CohPC

Well-Known Member
Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favourite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)
 
Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favorite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)
I have two of these but I have found that they do not last very long and quickly it becomes annoying as oil bypasses the piston seal, especially atf and then drips out of the breather hole on the back. i also have a drill powered oil pump which also has the same issue in that it didn't last very long until the seal became too loos and did not act as a pump. Despite all claiming to be oil rated nothing I have used so far has lasted more than a couple of uses before beginning to leak. it doesn't stop me using them it just makes more mess and is irritating.
 
I have two of these but I have found that they do not last very long and quickly it becomes annoying as oil bypasses the piston seal, especially atf and then drips out of the breather hole on the back. i also have a drill powered oil pump which also has the same issue in that it didn't last very long until the seal became too loos and did not act as a pump. Despite all claiming to be oil rated nothing I have used so far has lasted more than a couple of uses before beginning to leak. it doesn't stop me using them it just makes more mess and is irritating.
There's probably not a non messy way of doing it, so if they last a few uses your only adding a couple of quid per service
 
I have found that warming the new oil up helps with filling.

I had a 20 litre bucket of 80w/90 that I stood in front of an electric radiator for a few hours before filling using a syringe type fluid transfer gun.

Warm oil is thinner which makes it flow a lot easier.
 
Decided to spend an afternoon changing oil in gear box etc.

Probably been recommended before but I treated myself to a hilka oil suction gun, made filling much easier and slightly less messy, 10 quid in screwfix or slightly cheaper on amazon if you've got prime for the free delivery.

Now my second favourite tool (favourite tool is the little telescopic rod with magnet on the end for retrieving dropped nuts etc, in fact I like these so much I've got 2, the second is for retrieving the first telescopic rod when I drop it)
Are you using.the right ep90?

Col
 
There's probably not a non messy way of doing it, so if they last a few uses your only adding a couple of quid per service
I have an old style gear oil bottle with a plastic tube on the lid for top ups.

For changes, I have a similar bottle, with a plastic hose pushed over the spout, and the bottom cut off, so it is effectively a funnel with a 4 foot flexible tube attached to the bottom.
An assistant sits in the vehicle, with the centre panel removed, and I lie underneath, with the end of the tube in the filler hole.
The assistant just pours gear oil direct from a 5 litre container into the funnel, until I see oil begin to emerge from the hole.
I pull the tube out, finger over it, and insert the filler plug with the other hand. Then on to the transfer box.
Communication between the operator doing the pouring, and the operator under the vehicle, is key to not getting loads of oil all over the place.

As @Webley1991 comments, temperature is a factor in how long this will take.
I can't be bothered to mess around with heaters, so I just do the changes on a hot summer day.
 
theres ep90-gl4 and ep90-gl5, i used the ep90 gl4
That will be fine. You can also get 90 weight Hypoid gear oil.
Gl is a fairly recent thing, I think Gl5 is for modern vehicles, but probably wasted on an old Series.
Likewise multigrade gear oils.
 
Oilsafe for pumping the oil, not cheap but bloody excellent and mine is at least 15 years old
 
Good to have all the knowledge available on here, gives me assurance I'm doing the right things. Next job will be to give it a good service before the summer when it will get more use (only doing a couple of hundred miles a month mainly short journeys at the moment) I'll be asking which points it needs as there's 3 different types but no where telling you how to identify them (probably doesn't need new points/plugs etc but be good to be able to put the old working ones under the seat just in case of breakdown)
 
I'll be asking which points it needs

Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)
upload_2023-1-3_18-2-17.png


Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs :D
 
Good to have all the knowledge available on here, gives me assurance I'm doing the right things. Next job will be to give it a good service before the summer when it will get more use (only doing a couple of hundred miles a month mainly short journeys at the moment) I'll be asking which points it needs as there's 3 different types but no where telling you how to identify them (probably doesn't need new points/plugs etc but be good to be able to put the old working ones under the seat just in case of breakdown)


Been running gl5 in my series boxes/diffs for a decade or so, not blown up yet!
Basically so long as it roughly the right viscocity it will work.

Guy on the s2 forum stuck some gl4 and 5 into two jars and stuck some yellow gbox bits in them, after a long time he could see no difference in the jars.
 
Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)
View attachment 280845

Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs :D
Need to replace them with one of these (along with a couple of other small changes)
View attachment 280845

Then the whole thing will be greatly improved. It will stop refusing to start/run rough when it is a little damp out, make much more noise and satisfying Black smoke out the back, and generally be much much better than anything that requires points and plugs :D
Yeah, I think not. I like doing more than 45 mph sometimes
 

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