O

octet

Member
Hi guys,

We have an old Freelander that wont start anymore. Breakdown guy said MAP sensor and coolant temp sensor are faulty. Replaced the coolant sensor, there is no MAP sensor on this engine. The head gasket has been replaced few years back, probably 3 years now, full engine rebuilt. Checked the spark plugs, there is spark on all 4, they've been replaced with the leads and ignition coils about 2 months ago. Fuel pump primes when trying to start, but the engine won't crank. I've got a new fuel filter, but haven't changed it yet.
What else could be the problem?

Many thanks!
 

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Replaced the battery, sorry, forgot to mention.

Thinking I should replace the sparks again, there was a bit of oil on them, also found a bit of oil in the throttle body.

Doing some work on my GT-R now, will get a video with the Freelander in a minute, trying to start it.
 
Here's the video, cranking, not starting. I can hear the fuel pump priming. Could be fuel filter? I'm going to try changing the spark plugs just in case, but I doubt. Throttle position sensor maybe? Looks ok in close inspection.

 
Have you checked there is fuel at the rail? What pressure is the fuel at?
The rotor arm is known to fail on those engines. Are plug leads in the correct sequence?
The MAP is in the ECU but can draw in fuel and get damaged but it's not common.
 
There's no fuel gauge, how do I check the fuel pressure and what should it be at?

Where is the fuel filter located?

Leads are in the correct sequence, the car worked fine for 2 months since I've changed them.

Rotor arm? Where is it located, can I inspect it with engine in situ?
 
Could you smell petrol from the plug holes when you took them out?

Try taking them out right after cranking and seeing if the plugs are wet at all or if you can smell fresh petrol.
 
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Yes, spark / spark holes were smelling like fuel. I doubt it's the injectors.

I shall get the throttle position sensor and the rotor arm on Monday, see of that makes a change.

Any other suggestions?
 
Dont think a dodgy sensor would stop it from starting. Plus, 37 quid for a tps sensor is a right rip off. Ive never heard of them going that often.

Its a good idea to try the rotor arm, but inspect your current one first. If its been sat for a while sometimes a bit of sandpaper on the contacts can do the trick.

When was the last time is was running and has anything changed since?
 
Will inspect the rotor arm in the morning, can you pinpoint the exact location please?

The car has been driven on a daily basis, one day last week just stalled on the road and didn't want to start anymore, AA guy brought it home.
 
If it's putting in fuel, it won't be the crank sensor and very unlikely to be the TPS. Have you checked the sense pipe between the inlet manifold and ECU? Any splits will cause the ECU to inject more fuel that needed.
 
That red thing (must have been painted by prev owner, never seen a red one before!) in your video, thats the dizzy cap. Pull the leads off taking a note of which order they go in and the the cap should come off after unscrewing. The rotor arm is inside.

Strange for it to stall while driving. Have you check timing belt and timing? Take belt cover off and have a look around.
 
It's orange, brand new from EuroCarParts, hasn't been painted :)

OK, will inspect the rotor arm in the morning, also the timing belt and the sense pipe as suggested, thank you guys!
 
Timing belt sounds ok. It's got good and even compression. It's either got a bad spark (rotor arm internal resistor) or its over fueling (split MAP sense pipe)
 
IMG_2311.JPG
Gave the rotor arm a good clean, brushed with a fine wire brush and cleaned all the gunk.

Looks like in the attached photo.

Inspected the sense pipe that goes into ECU, can't see any cracks on it.

Still no luck, won't start :(
 
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