Are you sure it's an electrical fault? All the probs I've had with my and RRC and current Disco windows have all been mechanical. Scissor mechanism, motor drive on the big coggy like bit etc. Pull the door cards off and make sure everything is running freely and the glass is not jamming
positive.

switch in up mode - the two wires to the motor have 12V & ground. in down mode - nothing. this is at the supply side of the motor connector, so removes the motor from the problem. having swapped switches, over the switch is no longer suspect. having got power to the motor, that removes the wiring as suspect - that has to, in my opinion, mean the problem is either prior to the switch, or between the switch and the motor.....
 
positive.

switch in up mode - the two wires to the motor have 12V & ground. in down mode - nothing. this is at the supply side of the motor connector, so removes the motor from the problem. having swapped switches, over the switch is no longer suspect. having got power to the motor, that removes the wiring as suspect - that has to, in my opinion, mean the problem is either prior to the switch, or between the switch and the motor.....

Put some fly wires in from switch ... or direct supply
 
had thought of that , but that will only prove motor, which i am happy is ok.

Will it not check switch to motor wires ?

Then trace to rear passenger isolator switch and try from there, is feed the same from door switch and console switch ?
 
Will it not check switch to motor wires ?

Then trace to rear passenger isolator switch and try from there, is feed the same from door switch and console switch ?


lol

thats the prob - i think there is something between the switch and motor..... like the ecu... but i have always been told the ecu only does the rear windows... thats why i am looking for a accurate wiring diagram.

:confused:
 
lol

thats the prob - i think there is something between the switch and motor..... like the ecu... but i have always been told the ecu only does the rear windows... thats why i am looking for a accurate wiring diagram.

:confused:

Well there's not a lot of info out there...

Found someone with the same trouble on a two-door, so could be a duff ECU : Land Rover Owner • View topic - bloody electric window problem.

I always thought that there were relays under the steering wheel for the windows one for front one for rear - could have a swap round - unless I've got that wrong and I've confuddled meself - again ...

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f16/discovery-300tdi-windows-help-please-187415.html and there's more
 
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nar - the relays are on the ecu - and (i believe) for rear motors only. This can be seen as rly 1 & 2 on your photo above.

but why???? have a relay for just the rear doors?
 
nar - the relays are on the ecu - and (i believe) for rear motors only. This can be seen as rly 1 & 2 on your photo above.

but why???? have a relay for just the rear doors?

Could be the current draw - as you can operate both together ...
 
lol

thats the prob - i think there is something between the switch and motor..... like the ecu... but i have always been told the ecu only does the rear windows... thats why i am looking for a accurate wiring diagram.

:confused:


From what I can see looking at the Disco 1 RAVE, the wiring for the front windows does go to and through the Window Lift ECU.
Apart from the fact that there is a timing function involved in there, there are also the possibilities of a soldered joint gone dry, dirty pins on plugs, maybe even relays giving problems not to mention those indeterminate "gremlins" who like to live amongst the wires.
Left to me, I would pull the window lift ecu and give it a good looking at, even get the soldering iron out to redo some of the joints on the printed circuit board.
The normal failure point for the windows is probably the tube grommet between the door and the A post, and then a wire will go open, then the window will neither go up nor down. It's the ECU for my money.
 
My Haynes only shows 5 pin switches, but my car has 6 pins. so I couldnt use that - deffo wired differently too.

The 6th pin is only for the illumination of the front switches as shown clearly shown in the electric windows wiring diagram in the Haynes book, the one with the blue disco on the cover which I believe is the only copy.

Based on the diagram the front switches are basic, and just giving the information on which way the ecu should turn the motor. Both the rear switches have a direct connection to their motors.

So as you have issues with the front window and the wiring and switch are intact, then the ecu would be the first port of call. Simples :cool:
 
That's the next job - pull the ECU & have a play.

Will have to check my copies of Rave & Haynes. I might be back................

unless one of you kind peeps could post the Circuit Diag here??
 
As its 'Poets day' your in luck :cool:
 

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Yes the ECU stitches all four windows. Dry solder joints are a common fault.

I have a 2 door and the winds started fail8ng. I managed to source another ecu from a pal. This resolved the problem.

They are a bugger to get out, first you need to get the glove box out, then the are fixed in by 3 tiny nuts.

One method is to try expand the case and extract the circuit board leaving the case in situ but it's a pig. I just slotted the new unit in alongside and swapped the connectors over.
 
I have just bought a 96 300 tdi and it was suggested that the reason for the rear windows not working is due to dry solder joints on a panel in / behind the glove box? Easy fix supposedly? I have very limited mechanical experience, so apologies on advance 😕
 
I have just bought a 96 300 tdi and it was suggested that the reason for the rear windows not working is due to dry solder joints on a panel in / behind the glove box? Easy fix supposedly? I have very limited mechanical experience, so apologies on advance ��

Correct.

See post 12 :)
 
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