Nice coloured motor. Pity the drain has turned it into an expensive lawn ornament. More hassle than it is worth really ... might as well donate it to another member to leave outside his house for spare parts ...
Looks the same colour as yours mate, paint code 601? You dropping a hint :D
 
Looking at RAVE, F33 is the data link connector but also the battery backed up alarm sounder on later models. How old is this car?

The connectors C102 and C202 are behind the right-hand trim panel so guess it might be worth checking those for corrosion?
It's 1998my, if the rain goes off I'll check again ,think I heard the sounder chirp when I pulled /reinserted the fuse so you may be on to something there. No nanocom, is there anything I can disconnect to eliminate it out of the list of possibilities?
 
It's 1998my, if the rain goes off I'll check again ,think I heard the sounder chirp when I pulled /reinserted the fuse so you may be on to something there. No nanocom, is there anything I can disconnect to eliminate it out of the list of possibilities?

Have to wait till this evening when I can dig out RAVE. I'd just disconnect the sounder. I did on my Omega with no issues other than it blared for about 30 minutes until the battery went flat.
 
Paint code 601 is rioja red it is a very nice colour, hum car as spares now there's an idea :p:D:D:D I could do with a driver front wing in that colour:D
 
Mines Rioja red too, and no its not available for spares.
The BBUS is located on the top of the inner wing under the battery tray area and has a pull out connector, so that's a good and simple thing to pull apart.
Mine was disconnected when I got the car, so I reconnected it. Are the internal batteries inside it replaceable I wonder?
 
Just seen a post that suggests that the "ageing" batteries in the BBUS (if fitted) can place a continuous "re-charge" load/drain onto the main battery.
So it is well-worth pulling the BBUS connector as a test. If you have the bonnet lock-switch fooled and can wait till the BeCM goes to sleep and the 0.164 amps is seen, pop the BBUS connector and see what happens to your amps reading?
I would be interested to hear what you get @tomcat59alan :D
 
Ahhhhh....
Just read this in the Electrical troubleshooting manual......

Two different types of Alarm Sounders are available:
1. Normal Alarm Klaxon (Alarm Sounder (Z171))
2. Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder (Z272) The Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder (Z272) is an alarm sounder which contains its own internal battery.
When the ignition is on, the internal battery is charged via an ignition feed. If either the connector is removed or the wires to it are cut, then the sounder will sound for 4.5 minutes.
(So, this means it can only draw current for charging while the ignition is switched on).
To disconnect the Battery Backed Up Alarm Sounder (Z272):
Turn Ignition On (Pos. II).
Turn Ignition Off.
Disconnect within 17 seconds.
To silence if triggered:
Connect.
Disarm Alarm.
Turn Ignition On (Pos. II).
 
Paint code 601 is rioja red it is a very nice colour, hum car as spares now there's an idea :p:D:D:D I could do with a driver front wing in that colour:D

Yeah, my driver's door has a couple of splodges of electrolytic oxidation. My seats are getting a bit tired too. Always nice to have a spare engine. Any idea where there might be lawn ornament someone would want to get shot of?!
 
Just seen a post that suggests that the "ageing" batteries in the BBUS (if fitted) can place a continuous "re-charge" load/drain onto the main battery.
So it is well-worth pulling the BBUS connector as a test. If you have the bonnet lock-switch fooled and can wait till the BeCM goes to sleep and the 0.164 amps is seen, pop the BBUS connector and see what happens to your amps reading?
I would be interested to hear what you get @tomcat59alan :D
I disconnected the sounder and it never made any difference until I plugged it back in and the discharge increased meant to note the readings but my mate turned up with a sick Smart car, what a heap of sh1t.
 
As soon as there looks to be a fine day again I will have a dabble looking for the current draw on mine too.
Luckily, I have a CTEK "Comfort" connector so the charger can ensure the BeCM doesn't lose power while I put an ammeter in the earth line.
Then, If I can see how to fool the bonnet-closed switch off we go measuring the current-draw.
Will update with whatever I find too.
 
As soon as there looks to be a fine day again I will have a dabble looking for the current draw on mine too.
Luckily, I have a CTEK "Comfort" connector so the charger can ensure the BeCM doesn't lose power while I put an ammeter in the earth line.
Then, If I can see how to fool the bonnet-closed switch off we go measuring the current-draw.
Will update with whatever I
 
Two bolts hold the bonnet latches in place and the closed switch is just a microswitch on one of them.
Beware though, when I took mine off, one of the bolts sheared so one of my latches is only held in by one bolt at the moment
 
Two bolts hold the bonnet latches in place and the closed switch is just a microswitch on one of them.
Beware though, when I took mine off, one of the bolts sheared so one of my latches is only held in by one bolt at the moment
Eek! Will try to simulate an inserted bonnet latch and not destroy anything.
 
They are steel bolts in plastic and 3 of the 4 came out fairly easily, the last one sheared off like it was made from cheese.
It would be fairly easy to put a nut and bolt through instead, I just didn't have enough time when I replaced the bonnet cables.
 

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