What faults have you encountered on your FL1


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Can someone tell what these "3 amigos" are? Keep seeing people mentioning these and have no idea what they are. I looked in the boot for 3 Mexicans in sombreros but couldn't find any.
 
yesterday car would not start onboard dash battery light was illuminated engine not running.
jumpleaded from mates disco it started right away. it just about started this morning i stopped off at shop on way to work this morning and would not start again just ckicking sound from alternator. urgent advice please. :(
 
owned four years most probs for me would be age/wear tear so still love my td4 es prem.
alternator
battery
fuel pump
turbo solinoid
window regulators
new problem appearing vcu/center vibration:blabla::doh:
 
yesterday car would not start onboard dash battery light was illuminated engine not running.
jumpleaded from mates disco it started right away. it just about started this morning i stopped off at shop on way to work this morning and would not start again just ckicking sound from alternator. urgent advice please. :(

Sounds like either the battery isn't being charged whilst the engine is running, or you have a dodgy starter motor.
Either way, this isn't the forum to post a question in is it?

So far, had our 2004 TD4 for 3 weeks and no issues yet beyond fair wear and tear. 116000 miles on ours.
 
Fixed:
- Intercooler Hose
- Turbo Hose
- Engine Supports
- Both Front Stabilizers

Not fixed yet:
- Aircon leak
- Disc Clamp hanging (Right)
- Rear View Mirror fell off :)
- Lose power above 70mph on motorway intermittently
- Bad starting at petrol stations :confused:

Apart from that it eats tires for breakfast...
 
I had my 2004 TD4 for 2 years and never had a problem, gave it a service every 5000 miles.

In 2 years the biggest thing that was done was new prop as you can't replace the U/J as its covered in rubber.

I think a TD4 Feelander is like any Land Rover, you have to look after it and it will look after you.
 
Was a 99 FL TD.
1. Blew head gasket.
2. Replaced HG, blew the turbo.
3. Turbo replaced by local garage, blew the new turbo, LR refused to refund (can't really blame them tbh).
4. Sourced a new spindle on the net, replaced it myself, ran fine.
5. VCU bearings collapsed. Removed prop while waiting for new bearings.
6. The front final drive thingy the prop connects to (can't remember what it's called) gave up.
Scrapped the car at this point!
 
Lost power to the passenger heated seat and cigarette lighter as well as passenger rear central locking packed up
 
1998 XEDI owned 5 years 150000 miles.
VCU and IRD replaved ( blew hole in ird)
Cambelt tensioner failed .
Drop links numerous times (lots of speed bumps round here)
CV joints both sides.
Sunroof still needs fixing .
But still glad to get back in it after driving our 2 year old Seat Ibiza regularly ,feels so comfortable :)
 
Ere's me list, to date:

Before I had it:
kv6 seized up and replaced with new engine

Since I've had it:
Headlight level motor goes up/down constantly - replaced.
Volumetric sensor plus harness fitted.
Reprogram to uk territory at main dealer.
Air con clutch bearing failed due to oft roading - replaced.
Snapped a bolt for main timing belt metal cover - replaced.
Main timing belt front pulley failed - replaced.
Eggshaust camshaft cover fell orf - lost over 3L of oil whilst orf road - replaced.
Vcu bearings starting to fail - replaced.
Rear diff all 3 mounts failed - replaced.
Ird/drive shaft seal leaking due to oft roading - replaced.
Rear brake cylinder leaking on one side - replaced both rear cylinder and brake shoes.
Brake pedal switch changed 3 times - latest one works - one with the new conversion harness.
Sunroof jammed - oiled and freed up.
Cruise control failed - I damaged the T pipe near the battery, by splitting it - replaced.
Electrical switch on rear of ignition failed - replaced.
Rear door wouldn't open - took apart then put back and it cleared itself.
Cracked auto gearbox front solenoid cover - replaced.
Auto gearbox leaking and jerky. Slamming into gear when changing gear and wrecked the torque convertor. All because the main dealer din't tell me it was leaking auto oil - replaced auto gearbox.
Coolant reservoir cracked twice - replaced.
tyres cracked and buldged - damaged oft road - replaced.
Auto gearbox electrical barrel connectors coming apart and F4 flashing - hippo fix with hose clips and tie wraps - main dealer broke the barrel connectors or ignored then being broken after fitted the replacement gearbox -bastids.
Ird squeals after main dealer replaced the auto - bastids.
Alternator changed by main dealer to fix squealing - got half me money back - bastids were talking cr*p.
Power steering reservoir cap snapped - replaced.
Drop link incorrectly fitted one side - main dealer fitted wrong way when replacing auto gearbox - bastids.
Anti roll bar bush failed - replaced.
Prop to ird rubber boot failed - replaced.
Prop shaft universal joint bearing cup bent -replaced bearing.
Front wishbone replaced due to failed ball joint - knocking sound getting louder over the years until it could be detected.
Captive nut at front of sump guard loose -w in place.
Engine mixed oil with coolant - liquid version of bars leaks seals it. Found to be 2 head bolts loose on rear bank of v6. Caused by main dealer when replacing the auto gearbox - bastids.

But I still loves my Freelander I does. :)
Despite those none believers telling me it's not as good as I knows it is. :mad:
Working on it till 2am putting it back together in the cold. :eek:
Falling asleep under it whilst waiting to see where the auto oil was leaking from. :eek:
Un the fekkin tratter boys telling me me doors fall orf when wet and they dun't. :mad:
And the joy of driving it orf road. Seeing others stop in amazement at what a Freelander can do. :D
The happyness and warmth inside when we finnish another jerney, knowing all is well. :)
I loves my Freelander I does. He makes me happy. :D
 
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I'd change my stealer if I wuz U ! Crikey iz there no justice left innis werld !!
Yep. That was the last job they did for me. Funny thing was it was convenient to have them do the work. Would have kept using em anorl. They were looking forward to the cam belt changed which I asked about when finding out me engine/auto/ird was on the workshop floor when the auto was changed. Bastids quoted £602+vat which is belt change part of the 72k service, or usual price for that bit of work. They wanted to put it all back together, then take out everything again to replace the belts. Did the belts meself in the end. Took longer than they would take. But was fun. Would only take me 20 minutes for all 3 belts if were on the floor. Un that includes checking them. Did mine wiv the all in place, even the manifold stuff. Have been trying to fix it meself ever since. I still buy parts from them sometimes. Only to leak oil on their block paving.

Which reminds me, I for got to mention the tailgate door not opening. When getting it open wiv the use of safe mode, un taking the trim orf the door un fiddling wiv everything, it suddenly worked ok. Bin ok since until today the fault reappeared. But now I is armed wiv me hawkeye. :D

Edit: Just remembered...

Accelerator pedal switch failed - the other one that links to the hdc somehow
Rear window water pump leaked/failed - replaced
Battery leaked as the garage over filled it on a service - main stealer again - off road use at angles didn't help
 
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Not too much to report, there was that time part of the chassis disconnected from the body... Too many doughnuts in the mud me thinks!

The only other thing is I am fairly certain that the Hill Descent Control doesn't work. The light doesn't come on when you push the switch and nothing seems to happen when you go down steep hills except you pick up speed. Haven't bothered doing anything about it because we don't really take it off-road and I think it would probably be an expensive fix being computer related etc.
 
1.8 petrol - threw it away, head gasket twice in among other issues..... Saw the light and got a TD4 (2001 s)although i have had a few issues with it:
IRD fault - replaced, Slave & master cylinder on cluth - replaced along with new plates, Rear pax window regulator -replaced, Radiator - replaced, VCU - replaced.... Now i think the rear diff is on the way out. When reversing in particular, i get and clinking noise like two metal splines touching each other, mainly full lock. Cant be alot else as ive done ball joints, new tyres, brakes all good and just been serviced. POINT TO NOTE: for any other novices out there, make sure you have the crank case breather filter replaced, tunrs out mine had been missed few a few years by the previous owner and had swelled like a tampax on a really bad week lol.. coulda caused major probs, so i am informed. There, feel better now. Any ideas on the clinking scenario greatly received.
 
Not too much to report, there was that time part of the chassis disconnected from the body... Too many doughnuts in the mud me thinks!

The only other thing is I am fairly certain that the Hill Descent Control doesn't work. The light doesn't come on when you push the switch and nothing seems to happen when you go down steep hills except you pick up speed. Haven't bothered doing anything about it because we don't really take it off-road and I think it would probably be an expensive fix being computer related etc.

P.S - Falken tyres on these cars arent too clever - they are bloddy noisy, although before i lay down complete judgement, i'll see how they fair when the weather turns......... lesson learnt, save a few more quid and get something better.:D
 
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