom flat area then threaded it to take an 8 mm socket headed bolt. The aluminium is about 20mm thick at that point and is easy to thread if you have the equipment. Once I'd drilled and threaded the hole I counter drilled a 12mm hole just deap enough for the head of the socket bolt to be flush with the bottom plate. I used a copper washer to make the oil tight seal.
When I changed the diff oil a few weeks back, I removed the rear plate as I wanted to check the diff for wear. Next oil change, I'll drill the casing as above as it's much faster then messing about with the rear cover. Maybe I'll do a "how to" at the same time.
Click to expand...
I think I'd rather take the cover off, what did you use to reseal it? I have some anaerobic gasket so I guess that would do the job
 
Alibro said:
I think I'd rather take the cover off, what did you use to reseal it? I have some anaerobic gasket so I guess that would do the job
Click to expand...
The rear cover is sealed with a standard silicone flange sealer. Halfords have stock Loctite SI 5660 which, I suspect was originally used by LR. An anaerobic sealer won't work because a large area of the joint is open to the atmosphere.
 
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Nodge68 said:
The rear cover is sealed with a standard silicone flange sealer. Halfords have stock Loctite SI 5660 which, I suspect was originally used by LR. An anaerobic sealer won't work because a large area of the joint is open to the atmosphere.
Click to expand...
OK thanks.
 
Nodge68 said:
You'll get about 1/2 a Litre of oil out of the diff. I fill them to the filler hole which is about 700ml of oil. I use an 80w90 semi synthetic in the rear diff.
Click to expand...
Would 75W90 be ok? I have a couple of litres of it already.
 
Nodge68 said:
I don't see why not. It's going to be better than what's in there already.
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's what I thought too.

Things not going quite according to plan today. I can't get the rear propshaft back together without the correct gaiter so have ordered one from here http://www.totalparts.co.uk/land-rover/tdr500220-kit-boot-freelander-2003-my-supplier-allmakes.html
Mainly because their postage to NI is more reasonable at £3.50 than most suppliers who want to charge around £16, but also because it is a good GKN part for a very reasonible price.

Then the missus was complaining about the handle on her K series being dodgy so went to replace the spring and as usual the handle fell apart on me with one of the captive bolts coming away. :(
So no problem I thought, I'll pinch the one off Audrey, and this was what I found.
20160502_131556_zpssgklulvj.jpg


To add insult one of the bolts sheared on me so I now have to repair both handles and Audrey's rear door.
This is the handle of the K series. I have some very strong silicon sealant so have jammed the bolt back in and smeared sealant around all the bolts.
20160502_131621_zpsepzwcmnb.jpg

Hopefully this should be strong enough to hold it but we will see. I'll probably use liquid metal for the other handle but it isn't as urgent as the car is off the road anyway.

Edit, Just did a similar job on Audreys handle with the same sealant so will check both tomorrow and see how they go. This time I'll put lots of copper slip over anything that looks like it might corrode and hopefully they will be fine for another few years.
 
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Well if you can buy 3.....

Bid on a V6 yesterday and am still leading the bidding almost 24 hours later. Shall have to see if I can get finance, what are the repayments on a Quid over 5 years?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1078589654

lol

Had to put a token bid on just for the unbelievable tale as to why it is for sale.

Edit : Might have to ask to have my bid removed. Just checked the records and it shows that it was imported into the country 2nd hand from Japan in 2008 and manufactured in Germany. Well dodgy, don't know if I should risk my quid on it.
 
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I'd buy it as along as I could prove I'd own it after paying over the cash. It's going to have a decent value as a runner or parts.
 
On the rear handle problem. I used a two part epoxy resin to hold the bolt that sheared. Covered the inside and rear behind the handle with underseal after cleaning it. 5 years on and it's still holding!!
I shall now go outside and check it's not dropped offo_O
Mike
 
Alibro said:
Thanks, that's what I thought too.

Things not going quite according to plan today. I can't get the rear propshaft back together without the correct gaiter so have ordered one from here http://www.totalparts.co.uk/land-rover/tdr500220-kit-boot-freelander-2003-my-supplier-allmakes.html
Mainly because their postage to NI is more reasonable at £3.50 than most suppliers who want to charge around £16, but also because it is a good GKN part for a very reasonible price.

Then the missus was complaining about the handle on her K series being dodgy so went to replace the spring and as usual the handle fell apart on me with one of the captive bolts coming away. :(
So no problem I thought, I'll pinch the one off Audrey, and this was what I found.
20160502_131556_zpssgklulvj.jpg


To add insult one of the bolts sheared on me so I now have to repair both handles and Audrey's rear door.
This is the handle of the K series. I have some very strong silicon sealant so have jammed the bolt back in and smeared sealant around all the bolts.
20160502_131621_zpsepzwcmnb.jpg

Hopefully this should be strong enough to hold it but we will see. I'll probably use liquid metal for the other handle but it isn't as urgent as the car is off the road anyway.

Edit, Just did a similar job on Audreys handle with the same sealant so will check both tomorrow and see how they go. This time I'll put lots of copper slip over anything that looks like it might corrode and hopefully they will be fine for another few years.
Click to expand...

Even worse than mine! Though my handle is off but the bolts are still in the door...
 
davidsmith1307 said:
Even worse than mine! Though my handle is off but the bolts are still in the door...
Click to expand...
Yeah, great design from LR. Cars have only had door handles for the last 80 years or so and LR can't make one that lasts for more than a few years without falling off.
BTW two of my bolts came away from the handles which is why they needed glued back on.
 
Had a few hours working on Audrey tonight, finally got the rear O/S drive shaft inner gaiter replaced. The first one I ordered was supposed to be correct for my car but was too big so I had to order the later model for post 2003 cars (my car's 02 :confused:). Also checked the Diff oil which seemed to be fine. I took out the fill bung and pumped a little oil in but immediately it started pouring out again nice an clean so happy with that.
Also thought I might as well replace the fuel filter as a new one came with the car. I had started to to it a few days ago but ran into an issue when I noticed the gear change bracket was bashing against one of the fuel hoses. It looks like whoever replaced the clutch had been a bit ham fisted and broke the bracket which should secure two fuel hoses to the chassis rail. There is a hole around 8mm in the chassis so I made a bracket and secured it to the chassis with a plastic scrivet, then used a cable tie to secure the hoses to the bracket. I should have taken photo's but you know how it is.
While I had the rear in the air I also replaced the exhaust back box which had a hole where the support hanger was welded on.
Finally before refitting the rear O/S wheel it was a good time to check the rear brakes. It looks like they were replaced recently so that's a job I don't need to worry about.


So probably a good time to update the 'jobs to do' list on post #1 of this thread.
 
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I forgot to mention I also discovered why the VCU was sooo goosed at only 115k miles. The usual story unfortunately of new tyres fitted to the front, however they are a different make to the rears which have a slightly lower profile, so I did a quick and dirty measurement and the difference is currently around 5 - 10mm. I say currently because the difference was probably more when the fronts were new as they're a few thousand miles old now.
Once back on all four wheels I'll take a more accurate measurement but that would also explain why I felt the drive train stiffen up on the way home and why it felt really tight going forwards on full lock during the test drive.
I also started the car last night after replacing the fuel filter and was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was. I never checked what the correct method was but just pulled one of the leakback connectors out and turned on the ignition until fuel came out. Bunged it back in and it started on the second turn of the key. :)
 
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