So I've made a start stripping the new car.

IMG_20230330_205428095.jpg
IMG_20230330_205414815.jpg


The under tray and propshaft have also been removed. ;)
As expected since this car had been lying in a lockup for a couple of years and was bought as a non runner (even though it runs fine :confused:) it is a bit crusty underneath and a few things are not great but it really is not too bad. The previous owner had fitted an EGR bypass, silicone hoses and fuel tank cradle but the VCU seems to be pretty tight so I'll be fitting my old one.
Hopefully over the next few week or so I'll get it properly deiced and can start stripping the test mule. :)
I'll probably leave the fuel tank in place for now as I still haven't ruled out using the fuel burning heater to heat the cabin. :p The only problem with doing that is where to put the charger socket. :oops:
 
So I've made a start stripping the new car.

View attachment 285334 View attachment 285335

The under tray and propshaft have also been removed. ;)
As expected since this car had been lying in a lockup for a couple of years and was bought as a non runner (even though it runs fine :confused:) it is a bit crusty underneath and a few things are not great but it really is not too bad. The previous owner had fitted an EGR bypass, silicone hoses and fuel tank cradle but the VCU seems to be pretty tight so I'll be fitting my old one.
Hopefully over the next few week or so I'll get it properly deiced and can start stripping the test mule. :)
I'll probably leave the fuel tank in place for now as I still haven't ruled out using the fuel burning heater to heat the cabin. :p The only problem with doing that is where to put the charger socket. :oops:
Had the rear brakes seized up after standing?

The fuel burning heater won't use that much fuel. You could either use a smaller tanks somewhere (if you need the space) or create a different filler that needn't be that easy to use as it won't be used often.

The campervans I work on have bolt on diesel heaters, generally sit under the passenger seat or under the bed area. Pretty good little units. They are basically create a flow of warm air, suppose it could be ducted into the car's heater 'box' thingie where the matrix sits. Dunno how much they cost, but probably more practical than the Freelander's heater cos that heats 'coolant' that you'd still need to pump some way through the matrix.
 
I still haven't ruled out using the fuel burning heater to heat the cabin.

I think that's very sensible.

You could just use a small tank somewhere as GG suggested.
Fuel consumption is only about ½ a Litre per hour of use. You can even use kerosene for a cleaner burn, and at much lower cost than derv. ;)
 
Freelander's heater cos that heats 'coolant' that you'd still need to pump some way through the matrix

The FL1 FBH has a pump, which is powered by the FBH ECM.
Once the FBH fires up, it starts the pump to circulate the coolant. It's fully self contained, and Ali could easily activate the FBH by using the AC on switch on the heater diverter control, or fit another remote switch to fire it up.
If I was doing an EV conversion, I'd go with the FBH for cabin heating myself, simply because it's effective and not particularly polluting.
 
Had the rear brakes seized up after standing?
No the rear brakes are OK, it was the first thing I looked at but I believe the front left caliper is sticky also one of the VCU bearings has collapsed. Hopefully this is where the issue is.
The fuel burning heater won't use that much fuel. You could either use a smaller tanks somewhere (if you need the space) or create a different filler that needn't be that easy to use as it won't be used often.
Good point GG. The only reason I would keep the fuel tank is because all the fuel lines and pumps are already in place however it is still possible the original battery box I made for the fuel tank might be resurrected.
In this case I would need to find an alternative location for the FBH fuel tank. Deciding on this can wait as I can get the car officially on the road with fewer batteries then decide where to fit the remainder. It will still drive OK but with a bit less Oomph.
The campervans I work on have bolt on diesel heaters, generally sit under the passenger seat or under the bed area. Pretty good little units. They are basically create a flow of warm air, suppose it could be ducted into the car's heater 'box' thingie where the matrix sits. Dunno how much they cost, but probably more practical than the Freelander's heater cos that heats 'coolant' that you'd still need to pump some way through the matrix.
I can fit a 12V coolant pump fairly easily so that wouldn't be a problem. I have one from the Nissan Leaf.
The FL1 FBH has a pump, which is powered by the FBH ECM.
Once the FBH fires up, it starts the pump to circulate the coolant. It's fully self contained, and Ali could easily activate the FBH by using the AC on switch on the heater diverter control, or fit another remote switch to fire it up.
If I was doing an EV conversion, I'd go with the FBH for cabin heating myself, simply because it's effective and not particularly polluting.
I wonder what the HMRC would say about red diesel in an electric car? :p
 
Trying to push as much coolant out as possible with a little compressed air. ;)

IMG_20230402_112323807.jpg


I'm removing the rads and disconnecting the PS pump before dropping the engine. Still a few more things to disconnect.
 
Are you going to be selling the ICE stuff off Ali?
Yes mate, I'm hoping to sell the two engines as complete running with all ancillaries except PS pump on one and I might take the alternator off too. They should be worth a few hundred pounds.
 
I managed to do a bit more stripping today.

IMG_20230402_150320586.jpg
IMG_20230402_150351692.jpg


I decided to remove the PS pump first so I don't need to mess about with the hydraulic hoses or drain the fluid. It was a bit awkward and I had to unbolt the OS engine mount to get it out but not too bad. The rads are out too and the wiring harness is disconnected at the ECU box.
So not too much more to do before the noisy smelly parts can be removed. ;)
 
So not too much more to do before the noisy smelly parts can be removed. ;)
We had a campervan returned on Saturday. Was returned fine, but when we went to start it to move it out back it wouldn't.

Checking it out it was found that the renter had filled up prior to drop off, but put petrol in not diesel :eek:

After he'd drained it I helped the mechanic remove the fuel tank with it up on the hoist. As you can imagine, although it was drained there was residue in the tank and pipes and I really stank after getting it out and putting it back in again.

The mechanic got it going again though in a couple of hours, did a great job. It even sounded a lot better than a lot of the engines passing through the yard!

Checked, cleaned, washed and out for its next rental on Sunday.

Funny thing was that the customer was emailed to say what we found and they would be liable to pay for repairs. They emailed back denying this saying they had filled with diesel and they would find the receipt to prove it. 2nd email 1/2 hour later from them, "Ah yeh, sorry, unleaded" :oops:
 
We had a campervan returned on Saturday. Was returned fine, but when we went to start it to move it out back it wouldn't.

Checking it out it was found that the renter had filled up prior to drop off, but put petrol in not diesel :eek:

After he'd drained it I helped the mechanic remove the fuel tank with it up on the hoist. As you can imagine, although it was drained there was residue in the tank and pipes and I really stank after getting it out and putting it back in again.

The mechanic got it going again though in a couple of hours, did a great job. It even sounded a lot better than a lot of the engines passing through the yard!

Checked, cleaned, washed and out for its next rental on Sunday.

Funny thing was that the customer was emailed to say what we found and they would be liable to pay for repairs. They emailed back denying this saying they had filled with diesel and they would find the receipt to prove it. 2nd email 1/2 hour later from them, "Ah yeh, sorry, unleaded" :oops:
Make it leccy mate and they can never do that again. :p
 
Make it leccy mate and they can never do that again. :p

Indeed.
The wife did the same thing with her diesel VW Eos a couple of months back. I had to power the tank pump with a jump pack, so I could pump the petrol/diesel mix out. It went into the daughter's Fiat 500, so it didn't go to waste. :eek:

The VW turbo boost control actuator failed a week later, but I suspect that was purely coincidental. :confused:
 
I wish there was more incentive for small companies to make EV conversion kits for normal vehicles, and of course Freelanders.
I'd love my FL2 to be electric powered, but the electronics would make it very difficult to do. The mechanics on the other hand wouldn't be any more difficult than the FL1, only with more space in the vehicle.
The latest “FullyCharged” video pops along to see a form near Bristol that is building kits for most cars now, so if they don’t do the Freelander yet, they may soon. The price of the batteries is the main % of the cost presently though.
 
The latest “FullyCharged” video pops along to see a form near Bristol that is building kits for most cars now, so if they don’t do the Freelander yet, they may soon. The price of the batteries is the main % of the cost presently though.
Sadly I don't believe it will ever be mainstream to convert cars to electric as the economics don't add up. Even if the materials were cheap (which they never will be) the labour involved is not.
Only valuable classic cars make sense to convert and doing so is controversial. Possibly more recent cars with high sentimental value might get converted but they couldn't be called mainstream.
Really and truly only total nutters would consider doing such a crazy thing. :p
 
Sadly Ali is right.
For "normal" cars, an EV conversion will never make sense, made worse by regulations making it impossible to change the taxation classification from the original fuel to electric. This means that a vehicle which would be free to tax if it were originally registered as electric, but an ICE to electric conversion will remain several hundred £ to tax as it'll stay it's original taxation class.

Although it's technically greener to make an existing ICE into a BEV, especially so if salvaged BEV parts are used, it's far from practical when the converted vehicle might only have a few years of life left in it before the body falls apart.

The electronics of newer cars is also an issue, as most newer vehicles wouldn't be happy if a major component like the engine and its associated control modules are removed.

It's a nice dream, but the reality is very different, unless you're keen on doing it yourself as a project.
 
Sadly Ali is right.
For "normal" cars, an EV conversion will never make sense, made worse by regulations making it impossible to change the taxation classification from the original fuel to electric. This means that a vehicle which would be free to tax if it were originally registered as electric, but an ICE to electric conversion will remain several hundred £ to tax as it'll stay it's original taxation class.

Although it's technically greener to make an existing ICE into a BEV, especially so if salvaged BEV parts are used, it's far from practical when the converted vehicle might only have a few years of life left in it before the body falls apart.

The electronics of newer cars is also an issue, as most newer vehicles wouldn't be happy if a major component like the engine and its associated control modules are removed.

It's a nice dream, but the reality is very different, unless you're keen on doing it yourself as a project.
Yip, Nodge is right. Any car built after March 2001 will retain the tax status so will be taxed at the original price regardless if it is converted. That is why I've been on the hunt for a nice early Freelander first registered before 31st Mar 01 but so far have failed.
I wouldn't say the tax status cannot be changed, more like the DVLA have misinterpreted the rules to this end for their own reasons.
I probably should have mentioned it before stripping the one I have but if anyone has a really nice early car I would be interested in it as the one I have will cost me twice as much to tax each year than my 2012 diesel Merc. :mad:
 
Sadly Ali is right.
For "normal" cars, an EV conversion will never make sense, made worse by regulations making it impossible to change the taxation classification from the original fuel to electric. This means that a vehicle which would be free to tax if it were originally registered as electric, but an ICE to electric conversion will remain several hundred £ to tax as it'll stay it's original taxation class.

Although it's technically greener to make an existing ICE into a BEV, especially so if salvaged BEV parts are used, it's far from practical when the converted vehicle might only have a few years of life left in it before the body falls apart.

The electronics of newer cars is also an issue, as most newer vehicles wouldn't be happy if a major component like the engine and its associated control modules are removed.

It's a nice dream, but the reality is very different, unless you're keen on doing it yourself as a project.
Agree … and totally agree with those being mad!!! … I’m regards to the change in taxation that is true and spectacularly wrong, but also for post 2001 vehicles. Anything older can have the tax class changed - so if you can do it for older vehicles, why not newer ones.
 
Agree … and totally agree with those being mad!!! … I’m regards to the change in taxation that is true and spectacularly wrong, but also for post 2001 vehicles. Anything older can have the tax class changed - so if you can do it for older vehicles, why not newer ones.
There was a change to the regulations in 2001 so that the tax class of a vehicle could not be changed during the life of the car. (Unless of course you put something like a V8 into a mini that is)
A subsequent regulation came out a few years later saying electric cars were exempt from tax so there was a conflict in the regulations if a car was converted to leccy.

Guess which rule they decided to enforce and which one to ignore?
 
There was a change to the regulations in 2001 so that the tax class of a vehicle could not be changed during the life of the car. (Unless of course you put something like a V8 into a mini that is)
A subsequent regulation came out a few years later saying electric cars were exempt from tax so there was a conflict in the regulations if a car was converted to leccy.

Guess which rule they decided to enforce and which one to ignore?
Thanks, it is something I had heard about when I started looking into the EV conversion. Thankfully (for me) I established the post 2001 element so our '89 110 should be smoother. Trouble now is finding the insurance.
 

Similar threads