Also gave the TPS a good clean, no luck.

Perhaps I need to take the injectors out and inspect the spray pattern?

IMG_2313.JPG
IMG_2314.JPG
 
octet said:
View attachment 115284 Gave the rotor arm a good clean, brushed with a fine wire brush and cleaned all the gunk.

Looks like in the attached photo.

Inspected the sense pipe that goes into ECU, can't see any cracks on it.

Still no luck, won't start :(
Click to expand...

Measure the resistance of the rotor arm. The internal resistor is known to fail.
 
octet said:
Here's the video, cranking, not starting. I can hear the fuel pump priming. Could be fuel filter? I'm going to try changing the spark plugs just in case, but I doubt. Throttle position sensor maybe? Looks ok in close inspection.

Click to expand...

There doesn't seem to be a spark. Have you popped out a spark plug and earthed it against the engine and cranked it over? There should be a very bright, strong spark across the electrodes.

How did the car stop running? Was it showing poor acceleration and a misfire?

With these MEMS1.9 engine, I would always replace the distributor can and rotor arm with good OEM parts (Land Rover or MG Rover). Aftermarket items simply aren't worth the risk: many are truly appalling quality and will fail again within a few hundred miles. Same goes for HT leads...
 
rob_bell said:
There doesn't seem to be a spark. Have you popped out a spark plug and earthed it against the engine and cranked it over? There should be a very bright, strong spark across the electrodes.

How did the car stop running? Was it showing poor acceleration and a misfire?
Click to expand...

There is spark, but not clear bright, just a tiny one :) I've purchased another rotor arm, arriving tomorrow morning at my local ECP, will try with that as well. The sparks are brand new, the only bit left in ignition will be the distributor and leads, although they look ok, they're only 2 months old...
 
Check the central carbon bush/terminal on the distributer cap. Even if they're only two months old, these wear at a horrific rate on cheap pattern distributor caps. As mentioned before, these are parts worth paying a little extra for to get OEM quality and reliability. The original parts are good for 8+ years and 80k miles. The cheap stuff can be gone within 8 weeks and 800 miles. :(

Guess how I have found that out. o_O
 
I've replaced the rotor arm with a brand new one, still no luck.

2017-01-17_11-35-58.jpeg


2017-01-17_11-36-25.jpeg


This is a video with the distributor, everything looks absolutely fine to me:

 
I know you said you've changed the coolant temp sensor - but did you change the right one? There are 2 sensors 1 for the temp gauge on the dash and another that the ECU uses for measuring the fueling needed.

With a faulty ECT sensor I would still expect it to 'cough' occasionally, but not nessesarily - especially in the middle of winter.
 
I agree - the distributor cap looks fine doesn't it? The central carbon bush doesn't appear to have any major wear.

With a weak spark, there are only two remaining possibilities assuming that the replacement rotor arm is good: the coil or the HT leads.
 
Sudden engine stops are normally caused by ignition problems, common to all cylinders. This would discount, plugs, leads and cap. The coil, coil lead or rotor arm are the most likely cause. If it's not the arm, then the other 2 may be suspect.
I'd still not discount the fuel pressure. Low fuel pressure will still flood the cylinders with fuel. But as it's not atomised by the injector, it won't burn. It just sploshes about and damps out the plugs.
 
Where can I find the coil on these 1.8L K engines?

Also, thinking to change the fuel filter, where is it located?
 
The coil on an early K-series is located under the inlet manifold, in the centre of the block. Follow the central HT lead on the distributor cap back to source and you'll find it :)
 
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