brianp38dse said:
Everything is fixable, its just finding what to fix is the pain in the backside.
Click to expand...

What are you saying? It's clearly f*cked. Wammers said so. The thingamajig has ostled the fartwark completely snargling the gruntlebot. We'd be doing him a favour. Of course, quite a drive up there. Hardly worth my time really unless he throws the E-type in as a sweetner ...
 
I thought wammers said it was only partially farkled, and an Italian tune-up and 2 quarts of rubber cement in the fuel tank would sort it out pronto.
 
DanClarke said:
I thought wammers said it was only partially farkled, and an Italian tune-up and 2 quarts of rubber cement in the fuel tank would sort it out pronto.
Click to expand...

That was when he though it was the whatsit shorting the thingamabob on the clack valve. Well and truly farked now.
 
mozz smith said:
hey al , you and wammy **** the bed :eek::eek::eek:????? ......
Click to expand...
Hi Arthur, how are you doing mate, I guess the phone doesn't work from Manc land.:p Glad to see your still about, I tagged you for a new member, happy to see you still have the mental ability to help. Take care pal.:D
 
Bit of an update, when I reconnected the battery the o/s /r door latch clicked as if locking. I left the car unlocked by mistake , went out today ,five days later and it started .So, left it unlocked and will check in a week's time. Could it be a faulty door latch? Over to the electrickery wizards.
 
I had this on mine, one of the door mechanism on the rear had locked as normal and refused to unlock sending the bus immobilised. After jump starting the lock with a lawnmower battery all was good. I think you may be onto something;)
 
Mark Piercy said:
I had this on mine, one of the door mechanism on the rear had locked as normal and refused to unlock sending the bus immobilised. After jump starting the lock with a lawnmower battery all was good. I think you may be onto something;)
Click to expand...
I hope so mate, I think @DanClarke mentioned he thought one of his locks was suspect .Or am I thinking about@holidaychicken because he definitely is;):D
 
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
 
DanClarke said:
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
Click to expand...
Just got one rear door lock cycle when reconnecting the battery. Can enter the EKA code, dont know about dropping the suspension with the door open. Is the rear lock operated by the drivers door latch microswitches or through the becm is the question ?
 
The tailgate lock power is switched thru the drivers doorlock switches (a reason why they burn out?) but I think the rear-doors are separately switched by the BeCM on receiving an "unlock" command from a valid drivers-door key opening or a valid RF remote.
 
DanClarke said:
The tailgate lock power is switched thru the drivers doorlock switches (a reason why they burn out?) but I think the rear-doors are separately switched by the BeCM on receiving an "unlock" command from a valid drivers-door key opening or a valid RF remote.
Click to expand...
Sounds like the becm is keeping the o/s/r powered then.Is that possible @martyuk ?
 
DanClarke said:
@tomcat59alan Yup, 'twas me indeed. I think I have either a nadgered switch pack in the drivers door, or the loom-connector is not fully home.
I get ghost doorlock cycles, no EKA acknowledgements and I can drop the suspension sometimes with the drivers door ajar.
All of these are (I think) symptoms of the need for a new switchpack (which I have). Just not got round to testing for the fault definitively, or fitting it yet.
Click to expand...

The door ajar switch is inside the lock actuator.

@tomcat59alan : Marty did a lock tests troubleshooting guide somewhere. Not sure if it made it into the How To. I think Brian has a copy.
 
Thanks peeps, I checked the drivers door lock a while back all ok. As I said its just the o/s/r that seems to lock itself when the battery is reconnected.I've left it unlocked at the mo, going to leave it a week and if it starts then, unless Grrrrrrs been up and nicked it.:eek::D
 
tomcat59alan said:
Thanks peeps, I checked the drivers door lock a while back all ok. As I said its just the o/s/r that seems to lock itself when the battery is reconnected.I've left it unlocked at the mo, going to leave it a week and if it starts then, unless Grrrrrrs been up and nicked it.:eek::D
Click to expand...

Could be me; could be Brian; or being Liverpool it could be one of about half a million suspects.
 
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