That's the stub in the head that top rad hose fits to, I cant see it in microcat or on the rimmers site,
may be a case of finding pipe the right outside diameter and Loctite and push it in, Wammers would know best on that one I think.
I have a spare head and the stub looks like that i was looking at getting a mate to machine one up form if required.
Can you measure the OD and post it up as I cant get to my spare atm and I will have a look to see what I can find this end.
With good antifreeze they should not corrode like that although they are known to work loose.View attachment 165851 View attachment 165851
Hi Brian, I thought the same thing. I'm going to look for aluminium if I can but it only needs to get me 750 miles and then I can get it sorted properly. If you do get your mate fab one up I'm in! I need one now, and I bet if the diesel owner's look I'm not the only one
With good antifreeze they should not corrode like that although they are known to work loose.
I have a spare one in the head of my scrapper, but I can't remove it.
That pipe stub is just another example of crap German engineering IMO. The stub should either have been cast with the head, or the head faced off and a stub with a flange bolted on.Hi guys,
I was put onto Turner Engineering Range Rover BMW M51, 664613 Water Tube Cylinder Head, (Code: 4613), £9.99Exc. VAT, (£11.99 Inc. VAT).
I'll try to temp fix mine with putty as I'm running short of days before my return trip to UK.
I have only put pink coolant in it (OAT I believe). I have flushed the cooling system out 3 times since I got the engine including 2 with engine coolant flush and still this crap is coming out. Funny thing was it wasn't in the bucket of waste coolant that I always sieve afterwards.
The ironic thing is that the V8 engines (not sure which model) has a pipe almost identical to this but it screws in and isn't interference fit.
I will attempt to patch the pipe tonight. Thanks for the advice guru's
Pipe is an interference fit, put the new stub in the freezer for 24 hours and warm up the engine before fitting. No harm in lubricating it with a little Loctite.Fitted new fusebox and now the starter starts and EAS operational again.
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!
Fitted new fusebox and now the starter starts and EAS operational again.
Made myself a field expedient replacement pipe/tube for the rotted out coolant header pipe. 2 bits of vacuum cleaner pipe jammed one inside the other - TOP TIP a Lidl parkside ash vacuum cleaner tube is the exact size in o/d - but too thin on it's own. Cut the same length of Henry hoover pipe (stainless steel), wrap in self amalg tape and slowly push them together. You need to chamfer the ally tube or it won't go in. Get a piece of wood for the end and then hit with lump hammer until it seats. Wait for loctite to dry, top up coolant, take for test drive. Still no leaks 3 hours later
Rommel is on the return to Blighty in 2 days bringing the trailer back
New Turner pipe is waiting at home to be fitted. Does anyone know if some adhesive of form of loctite is used to hold these tubes in place? If so then I'll do the job properly - assuming I can get this temporary pipe out that is!