I purchased one from eBay, all I got was a buzz!

No help, just thought I'd mention it.


Sent from my iPhone using bobs dangly wotsits
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Tried Nexxia piece of junk and got a buzz too on my Clarion HK system.
They advised grounding the amps and rca filters but didn't work. So i send it back and got a refund.

Should i had that my Australian friend, Ron tried it to on his Clarion HK system and it didn't work

Then i assembled Ray Ambler attenuator that you can see on Rangerovers.net and it WORKS!! No buzz at all, plenty of power even without the subwoofer wired (i need to make a special cable to drive it from RCA).

No need to rewire anything, it's almost plug and play. The main difficulty is sourcing a 10 way ISO or cutting a 8 way ISO and use 2 additionnal pins.

Sound is clear and at least as good as factory radio as that solution still uses the door amps.

I used a Clarion CZ-501E aftermarket radio with bluetooth built in. Got it for 150 euros
 
so i take it theres no simple way for this then, i just bought a dvd/sat nav system for mine as well, lol
 
v8chris said:
so i take it theres no simple way for this then, i just bought a dvd/sat nav system for mine as well, lol
Click to expand...

You're right! That's why i'll release a commercial adapter for the P38 Harman Kardon as some companies do with Audi and Bmw...

I'm currently testing it on a Alpine HK too
 
it all depends what standard head unit you have, if its the alpine in the later models you shouldnt need an adaptor for the door speakers. with the older ones you would need to make a harness for the big pink plug to std iso connector and put crossovers in each door. i done it in my old dse, 2 way cross overs are fine for the mid and tweeters.
 
swwrob said:
it all depends what standard head unit you have, if its the alpine in the later models you shouldnt need an adaptor for the door speakers. with the older ones you would need to make a harness for the big pink plug to std iso connector and put crossovers in each door. i done it in my old dse, 2 way cross overs are fine for the mid and tweeters.
Click to expand...

You're right about the plugs adapters but i tried to put another headunit in a 2001 4.6 HSE with Alpine HK and i got the same buzz as in my 1997 4.6 with Clarion HK.

Guess what? Ray Ambler attenuator solved the buzz.

No need to mess with wires, cross overs, whaterver...

It works the same as with correct Headunit.

There's clearly a difference of impedance on Harman Kardon system because those systems are amplified systems (like BOSE, JBL...)

HK headunits (Clarion or Alpine) impedance is 70 ohms when a standard headunit is only 8 ohms.
 
Been looking into this recently, If you knock up the rangerovers.net adaptors, surely that only sorts the issue for the door speakers. How are folk powering the subwoofer in the boot?
 
If you choose the right after-market stereo it's actually quite simple.
  1. Get new stereo with Front-LR, Rear-LR & SUB Phone line level outputs. Must be five outputs.
  2. Buy the 10-pin connector & pins from Nexxia or wherever you find one.
  3. Find 5 x Phone connectors with Coax Audio cable.
  4. Solder each Phono-Coax to the 10-pin connector, BUT, make sure you get all the ground/shield wires to the -ve side on the HK-Amplifier inputs. They are all on the same row on the 10-pin.
  5. Plug everything in, and make sure the stereo outputs go to the correct door.
  6. The other ISO connector on the stereo should plug directly into the P38 connector.
  7. Switch on.

FYI: the HK Amps are balanced inputs, so grounding the same side on each simply un-balances the audio feed. . . .so provided the Stereo properly earths the negative balanced HK input, then you should get no buzz.

I did exactly this on mine using Pioneer DEH-8600BT from Halfords, and now I have excellent sounds and hands-free phone !!

If I get a chance I will do a diagram & photo my adapter.

Pete
 
Right, all done as instructed and it works! Had to swap a few wires about for the power ISO but nothing to loose sleep over but... there is a hiss in the background.

All RCA leads have possitive to positive and sheilding and negative to negative but still the hiss persists! Any ideas where to go next.

It does sound like it could do with some of the rangerover.net adaptors put in but the values would need to be adapted as the volume levels are acceptable but it sounds like the amps could do with some more welly on the inputs to reduce distorsion.
 
Check that the RCA-Phono outputs on the stereo actually have the outer shield grounded properly.

Check which door is hissing or buzzing ? Might give a clue to other connector issues in the P38 Loom.

Pete
 
Cheers Pete, The RCA phono plugs are built directly into the Alpine unit that I'm using so I won't be able to check that easily... but in all honesty the hiss is only there at very low volumes so I can just crank it up a bit lol!

Sorting my butchered speakers just now though which might explain some noises!... the pensioner who owned this car before me really needs to put down the araldite and the silicone!
 
Right guys, little update.

Build a board with 4 Ray Ambler attenuators... Christ! what a difference! Clear as a bell with no hiss. Not bad for about a £5 from RS

Only issue is the subwoofer, I've had to bridge it off one of the rear hi level feeds. If I connect it from an RCA like has been suggested in the past it doesn't have enough welly. Means I've lost seperate control of the sub but the sound is still nicely balanced.
 
rick071155 said:
not quite so mate last year i changed my original head unit for a more upto date sony head unit and auto changer , i got an adaptor lead of a company who advertised on ebay cosy £29.00 and i used just one aerial lead and its always worked a treat ive never had a problem recieving any station .
rick.
Click to expand...

Hey very interested to hear you got a new head unit and auto changer, do you have the model number as I have been searching for a CD changer as mine has gone duff and I really like the CD's in the boot system

Cheers
 
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