Well not too many. Just reset the fuel adaptations, adjust idle speed, and test turbo/egr/intake.
 
PRO said:
Well not too many. Just reset the fuel adaptations, adjust idle speed, and test turbo/egr/intake.
Click to expand...
I already did the intake path calibration and fueling adaptations reset, when I first put the engine back together.
Now the piston and valves have bedded in, I suspect it's in need of another calibration session, however I can't see the point, until I've fitted that lovely low mileage 2015 SD4 head.;)
 
Wish I could steal that from you, my engine runs fine now but is noisy because of the valves wear pattern and don't want to change all valves and rockers for that.
 
PRO said:
Wish I could steal that from you, my engine runs fine now but is noisy because of the valves wear pattern and don't want to change all valves and rockers for that.
Click to expand...

It took me 8 months of waiting for it to come up.
There's nothing to stop you doing something similar. ;)

Incidentally, what make head gasket set did you get?
 
Nodge68 said:
There's nothing to stop you doing something similar. ;)
Click to expand...

Easier said than done, I have ebay alerts and I am getting notifications as soon as they are listed but so far 51k is the best and 500 quiddy. It is low but not low enough for me to do this job again.
 
Nodge68 said:
I did well then, mine was 8900 miles, and cost £310 delivered.
Click to expand...
Yes sounds nice. I will strip the valves on my spare head, the ones that have no wear (some appear like that) then get a few new ones, new lifters and new lash adjusters and that will do. Might end up cheaper that way, less than 200.
 
PRO said:
Yes sounds nice. I will strip the valves on my spare head, the ones that have no wear (some appear like that) then get a few new ones, new lifters and new lash adjusters and that will do. Might end up cheaper that way, less than 200.
Click to expand...

That sounds like a good plan.

What HG set did you use?
 
For HG I went for ELRING 732.190 as it's the best price/quality.
For bolts went for Payen Kit HBS261
Seals cortego or reinz.
I did not get any ready complete kit, although cheaper they contain BGA parts which is like britpart for engines.
 
Mine has a BGA HG kit, which seems OK, but wasn't my preferred choice, it's just what I could get in budget.
 
Some BGA things might be ok, bu in my experience mostly are to be avoided. on MLS hgs prob alright, but I got a few valves for my past mitsubishi v6 and the quality difference was just concerning. I returned them all.
 
Last edited:
PRO said:
Gentlemen, I present you JLR SDD. Took me a few days to install/setup in between the works of my stripped down fl2 engine.

Available at https://tinyurl.com/projlr in both virtual machines or iso kits of standalone installations.

Check JLR SDD Installation.pdf, covers all details.

@Nodge68 perhaps is a good idea to publish the link on first page so whoever lands here from google or search to not read all the pages?

IPC mod guide is in the works.
All images have the IPC mod included.
Click to expand...

Is jlr_sdd_images folder gone?
lr - Google Driv.png
 
hi guys im new to this software and ive got 1.54 with mongoose lead so been trying to clear some faults and run some issues but it goes to download lastest software when im clearing faults running in extras etc .
is it software for the module hcu etc or is it trying to download new jlr software because last time it updated it stopped working. ?
 
You don't want it to connect to the JLR server, as all these copies of SDD are ripped off. It's my understanding that if it connects to the JLR server, the software is locked out.

I've a dedicated laptop for my SDD, which has had the WiFi module removed, so it can't connect to the Internet on purpose, or by accident.

JLR software when working does take some getting used to, but it does what is needed.
It's best not to clear codes, as they don't cause any issues when in memory, but do retain a history of impending issues. ;)
 
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