Best way to tighten the bolts on the FIP pulley? Also have I got the plate the right way round. Think this is the only way it goes on but the remaining holes look misaligned with holes underneath if that makes any sense?

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holes only line up one way providing plate is right way round,when you fit the belt you need to ensure pulley slots allow enough advance ie clockwise movement to adjust the pump, the plate is also used for the cam
 
the cut out is where the timing pin goes through, the elongated holes in the plate is where the pulley bolts go through and the pulley should turn freely to allow you to time it all up.
 
the cut out is where the timing pin goes through, the elongated holes in the plate is where the pulley bolts go through and the pulley should turn freely to allow you to time it all up.
its the pulley elongated holes bolts go through not the plate its fixed by the pin
 
Gave the chassis and wheel arches a coat of paint just to protect the galv.

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Not far now. I put my engine in today, you wouldn't believe how much easier it is without any bulkhead, gearbox, bodywork or radiator in the way. The downside is that all of the above are at least six feet and many bolts from where they need to be for next week.
 
Not far now. I put my engine in today, you wouldn't believe how much easier it is without any bulkhead, gearbox, bodywork or radiator in the way. The downside is that all of the above are at least six feet and many bolts from where they need to be for next week.

I feel your pain. It’s funny towards the end of a project I keep looking for things to do to keep it going. About time I just stuck the engine back in and got it back on the road.
 
Anyone know the part number for the bolts that hold the pulley to the FIP? Can seem to see them on the FIP diagram in the parts book
 
Anyone know the part number for the bolts that hold the pulley to the FIP? Can seem to see them on the FIP diagram in the parts book
fs108207l its an m8 x 20mm flange head bolt,apply loctite to the threads for the final tighten ie all 3 are tight but no loctite ,remove 1 at a time and add loctite then fully tighten
 
I feel your pain. It’s funny towards the end of a project I keep looking for things to do to keep it going. About time I just stuck the engine back in and got it back on the road.

No, don't be silly, you have yet to color code each individual bolt head, stop looking for excuses to waste money on diesel :p
 
Engine is in. It was a bloody nightmare getting to out the workshop, up two sets of steps, round my back garden and out the back.

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Engine is in. It was a bloody nightmare getting to out the workshop, up two sets of steps, round my back garden and out the back.

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Too late now, but I discovered that a skateboard is not just another kids toy that need clearing up. They seem to be incredibly durable since I've used the same one to move gearbox/transfer boxes and a 600lb engine around on really rough concrete and it was just a cheapy. The lean/steer is handy too.
 
Too late now, but I discovered that a skateboard is not just another kids toy that need clearing up. They seem to be incredibly durable since I've used the same one to move gearbox/transfer boxes and a 600lb engine around on really rough concrete and it was just a cheapy. The lean/steer is handy too.

That’s interesting I used a 300kg trolley from B&Q and it crumpled like a tin can. It’s why it took us 5 hrs to move it about 50m
 
Which way round do the pipes into the lift pump go? One has an arrow on it on the lift pump. Is this the one to the FIP?
 

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