:rolleyes: So biting the bullet and sticking m,y neck out here as I know what comments some of you will make. More to the story.

Running into the sixth week of no FL. Head taken apart, 2 of the Hydraulic lifters were knackered. All that sorted and head cleaned etc (£350). Garage have it all back together again and even had the car running yesterday perfectly. Just as I thought it was all going well, they tell me that it then stopped running and the diagnostic machine came up with the Lamda Sensor fault yet again (as previous - 2wks back!!!)

Now unable to get the thing running yet again. So back to sqaure one and god knows how much money and time to face. :(
 
TD4 inlet manifolds are plastic and can suffer cracks.
When cold the problem dosen't show, but once hot and
under hard acceleration the crack opens and a power loss
is experienced. A smoke test will not show this.
 
Worse now than I thought. Mechanic thinks it's the piston rings :( This would therefore mean the bottom end now needs to be looked at. Bottom end alright lololol seems it's a bottomless money pit at the moment.
 
Sue1962 said:
Worse now than I thought. Mechanic thinks it's the piston rings :( This would therefore mean the bottom end now needs to be looked at. .
Click to expand...

Nope, the compression test should show if there are any worn piston rings.

Pressure of a k-series cylinder when warm (non-skimmed head) is around 10bar, each successive crank over of the cylinder should show a gradual increase in pressure..... until 10bar is reached.

If the head has been skimmed then compression could be slightly higher, if the MLS gasket with 0.1mm shim is fitted, then slightly less pressure.

I dont think these guys know their way around the k-series, first they say its the top end of the drivetrain, now the bottom end,

take it to a Rover/MG garage, well they dont exist anymore, but the people in the know do.

Have they checked the CAT yet?
 
So am now into my seventh week without my Freelander :( not driven it since 3rd May :eek:

I'm sticking my neck out here now by giving the next instalment of the saga as I know that there will be lots of 'I told you so' comments from those who think the FL is a naff vehicle. Even getting these from my other half!!!! Hey, I have broad shoulders.

I've just about had it and am now almost afraid to ask the garage what they are going to do next :( Just been up there again today to see what the next move is.

They STILL do not know what's wrong with it. As previously stated in my posts, they can start the thing but still no power beneath the foot when depressed on the pedal......... but, when they reach 2000 revs it's all clear and running perfectly.

However, it also runs perfectly from scratch when they pour oil down the plug holes!!!! Shouldn't happen I know, but it does. This suggests that they are creating a seal round the piston rings enabling them to function properly, (I'm no mechanic so exuse me if I'm talking crapp!!!). I'm only passong on what they've said. So, the next stage is, well, I don't know to be honest. Waiting to hear later this afternoon.

BTW - compression test results are ok but not brilliant. :(

Anyone know of any good cliffs I can drop it over ?????
 
hey all

bin reading this thread with great interest, just come back from the lakes for a weeks break. Went with a mate who also has a FreeLander, took them both up and down hardknott pass and mine barely made it, also with all the ups and downs on the roads there was not a real lot of power on some of the inclines, comparing notes with him after his FL was powering away on hill in 4th and i was having to knock down to 2nd just to keep moving forward...... gonna book it into a independent garage next week and try and get an idea on what is what - on the flat its OK, not fast, just OK - i then drove his and realised i have had this problem for a while i just havn't really noticed the change, maybe its something that has gradually come on ........... anyway reading some of the stories here i am hoping i have some more luck. This is my first foray into the world of the green oval since i got rid of my old 'banged up but never gave up' series 3 back in the early 90's for a more sensible 'family car'!! - just hope i am not gonna regret it .......:(

was gonna have a look at it myself but after reading this i dont think my limited knowledge and haynes manual are up to the job!

rob (2001 GS 5dr TD4 80K)
 
rob minto said:
hey all

bin reading this thread with great interest, just come back from the lakes for a weeks break. Went with a mate who also has a FreeLander, took them both up and down hardknott pass and mine barely made it, also with all the ups and downs on the roads there was not a real lot of power on some of the inclines, comparing notes with him after his FL was powering away on hill in 4th and i was having to knock down to 2nd just to keep moving forward...... gonna book it into a independent garage next week and try and get an idea on what is what - on the flat its OK, not fast, just OK - i then drove his and realised i have had this problem for a while i just havn't really noticed the change, maybe its something that has gradually come on ........... anyway reading some of the stories here i am hoping i have some more luck. This is my first foray into the world of the green oval since i got rid of my old 'banged up but never gave up' series 3 back in the early 90's for a more sensible 'family car'!! - just hope i am not gonna regret it .......:(

was gonna have a look at it myself but after reading this i dont think my limited knowledge and haynes manual are up to the job!

rob
Click to expand...
I can give ye a number of a good mobile hair dresser :D :D :D
Shuldav kept the series III :rolleyes:
 
RSM72 said:
I can give ye a number of a good mobile hair dresser :D :D :D
Shuldav kept the series III :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

i am OK for a haircut thanks ;)

but ur right about the series III - nay worries - maybe if my lottery ticket comes in i can get a defender - until then .................:(
 
I have same problem with my Freelander 2003 2.0 TD4 Automatic,

I can driving max 2000 rmp ! about 50 mph !.

Please help me.
 
krzakx said:
I have same problem with my Freelander 2003 2.0 TD4 Automatic,

I can driving max 2000 rmp ! about 50 mph !.

Please help me.
Click to expand...

Hi

Not sure if I can point you in the right direction. It turned out to be the timing pulleys in my case. When the garage took the head off they must have knocked them and in the rush to get it all back together again didnt bother to check and adjust.

Hope that helps - but am sure there will be others on here better informed than me lololol after all am only a female :praise:

All the best
 
Td4 intercooler hose failure will give the 2000rpm not above 50 scene, is it smoking bad as well ? missing etc
 
willo said:
Why ?? I find it perfectly normal that two parts, supposed to be joined together, (at least meant to) can't fit ?? What else could an Hippo owner otherwise have to moan about ??:D

Seriously, I find it inexcusable that on a car like a LandRover such a thing can happen. It would be a piece of cake if either the receiving part screwed to the body was straight or else the filter housing was straight but apparently they are not. If both were straight all one needed to do was to position the vertical 'fin' (to avoid the lateral movement of the filterhousing and also to align the two hooks onto the holes in the body) into the slot, than position the two 'hooks' in front of the two foreseen holes and push everything gently together whereafter the filterhousing can be lowered until the hooks reach the bottom of the holes, the weight alone of the complete housing including the filled filter and the pump would keep everything on place, but on top of that there is also an extra screw to keep everything together and in place, so why that special gimmick situation they invented ??
When you introduce that fin in the first place it looks as if it oscilates on something in the middle as either the lower or the upper hook can be introduced into the foreseen hole, but in my case not both at the same time (as it should be), I had a rather hard time to put it upwards when I changed the filter thus there is some restraint down there which makes it so difficult (impossible) to mount it back again afterwards. I understand from MY03 on they installed the fuelfilter in the rear wheelarch ? Is the almost impossible situation in the front the reason for that ?? Shame on LandRover.:mad: :mad:
Click to expand...


Willo... wen yoov taken the filter/pump of as many times as i have,,
you will find it a peice off **** to replace!!

Take orf one end of the pipe that comes frum the pump to filter, (pull
out the filter end) that way you have more room to lift the lot up, un
put on the clips! then replace the pipe afterwards!

Its this small pipe that makes it a bummer tu fit ya filter/pump back on
its bracket! cos it hits the bottom of the ECU box!!

Tip: Some filter canisters are very difficult to remove from the plastic
cup/holder..(another sighn it hasent been changed fu ages!) well, wen
yer have removed it, befor puttin the new wun in, take a hack saw un
put a cut down the lenth of the plastic cup!!
Next time ya change ya filta, ill come out easy!!:D :D
 
Greenie said:
Willo... wen yoov taken the filter/pump of as many times as i have,,
you will find it a peice off **** to replace!!

Take orf one end of the pipe that comes frum the pump to filter, (pull
out the filter end) that way you have more room to lift the lot up, un
put on the clips! then replace the pipe afterwards!

Its this small pipe that makes it a bummer tu fit ya filter/pump back on
its bracket! cos it hits the bottom of the ECU box!!

Tip: Some filter canisters are very difficult to remove from the plastic
cup/holder..(another sighn it hasent been changed fu ages!) well, wen
yer have removed it, befor puttin the new wun in, take a hack saw un
put a cut down the lenth of the plastic cup!!
Next time ya change ya filta, ill come out easy!!:D :D
Click to expand...

Hi Greenie,

Thanks for the info but it's now some 4 years ago I changed that filter, (was a bit hasty as it's supposed to be changed after 5 but couldn't wait....:D ) but as far as I can remember I had no special problem of taking the old fuel filter out of the canister, it was mainly the plastic whole of the two canisters together which I had problems with in getting it back in place, if my memory is right I took off both of the pipes before I removed that thing and had these pipes only reconnected after I managed, as good as possible, to refit the filter holder (canister), also no problem this was touching the bottom of the ecu box I think ?
Anyway, next change will be in about 2 years, so .......:hippie:
 
Originally Posted by krzakx View Post
I have same problem with my Freelander 2003 2.0 TD4 Automatic,

I can driving max 2000 rmp ! about 50 mph !.

Please help me.
Click to expand...

One more think, when I drive about 50-60mph, yellow control light with engine going light on.... when I driving below 50 mph it's switch/light off
 
gary lockner said:
Gave up on Somerset 4X4 as they wouldn't return my calls and hadn't any idea where to go next, they said drop it off and they will keep it until sorted, but no courtesy car and when asked how long they wanted it he said how long is a piece of string !!!
Phoned Taunton L/R Monday and was booked in on Wednesday, they sounded confident so took it down for 10am, by 3pm had a phone call to say it was sorted.
They found the Turbo was over boosting which was caused be the vacuum pipe and a sticking valve to be the cause, they fitted the part (£40+vat) and tested it as OK, he did say it was all pointing to the MAF & air flow meter but as the A.F.M had been changed they went deeper they also noticed the engine was noisy when accelerating this again was down to the turbo over boosting.
All in it cost me £175 including the 15% discount they gave me as a premier customer (not sure why but 15% is 15% !) but I couldn't care less as I drove home on the motorway and it drove just like new, I was even confident enough to put my foot down and overtake in the outside lane.
I would recommend anyone to Taunton L/R the service was excellent and they restored my faith in garages, they dropped me into town whilst they repaired it and a free taxi ride back to collect it, well worth the money.

Hope this helps someone with the same problem as I USED to have.
Click to expand...
Gary, didn't notice that your post was Dec 05 (now July 09).

I too had a smoking freelander TD4 when accelerating at any speed, also intermittant loss of power at any speed.

Took your advice and travelled 60 miles to Taunton Landrover. Diagnosed as turbo hose split, both engine breather filters blocked.

When I picked up the car, they had managed to close my sunroof which had been stuck open for about 3 months, fitted a missing LR wheel badge and washed the car FOC. Car is running like new. Service was excellent, total cost £180 inc.

Like you, I cannot fault the service received.

Thanks to all constributors, especially Sherriff 13 Mar (hoses) and Powell 3190 22 Mar (Breather pipes), which gave me some idea of possible causes and what to expect.
 
Hello Everyone. This is most likely the longest active thread ever! Probably because it is the most likely problem to have with a freelander(?). Having read all the posts (really? yes really every single of your entries!) I have gathered the following;

The loss of power is happening on the whole range of cars. Diesel, petrol all engines seem to be affected. A lot of the solutions given in the thread may well have fixed the problems for the individuals but the loss of power could be the cause of many problems.

I had the same issue. Not necessarily cutting out at 70mph (although I am not pushing my 1.8 petrol…) but losing power when it needed a little bit more power then usual. Especially going up on hills and when I put my foot down to speed up. I gave it a full service, which it needed anyway, hoping it would resolve it. Although the car ran a lot smoother after it, it still loss power on those crucial moments. I was going to take the fuel system apart to clean and clear any blockages that may be in there. But I did not have the time to do this straight away and when passing the car stuff shelf in Home-base I noticed CarLube Petrol Treatment. (I think that there is a diesel variety too). I had already tried injector cleaner without much luck. As it needs to be inserted on a full petrol tank I decided to fill up with Tesco's Momentum99. Guess what? So far I have not had any problems (touch wood)! Not sure if it is the car lube or momentum that did it but before spending a fortune at garages on parts that are likely not required to be replaced this is a good avenue to go down and try first.

Marcel
 
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