GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
Everything here costs twkce as much so probably about the same priceI know it's been a while but no, they came from an eGolf.
The Nissan cells are a bit easier to work with as they use buss bars to link the cells where I need to use cables with crimped ends.
The eGolf cells are more powerful than those in the original Leaf but similar to a 40kW Leaf.
£85 x 96 = £8160 so not cheap. I paid around half that for mine and they were brand new at the time.
There might not be any electric golfs on the road here. Its acaes as well as what's available. Shipping of ev batteries may be problematic.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I found a local breaker yard that specialises in EV's. My battery pack came out of an eGolf with 200 miles on the clock.Everything here costs twkce as much so probably about the same price
There might not be any electric golfs on the road here. Its acaes as well as what's available. Shipping of ev batteries may be problematic.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
The rear door on my "good" car was kinda rusty so as it is in the garage for a while I pulled it off last night. I intend to swap it with the one on the test mule but for now it's handy having it out of the way.
And now I've decided to use the fuel tank battery box after all I pulled out the fuel tank.
I have a leaky oil seal in the rear diff so will need to sort that.
Should I replace the seal or swap the diff with the one in my other test mule? The VCU was very tight in this car so the diff may not be great.
Either way I'll have to pull the drive shaft out so would appreciate advise as I haven't done it before.
And now I've decided to use the fuel tank battery box after all I pulled out the fuel tank.
I have a leaky oil seal in the rear diff so will need to sort that.
Should I replace the seal or swap the diff with the one in my other test mule? The VCU was very tight in this car so the diff may not be great.
Either way I'll have to pull the drive shaft out so would appreciate advise as I haven't done it before.
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andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Taking care not to kink the flinger on the driveshaft, either pry bar against one of the bolt heads and a sharp jolt action, or (my preferred) block of hard wood against the diff side of the inner joint and a sharp smack. Held in by circlip on end of shaft.
I found a local breaker yard that specialises in EV's. My battery pack came out of an eGolf with 200 miles on the clock.
What happened to it, that fecked it up ?
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Looks like the oil seal on the shaft outlet. Easy to prise out. About £5 each.
Check for play at the pinion and smooth running, check the oil for metal bits and use the best one.
Check for play at the pinion and smooth running, check the oil for metal bits and use the best one.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
It looked like it fell off the transporter onto it's roof. I looked at the front brake disks and they were brand new.
That’s expensive shipping error
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Will do.
Thanks mate, I'll do that.
What do you use to reseal the diff? I don't have an oil sucker.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
Just take plug out, turn it over and let gravity do its magic !
Rinse with parrafin after if you want then let it dry.
Rinse with parrafin after if you want then let it dry.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I was thinking if the oil was clean and there was little play I wouldn't have to take it out. I'll maybe invest in a siphon.
andyfreelandy
Well-Known Member
It will come out through the driveshaft holes a bit. Drain, check and replace with a good old fashioned funnel !!
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
I removed the diff from my parts car without touching the suspension - I think it was your thread about installing your lift kit and the trouble you had removing the bar/bolt on the lower suspension that made me not even look at touching the suspension.
I had removed the prop, so removed the exhaust back box and came at it from behind. I removed the 3 diff supports and then managed to move the diff far enough to 1 side (forget which) to enable the other side drive shaft to pop out, then moved it back the other war to remove the remaining 1.
Mind you, thinking about it, if the rear is like the back, I may have removed the bolts holding the hub to the strut and angled them out to give more room.
Not much help am I
But I do remember that it could be done without having to dismantle that lower part of the suspension.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Sounds like a plan.
That is what I was concerned about as mine is VERY crusty.I removed the diff from my parts car without touching the suspension - I think it was your thread about installing your lift kit and the trouble you had removing the bar/bolt on the lower suspension that made me not even look at touching the suspension.
I had removed the prop, so removed the exhaust back box and came at it from behind. I removed the 3 diff supports and then managed to move the diff far enough to 1 side (forget which) to enable the other side drive shaft to pop out, then moved it back the other war to remove the remaining 1.
Mind you, thinking about it, if the rear is like the back, I may have removed the bolts holding the hub to the strut and angled them out to give more room.
Not much help am I
But I do remember that it could be done without having to dismantle that lower part of the suspension.
On a different note it looks like I have some brake pipes to make up.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
I was thinking if the oil was clean and there was little play I wouldn't have to take it out. I'll maybe invest in a siphon.
I have a large plunger type oil extractor, and a 12V electric one, I use the electric one all the time. They cost about £15, so well worth the money.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
When looking at your previous pic of the removed fuel tank, 'crusty' is a word that sprang to me toSounds like a plan.
That is what I was concerned about as mine is VERY crusty.
On a different note it looks like I have some brake pipes to make up.
View attachment 286125
If you have to though, I'm pretty sure you can get the diff out without having to touch to much of the crusty stuff.
Over here though, changes like repowering a car need to go through 'compliance'. This is like a very very strict MOT and I'm sure the examiner on seeing your crusty stuff would put his tools away, go on smoko, then write out a failure report.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
Rust is the norm here. So long as their screwdrivers don't go through the metal it should be OK.When looking at your previous pic of the removed fuel tank, 'crusty' is a word that sprang to me to
If you have to though, I'm pretty sure you can get the diff out without having to touch to much of the crusty stuff.
Over here though, changes like repowering a car need to go through 'compliance'. This is like a very very strict MOT and I'm sure the examiner on seeing your crusty stuff would put his tools away, go on smoko, then write out a failure report.
This car has been sitting unused for several years in a damp barn so the flaky rust wasn't being shaken and blown off which makes it look worse than it is.
Having said that I think the other car is less rusty and I suspect this one only has a year or two life left in it.
Maybe enough time for me to build it's replacement.
Nodge68
Well-Known Member
Clean it off and paint with Bonda, which will keep the tin worm at bay for a good while.
Alibro
Well-Known Member
I need to buy some more so that will have to wait I'm afraid.Clean it off and paint with Bonda, which will keep the tin worm at bay for a good while.