i should be OK with fitting it, as long as it really is just one nut to undo! :D:D

and my god they're expensive!

i see you made part of my quote bold... i assume that's because everyone really does just clean them out. presumably petrol is a good cleaner, as usual, as long as it's all cleaned out afterwards? maybe stick the pressure washer in there first?
 
The only consumable parts are the seals ,it really is take it apart, clean it, put it back together.
 
that's good to know... if i'd found one before posting here i'd have just bought one! and a bearmach one is only just under £100!!!

so it's simple then... in theory!! well, it is on my motorbike. i'll get the land rover procedure for an oil change/filter change/sedimenter clean from the haynes!!

Oh, and will my diesel tank empty itself onto my drive if I remove the sedimenter?
 
fishsponge said:
that's good to know... if i'd found one before posting here i'd have just bought one! and a bearmach one is only just under £100!!!

so it's simple then... in theory!! well, it is on my motorbike. i'll get the land rover procedure for an oil change/filter change/sedimenter clean from the haynes!!

Oh, and will my diesel tank empty itself onto my drive if I remove the sedimenter?
Click to expand...

Mine didn't but I would do it when ya tank is nearly empty just in case and have a bucket handy.
 
ok, will do.

so, my shopping list on the basis that if I have the tool to take something off, i'll definitely have the ability to put it back on and therefore absolutely cannot end up stuck on my drive is as follows:

- sedimentor seal
- oil filter & seal
- fuel filter and seal
- engine oil (7 litres of 15W/40 as i'll presumably need some to prime the filter)
- sump plug washer

sound good? :D
 
fishsponge said:
OK, they've not actually replaced the swivel ball yet, but they've said they'll do it for the cost of the parts + £40 labour (which is the extra it would have cost if they'd done it last time).

The other swivel ball is fine, so yes - this is concluded!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

HOLY SH!T mate !!, I had no idea you were having this kinda bother.

If I,d have known you were in trouble I could of made some time and we,d a had it sorted in a couple of hours.

I,ve got the names of 2 other top landrover mechanics locally aswell.

Sorry mate, but dont get in a hassle like this again without giving me a shout.

Del.
 
50 pence said:
HOLY SH!T mate !!, I had no idea you were having this kinda bother.

If I,d have known you were in trouble I could of made some time and we,d a had it sorted in a couple of hours.

I,ve got the names of 2 other top landrover mechanics locally aswell.

Sorry mate, but dont get in a hassle like this again without giving me a shout.

Del.
Click to expand...

s'ok - i'm in no bother... had a dispute with the garage, but got it sorted quite easily, and am slowly working my way through a service! :D:D:D
 
fishsponge said:
ok, will do.

so, my shopping list on the basis that if I have the tool to take something off, i'll definitely have the ability to put it back on and therefore absolutely cannot end up stuck on my drive is as follows:

- sedimentor seal
- oil filter & seal
- fuel filter and seal
- engine oil (7 litres of 15W/40 as i'll presumably need some to prime the filter)
- sump plug washer

sound good? :D
Click to expand...

Yeah sounds good. Sedimentor has two seals (the bowl is in two parts), oil filter should have a seal on already and fuel filter should come with seals.
 
I used the LR parts app for the iphone, i've got a filter set sitting right next to me, the filters are made by UFI (polish import) and look servicable, nice thing is that the kit came with a new sump plug washer i wasnt expecting, £14 i think.

Im using Britpart filters now, just done a service and had them in stock already. They look just as good as the stuff i took off, with a short six month service interval, i dont think the make of filter will make much difference really.

The sedimentor is a doddle (usually) but when you have undone or loosened the bolt on top, put a plastic bag over the whole bowl before cracking the seal or you will get a diesel bath, not nice, the bag will catch the fuel. Then its a quick clean, wipe the seal and bung it back, job done. (check for leaks after a test drive)
 
right... i'm off to the garage first thing in the morning so they can do the swivel ball replacement!

I'm sure it'll be fine, but i'll report back when it's done!! Then i'll know if i have any money left to do the oil change this month! :D
 
swivel ball replaced!!

Not particularly cheap though... I was only charged £40 + VAT labour, but they certainly made a bit of that back on parts... all £121.66 + VAT of them.

In summary, swivel housing was £76 (I think it's a Britpart one), bearing was £16 (not wheel bearing - it was smaller), oil seals were £9 & £3 respectively, and a few gaskets. I also bought an oil filter for £3 and a fuel filter for £5 ready for my service i'll be doing soon.

So, it came to £193 inc. VAT in the end. not particularly cheap, but I guess that's just garage parts prices!

All in all, if i'd had it done at the same time as the wheel bearing it would have cost £407 to have the wheel bearings replaced and the swivel ball replaced on a single wheel. I really must do it myself next time.

Does that sound reasonable for garage prices, though??
 
Last edited:
so everyone's keen to know what the garage were going to do about it, but nobody cares now the end result has happened??

or did y'all just read it and run out of comments?!
 
Hi....or they're all getting ready to go home.......

Seems about right for a garage....they are always going to be more expensive than they say..unless you get a quote......it is much better to do these things yourself if your able.
Land rovers were socially engineered by Land Rover to be a lifestyle choice and i'm afraid that comes with a price....high service costs and high running costs.
Glad you've got it sorted...whats next?
 
Next is a service! Well... oil and filter change, at least.

Fuel filter, oil filter & sump washer bought already. Just need some oil now, and a bit of time! I'll read up on the procedure for an oil and filter change in the Haynes too... I imagine it's the simplest job of them all, but ya never know until you've done it once!! :D
 
...it's very simple.....warm the oil a little to speed up the time it takes to drain if you need to.....BUT be careful when undoing the drain plug as it may be hotter then you think!!! and, if the drain plug is on the side as it is on the 200, it (The oil) gushed out and went everywhere as i remember....filters are about £5 and get good oil, i never have used synthetic in these as i changed it every 5,000 miles.....normally one of those jobs that is quick and satisfying....
 
1 - check yu can crack open the sump nut - they are known as being f......ing tight.
2 - put a plastic bag over the oil filter and housing, so when it drops off, it goes into the bag, rather than down yo arm and over the drive.
3 - put summat under the oil filter housing, coz oil still pours out of it after yu have removed the filter - another bag will do. (over the steering rod and ground - etc)
4 - when yu undo the sump nut - make sure the container is .....
a) big enuff (surface area).
b) big enuff (volume).
 
Good stuff on getting that ball done :)

Not totally needed but i always fill the new filter with oil before screwing it on.

My sump nut is at the back by the clutch housing so nice and easy to drain, crack it loose first, just in case.

Make sure you have enough oil.

Smear some oil on the rubber ring on top of the filter before spinning it on, it will seal better.

If it's not been off for a while, the filter can be a bitch to get off, my first change took four hours, three of which was trying to get the damn filter off. Second service took 90 minutes.

Are you doing tranny and box? If so get the right oil in the right box :)
 
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