Blob said:

Air suspension is the main one my friend. All online detail suggests it's at the bottom of the A pillar but it's not and they are always <2009 cars. I can't find RAVE for the 2010> either, can you PM a link for it if you have it please?

I haven't tested the CAN lines as I have no starting point for it. I am utterly convinced I have a module ruining it for everybody so I need to narrow it down. If I can find the one (I assume) that when disconnected stops absolutely everything being in fault it will help me to know where to look, be it the module itself, corrosion in the connectors, earth issue etc. This is such a crazy problem because I just don't know where to begin.

If I test the CAN lines, what will it tell me? There has to be voltage/signal on the line but I won't know with a meter where or what is being generated or is there something more I can do?

Just removed every piece of audio kit in the boot and checked. All faults still exist with everything else, obviously the Audio stuff was showing as "Not fitted" at that time.

This was a fun lunchtime task

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Ok I will look . The 2010-2011 is a crossover as we have already found out.

As for testing CAN lines, I cant say how to test other than basic knowledge that it could be handy.

I know this is not the normal place for @gstuart but am sure he posted somewhere for testing CAN lines.

J

The only way to properly check the serial data lines is with an oscilloscope, or CAN decoder module. For the optical stuff just bridge out each ECU as suggested above.

If you only have basic multimeter, then check there's 12V & ground at each ECU.

Blob said:

Whist on this boot subject, can anyone else confirm whether or not the spare wheel lifting straps have been removed by LR on later cars or just on mine. You can see the bolt holes by the jack for them but they don't look as though they've ever been fitted and I think it is such a brilliant idea, even more so as I had to lift that lump out earlier. I might try and get some from a breaker at some point when I've fixed the car.

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I think they were an option mate, never had them on mine either. Agree they look handy!

If you disconnect any of the fibres it will break the loop which should stop any traffic including rogue signals.
As said a scope is probably the easiest way to check the CAN signals. It probably won't mean anything but at least you could see if the signals are permanently high or low, and square. You can buy a usb scope that connects to your pc relatively cheaply (in range rover terms of cheapness )

Blob said:

Whist on this boot subject, can anyone else confirm whether or not the spare wheel lifting straps have been removed by LR on later cars or just on mine. You can see the bolt holes by the jack for them but they don't look as though they've ever been fitted and I think it is such a brilliant idea, even more so as I had to lift that lump out earlier. I might try and get some from a breaker at some point when I've fixed the car.

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We have them in our 322 and they are great.
Its a struggle getting a wheel out of that hole, but the straps make it so easy. Well worth the cost ours were aftermarket.

J

Blob said:

Air suspension is the main one my friend. All online detail suggests it's at the bottom of the A pillar but it's not and they are always <2009 cars. I can't find RAVE for the 2010> either, can you PM a link for it if you have it please?

I haven't tested the CAN lines as I have no starting point for it. I am utterly convinced I have a module ruining it for everybody so I need to narrow it down. If I can find the one (I assume) that when disconnected stops absolutely everything being in fault it will help me to know where to look, be it the module itself, corrosion in the connectors, earth issue etc. This is such a crazy problem because I just don't know where to begin.

If I test the CAN lines, what will it tell me? There has to be voltage/signal on the line but I won't know with a meter where or what is being generated or is there something more I can do?

Just removed every piece of audio kit in the boot and checked. All faults still exist with everything else, obviously the Audio stuff was showing as "Not fitted" at that time.

This was a fun lunchtime task

Whist on this boot subject, can anyone else confirm whether or not the spare wheel lifting straps have been removed by LR on later cars or just on mine. You can see the bolt holes by the jack for them but they don't look as though they've ever been fitted and I think it is such a brilliant idea, even more so as I had to lift that lump out earlier. I might try and get some from a breaker at some point when I've fixed the car.

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That's a flimsy looking scissor jack for a heavy vehicle, things went a bit downhill after the P38.

aj1954 said:

That's a flimsy looking scissor jack for a heavy vehicle, things went a bit downhill after the P38.

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Bit of a widow-maker apparently. I'd rather wait for breakdown than use it

marjon said:

Ok I will look . The 2010-2011 is a crossover as we have already found out.

As for testing CAN lines, I cant say how to test other than basic knowledge that it could be handy.

I know this is not the normal place for @gstuart but am sure he posted somewhere for testing CAN lines.

J

Click to expand...

hiya

must confess have used a multimeter to test the canbus on a D3 , indeed ref using an oscilloscope, canbus sniffer just used the multimeter to get a basic test

also use a Curien N2 which is a graphing meter along with the gap iid for live data

likewise can’t unplug modules otherwise will break the canbus circuit, but can bridge them , apologises not sure on the FFRR


this is what I wrote out for the ohms resisters and Vdc on high low canbus

With both battery leads disconnected from the battery posts

Multimeter set to ohms, ( TP Is just short for test probe from ur multimeter )

TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14, read ohms TP to pin 3 other TP to pin 11, read ohms


Reconnect battery, ign off , meter set to Vdc

TP to pin 6 other TP pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc

TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 4 Read Vdc
TP to pin 14 other TP to pin 5 Read Vdc

TP to pin 6 other TP to pin 14 read Vdc

Pin 16 will be your battery Positive

with the scope easier watching it as u move connectors etc to see if there’s any change, plus good point with regards to the Vdc and ground , have found bad earths causing untold amount of issues that were in my TCM module, had to search for the ground earth post which was bad, cleaned and reinstalled using some copperslip

alas not sure how the D3 tests will compare to other models , however fingers crossed it may just give some basic results

know there are many others who are far more knowledgeable than myself

Also found using a break out box very useful

Video in case it’s useful to anyone and the Curien N2

pwood999 said:

Also, don't do a generic "scan all modules". Instead read & clear each module separately, and see what responds.

You could also try pulling fuses for some ECU's so they cannot respond, but beware many vehicles have the CAN lines go in & out to the next module, rather than connected in parallel.

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great point with regards to the fuses

know when I had battery drain I had to make up fused loops seeing if I pulled a fuse it would wake the system back up and therefore give a false reading

alas havent got into oscilliscopes as of yet or canbus sniffers , managed to get by so far using a multimeter , graphing meter and the gap iid via the bi directional data

indeed every day is a school day and always nice learning new things , thk u

marjon said:

Have looked at the fault codes (for a 2011 but consider the same)
As you have said you cleared and they all came back.
All I can do is agree with those above about the CAN line being broken causing so many comms issues. With all the "U" faults
Some of them say "module needs coding" If you haven't changed any modules, and don't have many of those fault categories, (TPMS, Keyless entry, rear diff).

I will say that I usually ignore the odd U fault, but as yours is throwing up so many other faults.

My take is, if it cant communicate then it cant see all the sensors, or does but cant send it back so you could get the other faults.


J

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plus 1 ref the U codes as also ignore them but indeed as u mention there’s hell of a lot there

wonder if it’s worth testing the ground points , or put a jump lead from the battery ground to a good earth point to see if there’s any change, easy to find a good ground with a multimeter

also seen where some people have used a very basic reader instead of a good one and therefore giving the wrong fault codes ??

wonder if the OP has checked the wiring diagram to see where the 120 ohms resisters are and done a basic ohms canbus test using a multimeter along with canbus VDC

plus if the battery / alternator is ok and not causing a spike , sorry I’m waffling as per usual ,

Blob said:

Air suspension is the main one my friend. All online detail suggests it's at the bottom of the A pillar but it's not and they are always <2009 cars. I can't find RAVE for the 2010> either, can you PM a link for it if you have it please?

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My 2007-2010 lists it on the A pillar but my 2011 lists it as being in the rear RH quarter.

J

marjon said:

My 2007-2010 lists it on the A pillar but my 2011 lists it as being in the rear RH quarter.

J

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Really... hmm, I think the only thing I have there is the Telestart module. Well, work is quiet today and it's not raining so I may well pul that apart shortly. Thanks for checking.

This what CAN Bus should look like on a scope:




If it looks like this there will be fake faults.

I expect mine looks like the second pic but with a child's crayon drawing over the top given the number of issues I allegedly have!

Had a little play about just now and I don't think the Suspension module is in the RH rear 1/4 but there was one hiding up there which is the Adaptive Dynamics one or at least that was the fault on the dash when I disconnected it and GapIID said it wasn't present then so I'm fairly confident that's what that one was. The hunt continues for the RLM.

All that said, the more you look, the more you find so I realised today that as I went out in the car just now that I don't get any noticeable faults when it is cold. It's stood over night and when I start it and drive away there is no Suspension fault warning on the dash and that is true most days but I'll confirm now I've noticed a pattern there.

Ignoring for a moment every other fault, the Suspension one (which is the only one ever highlighted on the cluster) only happens when you restart the car. I drove it to my local tip (3 miles) unloaded it and then when I got back in the car and started it I was prepped for the usual ding of despair and it didn't happen, as I pulled out and went up the steep hill, you guessed it "SUSPENSION FAULT!" The more I look, the more the patterns point to the suspension module in as much as they are the constant faults and that whenever there is a noticeable change in terrain it struggles. to reconcile as I think I mentioned in an early post; I started getting errors turning on to my driveway which is full left lock up the dropped kerb and it would be fine until the end of my journey. That only lasted about a week but you could just know it would happen there. Same thing today, left turn up a steep incline and I get a fault. If I try to put it in access mode it goes straight into fault. All live values are coming back through GapIID though and nothing appears to not be responding.

On top of this, with the Adaptive Dynamics unit unplugged, I'd been scanning etc. and then had the car running for 5 mins too when I went to plug it back in, I touched the Suspension/Dynaics relay with the back of my hand and it was hot! Wouldn't burn you but was noticeably hotter than any others. I swapped it with the rear heater blower one (same relay) and that got hot too. I don't think this info helps the diagnosis but it bolsters the opinion that there is something screwy going on here doesn't it? Relays don't normally get hot like that do they?

More likely to be wiring issues on the ECU's somewhere. Suspension is more often air leak issues than the ECU. If height sensors have been changed then calibration must be done, or any faults there cannot be trusted. Same applies for any car with EAS.

Blob said:

Had a little play about just now and I don't think the Suspension module is in the RH rear 1/4 but there was one hiding up there which is the Adaptive Dynamics one or at least that was the fault on the dash when I disconnected it and GapIID said it wasn't present then so I'm fairly confident that's what that one was. The hunt continues for the RLM.

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Yes that 1 is listed as there too.

Have a read as it mentions 2 modules in there.

Oh and should mention that you said "low on the A post" my docs show high on the A post.

J

Blob said:

Air suspension is the main one my friend. All online detail suggests it's at the bottom of the A pillar but it's not and they are always <2009 cars. I can't find RAVE for the 2010> either, can you PM a link for it if you have it please?

Click to expand...

Did you look in the passenger footwell behind the left hand kick panel?

backinblack said:

Did you look in the passenger footwell behind the left hand kick panel?

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Yeah, it's not there