freelander03

freelander03

Member
Freelander 1, pre facelift, one of the last ones (2003)

Slow to start in the morning without holding down the accelerator. So far I've changed the fuel filter, glow plugs and had a mechanic clean out the air intake and given her a new filter.

Won't start without pumping and holding down the accelerator while turning engine on.

Next plan is to change the camshaft sensor and see if that fixes the problem. But posting here while I wait for parts to see if anyone has any ideas in the meantime, or if the senor fixes it then it might help someone else out.
 
Looks from your other posts to be a TD4? You shouldn’t need to touch the accelerator to start it.
Could well be the camshaft sensor, they can cause starting issues, especially when the engine is warm.
Could be slow fuel delivery on the LP side?

Have you checked for codes.
 
Good points, no codes that the tech showed me, I don't have a scanner myself. The mechanic showed me holding down the accelerator starts it, otherwise it just cranks endlessly. Its a strange one for sure.

What do you mean by fuel delivery on the LP side?
 
Change the High pressure fuel pump regulator O-rings and i bet it starts ok then, another test is leak back on the injectors, but that does not really stop it from starting, and Freddie's correct you should not have to use the accelerator to start the car, what fuel pump does it have in the rear wheel arch pierburg or some after market pump.


 
Last edited:
I know I shouldn't have to hold the pedal down, needs must as this is my only car that I'm using. Whatever gets it going haha.

I'll change the camshaft sensor first, as it's the easiest, then fuel pump then High pressure O rings. I'll get some bits ordered and report back, cheers guys!
 
freelander03 said:
Good points, no codes that the tech showed me, I don't have a scanner myself. The mechanic showed me holding down the accelerator starts it, otherwise it just cranks endlessly. Its a strange one for sure.

What do you mean by fuel delivery on the LP side?
Click to expand...
TD4 has 2 fuel pumps, a low pressure one (LP) and a high pressure one (HPFP).
The LP delivers the fuel to the HPFP. The HPFP then does what it says on the tin, and delivers the fuel via the rail to the injectors at extremely high pressure.

The LP pumps behind the r/o/s wheel arch are known for going bad as a hobby. (There is a fuel filter there too). If they do not deliver fuel at a good rate, the HPFP cannot get the fuel pressure high enough. Not sure if yours has the LP pump behind the wheel arch?

A good diag reader is ideal, then read the live data and you can very quickly tell if the pumps are running in spec.

As @Arctic2 says, another known issue is the O ring on the HP regulator deteriorates, allowing fuel to drain from the rail when sat, dropping the pressure in the rail.
 
I'm not even sure that what ever you do with the accelerator pedal has any effect on starting.

I was under the impression that the ECU will use a predetermine amount of fuel before the engine fires in to life and will ignore the accelerator.
 
I've got a 52 plate TD4 ES which has always struggled when starting cold. Usually turn it over a few times, pause, turn it over a few times, pause, then it starts.

I've replaced glow plugs, put diesel cleaner in the fuel tank, replaced the fuel filters. No joy. Randomly it will fire up first time but never sure why. It's always fine when starting warm.

I personally think it's an injector problem now. And for the age and value of the vehicle I don't think it's worth the cost of getting them looked at or fixed, so have left it there. Holding the pedal down doesn't make any difference for me.

Not much help but interested to know if you resolve it.
 
Hi all,

Apologies for the lack of updates, turns out the high pressure fuel pump is done for. Going to do that and then do the timing at the same time.
 
Just replace the chains etc, if I'm replacing the high pressure pump I might as well do it as its due anyways. Not sure if anything's wrong but I prefer to replace due to the age/condition of the car.
 
freelander03 said:
Just replace the chains etc, if I'm replacing the high pressure pump I might as well do it as its due anyways. Not sure if anything's wrong but I prefer to replace due to the age/condition of the car.
Click to expand...
A td4 timing chain should not need replacing… it’s a chain!
 
And yet I spend many hours each month replacing timing chains across various marques.
They are like any other mechanical component subject to load - they wear, especially when cheap engine oil is used or oil change intervals are extended.
Think of it more as a wear item with no specified replacement interval.
 
Just an update, I’m aware it’s been quite a while. Life gets in the way of projects sometimes.

I’ve managed to strip down the engine and I have 4 replacement injectors on the way today. Will update and see if this fixes the issue!
 
Injectors are now out, 2+3 are absolutely clogged with carbon, going to order a cleaning kit and give it a good clean before putting the new ones in, it's looking like this may have been the issue.

2 of the injectors also were almost rounded off at the top bolt, someone must have been in here at some point before!
 
freelander03 said:
Injectors are now out, 2+3 are absolutely clogged with carbon, going to order a cleaning kit and give it a good clean before putting the new ones in, it's looking like this may have been the issue.

2 of the injectors also were almost rounded off at the top bolt, someone must have been in here at some point before!
Click to expand...
This is the cleaning kit i have for the injector ports.

Also a seat cutting tool kit.
 
freelander03 said:
I'd already ordered the top set before you sent this :D

Is the seat cutting required or just advisory? I might see how they look after a bloody good cleaning!
Click to expand...
Just another tool i liked to have but not necessary unless the port is damaged at the bottom.

Your looking to get it clean like in the photo.
m8zzjwrl.jpg
1
 
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