ming
SPACE TWOT
And what a stupid design it is don't know why they put it in that cowel and under all the electronic bits. . . but trust me it is worth doing,now this is only my theory so i am open to debate on this one,that people whom for one reason or another put fuel injector cleaner in the tank unwittingly cause problems as the dirt in the tank gets dislodged first and that can cause the pump in the tank to malfunction or that 1st filter to block or if it gets past that the filter or pump under the wheel arch, this also happens with other makes but where you have the silly two pump design this is more of a problem. . . Ming 
willo
Well-Known Member
Hi all,
Yesterday evening I found an entry on this forum in which it was said that the housing of the filter has two locating lugs on the back, so today I thought it can't be that difficult to fix it correctly, but wat a wrong thought that was, half a day I've been busy trying to fix it the correct way but with no use. Besides the two lugs (kind of hooks located on top and bottom of that fixing plate) there is also a kind of vertical fin to align the two lugs as all has to be done 'blindfold', I managed to put in the vertical fin but could only either hook in the upper or the lower end, not both as it should. In the end I gave up and I hooked in the upper one, with the vertical fin and the screw on top. I hope it will hold this way ?
Maybe when passing in the garage it 'might' be I'll mention something about that and see how they handle this. It looks to me that when you have put the vertical fin in correct position and the two hooks in front of the respective openings one should be able to push the whole housing gradually towards the innerwing and when against the holder plate than slide it all down so that the two hooks fall into the two slots but the place to work is so limited (it's a job for a one-armed paperhanger) that you can't get creative at all, the only things I now have is two sore arms and hands by trying left and right and also my legs hurt by bending over that ECU housing as much as possible. The location of that one topscrew is best spotted far right through the gap between the ECU and the fusebox and lit with a penlight. Anyway, for the time being it is fixed the way described above and this way it will stay.
be carefull as there are 2 screws holding that silly plastic bit. . .one of them has an earth cable on the back[you have to feel for it], however this earth helps with the pre heater so just make sure it is back in its position. . . Ming
Hi Ming,
Re the above, yes, there is a small earthcable connected to the back of the housing, and it is still there.
Yesterday evening I found an entry on this forum in which it was said that the housing of the filter has two locating lugs on the back, so today I thought it can't be that difficult to fix it correctly, but wat a wrong thought that was, half a day I've been busy trying to fix it the correct way but with no use. Besides the two lugs (kind of hooks located on top and bottom of that fixing plate) there is also a kind of vertical fin to align the two lugs as all has to be done 'blindfold', I managed to put in the vertical fin but could only either hook in the upper or the lower end, not both as it should. In the end I gave up and I hooked in the upper one, with the vertical fin and the screw on top. I hope it will hold this way ?
Maybe when passing in the garage it 'might' be I'll mention something about that and see how they handle this. It looks to me that when you have put the vertical fin in correct position and the two hooks in front of the respective openings one should be able to push the whole housing gradually towards the innerwing and when against the holder plate than slide it all down so that the two hooks fall into the two slots but the place to work is so limited (it's a job for a one-armed paperhanger) that you can't get creative at all, the only things I now have is two sore arms and hands by trying left and right and also my legs hurt by bending over that ECU housing as much as possible. The location of that one topscrew is best spotted far right through the gap between the ECU and the fusebox and lit with a penlight. Anyway, for the time being it is fixed the way described above and this way it will stay.
be carefull as there are 2 screws holding that silly plastic bit. . .one of them has an earth cable on the back[you have to feel for it], however this earth helps with the pre heater so just make sure it is back in its position. . . Ming
Hi Ming,
Re the above, yes, there is a small earthcable connected to the back of the housing, and it is still there.
ming
SPACE TWOT
Willo. . .you have my full sorrow . . . it is indeed a very stupid design, to complicated to type out to explain , must be an easy mod for this, glad you spotted the earth connection [many get caught on it as you cannot see it] you got me mad now... but I'm mad anyway,thats what my therapist told me and she should know, cos she only undoes my strait jacket , when i type on de landy zone ha ha ha dribble dribble glug glug . . . Ming
willo
Well-Known Member
ming said:Willo. . .you have my full sorrow . . . it is indeed a very stupid design, to complicated to type out to explain , must be an easy mod for this, glad you spotted the earth connection [many get caught on it as you cannot see it] you got me mad now... but I'm mad anyway,thats what my therapist told me and she should know, cos she only undoes my strait jacket , when i type on de landy zone ha ha ha dribble dribble glug glug . . . Ming
Hi Ming,
Thanks for drawing my attention on that earthcable anyway, and sorry to hear you're only kind of 'released' a couple of hours per day. By the way, what colour does your straightjacket have ? Is it a gree, purple, red, or just a dull plain white one ???
willo
Well-Known Member
Labiarat said:the boys from solihull are to blame !
Why ?? I find it perfectly normal that two parts, supposed to be joined together, (at least meant to) can't fit ?? What else could an Hippo owner otherwise have to moan about ??
Seriously, I find it inexcusable that on a car like a LandRover such a thing can happen. It would be a piece of cake if either the receiving part screwed to the body was straight or else the filter housing was straight but apparently they are not. If both were straight all one needed to do was to position the vertical 'fin' (to avoid the lateral movement of the filterhousing and also to align the two hooks onto the holes in the body) into the slot, than position the two 'hooks' in front of the two foreseen holes and push everything gently together whereafter the filterhousing can be lowered until the hooks reach the bottom of the holes, the weight alone of the complete housing including the filled filter and the pump would keep everything on place, but on top of that there is also an extra screw to keep everything together and in place, so why that special gimmick situation they invented ??
When you introduce that fin in the first place it looks as if it oscilates on something in the middle as either the lower or the upper hook can be introduced into the foreseen hole, but in my case not both at the same time (as it should be), I had a rather hard time to put it upwards when I changed the filter thus there is some restraint down there which makes it so difficult (impossible) to mount it back again afterwards. I understand from MY03 on they installed the fuelfilter in the rear wheelarch ? Is the almost impossible situation in the front the reason for that ?? Shame on LandRover.
This thread seems to have died? Does this mean that everyone suffering this problem has obtained closure? I took mine to an independent. When he plugged in his testbook before starting the engine a fault "variable air nozzle" registered on his testbook.
Having cleared this he then started the engine and could tell via the testbook that the problem was unconnected to the fuel system and likely to be a problem with the air system.
I drove while he sat in passenger seat with testbook on his lap. At 70 mph when loss of power problem manifested itself his testbook identified this was caused by "variable air nozzle".
The engineer's gut feeling is that an air (filter?) that is only accessible by taking off part of the manifold may be to blame. Apparently because it is awkward to access it doesn't get changed during servicing. When it becomes choked then it has major detrimental effect.
Can anyone confirm that there is something that needs serviced that needs part of manifold to be removed to get to it?
I feel that now someone has identified I definitely have a problem then resolution of it is only a matter of time.
Come next weekend the engineer will have dismantled enough of my landy and either cured the problem or know which bits are needed to cure it.
Keep you posted.
Regards
BABell
Having cleared this he then started the engine and could tell via the testbook that the problem was unconnected to the fuel system and likely to be a problem with the air system.
I drove while he sat in passenger seat with testbook on his lap. At 70 mph when loss of power problem manifested itself his testbook identified this was caused by "variable air nozzle".
The engineer's gut feeling is that an air (filter?) that is only accessible by taking off part of the manifold may be to blame. Apparently because it is awkward to access it doesn't get changed during servicing. When it becomes choked then it has major detrimental effect.
Can anyone confirm that there is something that needs serviced that needs part of manifold to be removed to get to it?
I feel that now someone has identified I definitely have a problem then resolution of it is only a matter of time.
Come next weekend the engineer will have dismantled enough of my landy and either cured the problem or know which bits are needed to cure it.
Keep you posted.
Regards
BABell
ming
SPACE TWOT
BABell. . .an air filter eh,you've got me on that one ,the only air filter i know of is at the back of the engine [main air filter] ,try and find out were it is, i still feel that most of the loss of power ,is 1 maf sensor 2 fuel related, filter,pumps, but then i have an open mind to more suggestions.cheers .
merlinghnd
New Member
Hello BaBell,
I started this thread and started an new one see "Freelander loss of power -new engine"
I think your man is right as I had a filter that is accessed via a cam shaft cover and is "inside" the engine and is not a service item. See the new thread.
My engine was "breathing" and is now so much better. However I have had a new turbo, air flow sensor and alot of grief with this.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Regrads
Merlinghnd
I started this thread and started an new one see "Freelander loss of power -new engine"
I think your man is right as I had a filter that is accessed via a cam shaft cover and is "inside" the engine and is not a service item. See the new thread.
My engine was "breathing" and is now so much better. However I have had a new turbo, air flow sensor and alot of grief with this.
Hope you get it sorted soon.
Regrads
Merlinghnd
ming
SPACE TWOT
Hi merlinhnd, , ,been trying to find this filter and the only part i can come up with ,is called the depression limiting valve [td4] this has a filter on it,and has something to do with pressure limiting, so [i think ive got this right] the valve will close slowly with engine speed to reduce the build up of pressure in the crankcase,so say if its blocked or not working all the time , then sensor, s for or after cat/converter ,could limit speed from ems . . . can you find out what the name of the part was, but then again i could be way of the mark. . .
Zippy
New Member
That is the 'Filter' in question Ming, if it is blocked it will cause the engine to limit its exhaust outputs to reduce crankcase pressure, How ? by limiting its speed.
Find it in the haynes manual did we ? Well done mate, see if you can get a part number for it and post it up, plus piccys if you can.
Zippy
Find it in the haynes manual did we ? Well done mate, see if you can get a part number for it and post it up, plus piccys if you can.
Zippy
ming
SPACE TWOT
Zippy . . . no mate found it in a land rover rave CD, however as i feel a lot of work done by others in this and the fact that this could be very useful information for others with this problem ,i have re started the thread with a picture ,please add your own useful comments. . .
Ming...As I hadn't a clue about what everyone was talking about downloaded a copy of Rave yesterday.
I now see where the depression limiter is located. To get to it means removing the air cleaner cover, air filter and intake ducting, disconnecting multiplugs and moving aside the injector harness.
It doesn't look to me (and I'm no expert) that any part of the manifold has to be removed to get access contrary to what I think the independent told me.
I probably should have paid more attention to what he said to me.
Anyway my landy goes to him on Friday so fingers crossed he sorts the problem.
The longer I run the car as it is the worse it is getting. This morning it was a struggle to get 60mph on the flat and 50mph uphill (fairly gentle gradient!!!) and I have to sit behind lorries for miles now as I just don't have any confidence that the car will respond if I attempt to overtake if the lorry is
doing 50mph.
Regards
BA Bell
I now see where the depression limiter is located. To get to it means removing the air cleaner cover, air filter and intake ducting, disconnecting multiplugs and moving aside the injector harness.
It doesn't look to me (and I'm no expert) that any part of the manifold has to be removed to get access contrary to what I think the independent told me.
I probably should have paid more attention to what he said to me.
Anyway my landy goes to him on Friday so fingers crossed he sorts the problem.
The longer I run the car as it is the worse it is getting. This morning it was a struggle to get 60mph on the flat and 50mph uphill (fairly gentle gradient!!!) and I have to sit behind lorries for miles now as I just don't have any confidence that the car will respond if I attempt to overtake if the lorry is
doing 50mph.
Regards
BA Bell
ming
SPACE TWOT
Babell . . . hi mate the rave is a complete workshop CD does all the models ,but think the Haynes manual is better, as for your problem i have started a new thread called re loss of power, as this one is full, I'm hoping and got me fingers crossed that your independent has pinned it for you,know that you have had a lot of grief with this problem,but at least you have given good feedback and might have have got the cure for this,think we should now go to the new thread,as i think this could help others ,cheers. . .
While cleaning the engine breather filter and reassembling the air intake I noticed a pipe loose. Not having removed this and not being able to see where it came from I left it loose and completed the job.
On road testing it the vehicle felt better!
However I noticed after a few days that while driving along the motorway I had got full power (sorry Officer but slowed down after 95 mph) but when pulling away from traffic lights the power was down.
Landrover parts identified the pipe having broke off the vacuum chamber (rear connection out of sight) Might have been me when dismantaling the induction pipes?
A new one was ordered at an extortionate price of £3.49 + vat
However when this was fitted the original 70+ problem continued. So over the last few weeks I have played a game of what shall I drive like today pipe off for motorway speeds or pipe on for around town.
Having suffered this for a while now I have found the following from Autodata CD3 in the data for a TD4:
Known Fixes and bulletins
Affected vehicles
· All models
Problem
· Loss of engine power
· Reduced engine performance at high speed
Cause
· Fault in one or more of the following component(s)
o Mass air flow (MAF) sensor
o High pressure fuel pump
o Turbocharger (TC) boost pressure control valve
Remedy
· Replace component(s) as necessary
Thinking about the way the vacuum controls the turbocharger I am in my case now looking at the Turbocharger (TC) boost pressure control valve as being at fault so will keep you posted
On road testing it the vehicle felt better!
However I noticed after a few days that while driving along the motorway I had got full power (sorry Officer but slowed down after 95 mph) but when pulling away from traffic lights the power was down.
Landrover parts identified the pipe having broke off the vacuum chamber (rear connection out of sight) Might have been me when dismantaling the induction pipes?
A new one was ordered at an extortionate price of £3.49 + vat
However when this was fitted the original 70+ problem continued. So over the last few weeks I have played a game of what shall I drive like today pipe off for motorway speeds or pipe on for around town.
Having suffered this for a while now I have found the following from Autodata CD3 in the data for a TD4:
Known Fixes and bulletins
Affected vehicles
· All models
Problem
· Loss of engine power
· Reduced engine performance at high speed
Cause
· Fault in one or more of the following component(s)
o Mass air flow (MAF) sensor
o High pressure fuel pump
o Turbocharger (TC) boost pressure control valve
Remedy
· Replace component(s) as necessary
Thinking about the way the vacuum controls the turbocharger I am in my case now looking at the Turbocharger (TC) boost pressure control valve as being at fault so will keep you posted
