Only problem is my mate has a VW Passat and I wouldn't like to attempt being towed by it. I'll wait. To be honest I'm a bit p@ssed off as the Royal Mail tracking number whereabouts hasn't been updated, apparently it's not left the post office it was handed into yet. Which is probably b*ll*cks, I've asked the sender to chase it for me - that historically has made parcels "appear" rather quickly not long after the "trace and advise".
Enjoying the walking now but shopping with a day sack is a drag hahahaha. At least we are cracking on with internal renovations - plasterboarding (platre de plaque or plaque de platre - can't remember) the ceiling tomorrow now, nothing else to do :D:D:D
 
Mukiwa said:
Only problem is my mate has a VW Passat and I wouldn't like to attempt being towed by it. I'll wait. To be honest I'm a bit p@ssed off as the Royal Mail tracking number whereabouts hasn't been updated, apparently it's not left the post office it was handed into yet. Which is probably b*ll*cks, I've asked the sender to chase it for me - that historically has made parcels "appear" rather quickly not long after the "trace and advise".:D:D:D
Click to expand...
In my experience with Royal Mail Tracked, there is no further info. given after initial one saying it has been 'advised/picked up, until it says it is now going to be delivered.
 
Mukiwa said:
Only problem is my mate has a VW Passat and I wouldn't like to attempt being towed by it. I'll wait. To be honest I'm a bit p@ssed off as the Royal Mail tracking number whereabouts hasn't been updated, apparently it's not left the post office it was handed into yet. Which is probably b*ll*cks, I've asked the sender to chase it for me - that historically has made parcels "appear" rather quickly not long after the "trace and advise".
Enjoying the walking now but shopping with a day sack is a drag hahahaha. At least we are cracking on with internal renovations - plasterboarding (platre de plaque or plaque de platre - can't remember) the ceiling tomorrow now, nothing else to do :D:D:D
Click to expand...
It's Christmas, in my experience it could be next year before anything arrives:eek:
Plaque de Platre is generally referred to as Placo, done a lot of that on my renovations. If you are doing stud walls, I recommend you use metal studs rather than wood because of the spreading Termite risk, it;s also easier.:D
 
Datatek said:
It's Christmas, in my experience it could be next year before anything arrives:eek:
Plaque de Platre is generally referred to as Placo, done a lot of that on my renovations. If you are doing stud walls, I recommend you use metal studs rather than wood because of the spreading Termite risk, it;s also easier.:D
Click to expand...
Thanks Keith, good info. Got 3/4's of one ceiling done, much fun with old oak beams everywhere that are all wibbly wobbly
PS: that's 25 m2 of one room with quite a few to go
 
Datatek said:
It's Christmas, in my experience it could be next year before anything arrives:eek:
Plaque de Platre is generally referred to as Placo, done a lot of that on my renovations. If you are doing stud walls, I recommend you use metal studs rather than wood because of the spreading Termite risk, it;s also easier.:D
Click to expand...
Cheaper too. And easier to run services.
 
Mukiwa said:
Thanks Keith, good info. Got 3/4's of one ceiling done, much fun with old oak beams everywhere that are all wibbly wobbly
PS: that's 25 m2 of one room with quite a few to go
Click to expand...
Done a lot more than that, the trouble with my place is that there are no 90 degree corners anywhere.
 
Ok - box repaired as per Range Rover world repair how to , buzzed out and no cold solder joints. 30w iron will not melt the LR solder (or whomsoever made the fuse box pcb). I had to go and purchase a 60w iron.
Cut every link desoldered and removed every bridge. Took a guess on the diameter of the holes and voila! Solid core from satellite tv coax from Brico is the same diameter so that's now in. Will reinstall tomorrow and hope for the best - otherwised I'm waiting for Royal no Mail and French Poste to synchronise before I can get home.
 
Mukiwa said:
Ok - box repaired as per Range Rover world repair how to , buzzed out and no cold solder joints. 30w iron will not melt the LR solder (or whomsoever made the fuse box pcb). I had to go and purchase a 60w iron.
Cut every link desoldered and removed every bridge. Took a guess on the diameter of the holes and voila! Solid core from satellite tv coax from Brico is the same diameter so that's now in. Will reinstall tomorrow and hope for the best - otherwised I'm waiting for Royal no Mail and French Poste to synchronise before I can get home.
Click to expand...
Sounds like a valid repair strategy to me. Best of luck with it. I hope it does the trick.
 
All hooked up, click from the starter relay, but I didn't hear anything from the starter solenoid. I also think that due to the cold spell and being sat for quite a few days the battery is now showing 11.5v so it's on charge.
Ah the challenges of a P38 :rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
Battery charged and refitted. Click. But I can start and run the car by jumping the solenoid on the starter - so we can get home. New fusebox is in French Poste somewhere.
EAS compressor isn't activating so maybe it's relays and my fuse box repair may not be 100%. Tank has been filled up at the local garage (130psi airline there) and car put to motorway height.
I'll be checking relays later and see if there is a 12v feed to the signal/control cable to the starter.
PS: 13.8 - 14.2 volts from the alternator - so that's ok
 
Mukiwa said:
Battery charged and refitted. Click. But I can start and run the car by jumping the solenoid on the starter - so we can get home. New fusebox is in French Poste somewhere.
EAS compressor isn't activating so maybe it's relays and my fuse box repair may not be 100%. Tank has been filled up at the local garage (130psi airline there) and car put to motorway height.
I'll be checking relays later and see if there is a 12v feed to the signal/control cable to the starter.
PS: 13.8 - 14.2 volts from the alternator - so that's ok
Click to expand...

Feed to compressor comes from master fuse 2, 30 amps then EAS ECU should pull relay 20 with low air to run compressor. Relay 20 is immediately to the left of master fuses. Just because relays click it does not mean they are switching power.
 
Last edited:
I'll check that later Wammers, thanks. Maxi fuse is ok. I have an emergency jumper cable made up and want to know which holes (pins) to jumper to see if the compressor will run. I can't make it run using Nano, but until this fuse box problem it has been spot in since overhauled and repaired.
 
Mukiwa said:
I'll check that later Wammers, thanks. Maxi fuse is ok. I have an emergency jumper cable made up and want to know which holes (pins) to jumper to see if the compressor will run. I can't make it run using Nano, but until this fuse box problem it has been spot in since overhauled and repaired.
Click to expand...
Sounds like you have missed something with your repair.
 
Mukiwa said:
I'll check that later Wammers, thanks. Maxi fuse is ok. I have an emergency jumper cable made up and want to know which holes (pins) to jumper to see if the compressor will run. I can't make it run using Nano, but until this fuse box problem it has been spot in since overhauled and repaired.
Click to expand...

Pins 3 and 5 in relay 20 socket.
 
I reckon I must have too. Probably a solder bridge not flowed properly. Hard to do with a fat tipped iron (my good one is in the UK unfortunately). I'll re do it once I'm home :D

Thanks Wammers but the blades are marked 30, 85, 86 & 87 on my R6MD relay
 
Just tried to jump the starter and click and the HEVAC lights, dash and gear change LED's all dim on turning the key. Jumping directly from the positive on the battery won't turn the starter. I'm guessing it's seized.
 
Mukiwa said:
I reckon I must have too. Probably a solder bridge not flowed properly. Hard to do with a fat tipped iron (my good one is in the UK unfortunately). I'll re do it once I'm home :D

Thanks Wammers but the blades are marked 30, 85, 86 & 87 on my R6MD relay
Click to expand...

87 to 30
 
Starter motor serviced and all carbon crap now cleaned out. Spins like a dream and starts the car. Still waiting on the new fusebox.
Found where my coolant leak was though.
What is the pipe called that sticks out of the engine block that goes to/from the top right hand radiator pipe (as you look at the vehicle)? It fell out of the block full of corrosion and has 3 holes in it. Now I have to try and repair this bloody problem. This was hidden under a jubilee clip and the hose had been shoved right up against the block. I pulled the hose once the hose clip was loosened and the whole lot came out of the block o_Oo_O

This car will last another 160,000 miles by the time I've fixed these problems. :cool:

Here's a pic - if this works >>
36ZH9UwFYfNcRt4w8
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

DollyBird
Engine disabled, keys not working, tried the guide “Re-synching the Range Rover P38 diesel engine with the Solved - BECM using a Nanocom” no luck
Replies
9
Views
1K
DollyBird
DollyBird
marjon
L322 Key fob case replacement.
Replies
5
Views
537
marjon
marjon
kermit_rr
L322 keyfob signal not received
3 4 5
Replies
93
Views
6K
kermit_rr
kermit_rr
T
Central locking not working on all doors except drivers
Replies
6
Views
813
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
C
Dash removal - now it won’t start…
Replies
5
Views
546
shaynecm
S